Ok, I'm fixed, my suspension is running.
Here is a rundown of what you want to do:
- Fixed the T connector (Schrader valve fill for tank), it was leaking air. (thats why I was getting red "dead suspension" logo, pump had to pump overime
- Checked relay K11 in fuse box 3 under hood (power coming in to pin 30A) if power comes in go to next buller point, if no power check 40 A fuse that sits on 12v battery fuse block (go back in forum to find the number of that fuse)
ALSO you can swap it with the other similar relay (I used the one that's on the far right, K11 is on far left)
- Check fuse f35 (25A) in fuse box 2 under hood.
NOW, SINCE ALL FUSES AND RELAYS are GOOD, all you have left to check is
- AIR PUMP
- VALVE BLOCK (hoses from air pump go to it)
To check your PUMP, at YOUR OWN RISK, pull K11 out and jump the contacs 30A and 87A with thickest wire possible, but paperclip will do for a second, don't use paperclip for long time - it will melt the plastic.
If the pump ran - it works, one less thing to buy.
VALVE BLOCK
Last thing you got to check is the valve controller that sits not too far from the pump, this one is a lot bit hard to check unless you want to splice wires, I would recommend to buy another one off eBay or even Tesla (if you have extra mulah laying around) and replace it (you will need to lift the car and replace it from the bottom)
Here is a rundown of what you want to do:
- Fixed the T connector (Schrader valve fill for tank), it was leaking air. (thats why I was getting red "dead suspension" logo, pump had to pump overime
- Checked relay K11 in fuse box 3 under hood (power coming in to pin 30A) if power comes in go to next buller point, if no power check 40 A fuse that sits on 12v battery fuse block (go back in forum to find the number of that fuse)
ALSO you can swap it with the other similar relay (I used the one that's on the far right, K11 is on far left)
- Check fuse f35 (25A) in fuse box 2 under hood.
NOW, SINCE ALL FUSES AND RELAYS are GOOD, all you have left to check is
- AIR PUMP
- VALVE BLOCK (hoses from air pump go to it)
To check your PUMP, at YOUR OWN RISK, pull K11 out and jump the contacs 30A and 87A with thickest wire possible, but paperclip will do for a second, don't use paperclip for long time - it will melt the plastic.
If the pump ran - it works, one less thing to buy.
VALVE BLOCK
Last thing you got to check is the valve controller that sits not too far from the pump, this one is a lot bit hard to check unless you want to splice wires, I would recommend to buy another one off eBay or even Tesla (if you have extra mulah laying around) and replace it (you will need to lift the car and replace it from the bottom)