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I was thinking about this over coffee. Anybody who is considering spending $400 for the Macsboost kit could DIY this for next to nothing. I need somebody to confirm the relationship between the spacer thickness and the camber, but I don't have a refresh X. If anybody is in the Bay area I'd be down to shim and measure the camber and toe values so we can share the data freely.

Some notes:
- Another member has already confirmed the $400 shims are off the shelf 2.9mm (approx 1/8").
- Factory hardware appears to be M12

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To do this at home you will need four M12 (metric, so the nominal diameter is 12mm) washers, approx thickness of 3mm; 1/8" is a close standard equivalent. A correctly sized washer will work in pinch.

If we can measure the factory arm's flange, I can draw a simple square part that others can customize for their desired thickness, if they want to hit a target alignment. There are plenty of shops that will mill these for you

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Quick mock up with a non-standard thickness that I priced through Xometry. I quoted laser cut 6061 below but other materials are available for an additional cost. Grade 5 Titanium will double the price...to a whopping $11.

If you are happy with the alignment from the 1/8" thickness there is no reason to have a spacer machined.

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Of course, the cost goes way down with volume and we can do cool things like anodize or powdercoat. There are also other manufacturing options available with volume.

If none of these options speak to you grab some 1/8" stock, a hacksaw, and a drill!
 
Thadeus Strong just posted in the Tesla Plaid Performance FB group. I hate camber and had planned to drive mostly in the low position, so I'm going for the "red race err" option:

Here we have an inexpensive and precise way to reduce camber in the rear suspension. These shims are CAD designed for easy install while maximizing contact surface with the factory parts. They are the CNC manufactured to strict tolerances from 6061 aluminum prior to being anodized for corrosion resistance and street cred.

Two options are available. As suspension height affects camber and relative geometry, the listed camber reductions are approximate.

•Silver street setup
$60 shipped intro price
Designed with factory height and mildly lowered cars in mind
Provide a .7 degree reduction in camber
Utilize factory bolts

•Red race errr….lowered AF setup
$85 shipped intro price
For slammed cars or anyone who hates camber
Provide a 1.5 degree reduction in camber
Utilize longer bolts which are included

These are great for DIY garage installations. But the toe will change, and you should get your car aligned afterwards.

All orders through PayPal please to [email protected] with a shipping address included

I ordered the red set, because I like running in the low position and hate camber (and tire wear).
 
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The best way to set toe is to actually measure, but most people are not willing to spend the time to do so. The Macboost instructions are not precise or repeatable either, they simply tell you to turn the adjuster 3/4 of a turn. The resulting toe adjustment is relative to the original alignment. Macboost makes the assumption the OEM toe is set from the factory.

Thanks. Now if we only knew which way to turn it. I've got a 50/50 chance of getting this right the first time.
 
Thanks. Now if we only knew which way to turn it. I've got a 50/50 chance of getting this right the first time.

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New Plaid owner, giving everyone launches and joy rides AND I ordered the thicker shims, which affect toe more and I'll want to install early so my tires last longer. :rolleyes:

One of the sponsors in a BMW forum said this about adding front camber:

"Adding -0.7* - -1.0*of camber up front will approximately change toe by 1/16th" to 3/64" outward."

... but we're talking about removing .7 or 1.4° camber on the rear wheels, so probably that causes toe-IN.

I figure now I'm at 90% chance of getting this right. I suspect a short trip after would be noticeable on the steering wheels, but on the rear?

I think making the alignment appt, then adding the shims 2 days prior would be the best bet.
 
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New Plaid owner, giving everyone launches and joy rides AND I ordered the thicker shims, which affect toe more and I'll want to install early so my tires last longer. :rolleyes:

One of the sponsors in a BMW forum said this about adding front camber:

"Adding -0.7* - -1.0*of camber up front will approximately change toe by 1/16th" to 3/64" outward."

... but we're talking about removing .7 or 1.4° camber on the rear wheels, so probably that causes toe-IN.

I figure now I'm at 90% chance of getting this right. I suspect a short trip after would be noticeable on the steering wheels, but oappt, then adding the shims 2 days prior would be the best bet.
toe is probably the most noticeable to a driver.
 
Are these shims for both the S and the X? My MSP has 10k miles and my tires are almost evenly worn. About 5.5-6.5/32" in the front and 6.5-7/32" in the rear. When brand new, these Michelin AS4 were 8-8.5/32". I'm going to get a set for my new MX but should I get one for my MSP too? The tires look great for now.
 
Just to confirm and make sense of this thread...

So any of these shim options are being placed between the sub-frame flat plate and the camber arms themselves correct?

Not just behind the bolt head which would only be pushing the bolt outwards but nothing else.

Sandwich view would be SUB FRAME>SHIM>CAMBER ARM>BOLT correct?
 
Just to confirm and make sense of this thread...

So any of these shim options are being placed between the sub-frame flat plate and the camber arms themselves correct?

Not just behind the bolt head which would only be pushing the bolt outwards but nothing else.

Sandwich view would be SUB FRAME>SHIM>CAMBER ARM>BOLT correct?

Yeah, that's correct. You can see how the shim will reposition the control arm.

Screenshot 2023-10-13 at 11.19.28 AM.png
 
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I am planning on getting these shims, but I am undecided on the thicker reds vs the thinner silver.

Thadeus suggested going with reds if I plan to always go on low on my MX LR 2023. I have asked this question before, and I did not get a good response. On the 2023 MX LR, is there even an option to stay medium on the suspension height? I see no option to change the default. If I set the suspension to medium, and I check it at different location (while parked) it seems to default to low again. So I do not see the point of Tesla even providing this option in the UI! Are these options only to temporarily change the suspension heights at different locations?
 
I am planning on getting these shims, but I am undecided on the thicker reds vs the thinner silver.

Thadeus suggested going with reds if I plan to always go on low on my MX LR 2023. I have asked this question before, and I did not get a good response. On the 2023 MX LR, is there even an option to stay medium on the suspension height? I see no option to change the default. If I set the suspension to medium, and I check it at different location (while parked) it seems to default to low again. So I do not see the point of Tesla even providing this option in the UI! Are these options only to temporarily change the suspension heights at different locations?

The only way to drive in any anything higher than medium is by replacing the physical ride height arm to trick the car.