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I was thinking about this over coffee. Anybody who is considering spending $400 for the Macsboost kit could DIY this for next to nothing. I need somebody to confirm the relationship between the spacer thickness and the camber, but I don't have a refresh X. If anybody is in the Bay area I'd be down to shim and measure the camber and toe values so we can share the data freely.

Some notes:
- Another member has already confirmed the $400 shims are off the shelf 2.9mm (approx 1/8").
- Factory hardware appears to be M12

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To do this at home you will need four M12 (metric, so the nominal diameter is 12mm) washers, approx thickness of 3mm; 1/8" is a close standard equivalent. A correctly sized washer will work in pinch.

If we can measure the factory arm's flange, I can draw a simple square part that others can customize for their desired thickness, if they want to hit a target alignment. There are plenty of shops that will mill these for you

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Quick mock up with a non-standard thickness that I priced through Xometry. I quoted laser cut 6061 below but other materials are available for an additional cost. Grade 5 Titanium will double the price...to a whopping $11.

If you are happy with the alignment from the 1/8" thickness there is no reason to have a spacer machined.

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Of course, the cost goes way down with volume and we can do cool things like anodize or powdercoat. There are also other manufacturing options available with volume.

If none of these options speak to you grab some 1/8" stock, a hacksaw, and a drill!
 
I'm confused. Why didn't they adjust the front caster to get everything green? I thought the meaning of green/red, was pass/fail. I had the same Hunter alignment sheets and everything was green when done, both times.
I'm not sure but he did say specifically that the caster #'s even though they were red were where I wanted them to be. I'm not professional, but just from the road feedback it feels significantly better
 
I'm not sure but he did say specifically that the caster #'s even though they were red were where I wanted them to be. I'm not professional, but just from the road feedback it feels significantly better
Good FYI explanation on caster and toe... sounds like the tech was just lazy IMO. 🤷‍♂️

My local American Tire center did my alignment recently. I had mild rear shims installed at the time, but I'm also lowered on N2ITIVE links and pending the fatter red shims soon.


 

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I'm confused. Why didn't they adjust the front caster to get everything green? I thought the meaning of green/red, was pass/fail. I had the same Hunter alignment sheets and everything was green when done, both times.

Lazy tech (you get what you pay for). That being said, caster is the least important value. You want it for the self centering effect and similar on both sides, but it's fine. I question whether the OP could actually tell the difference before/after the alignment

If you're interested in the correct process:
 
Looks like I got a good one! Everything feels so much better…my MSP is quieter, rolls better and really feels connected to the ground. It was super connected before, but I can definitely feel the difference.
Super stoked 😁View attachment 1049962

I checked out lifetime alignment online at my local Tires Plus, and was ready to sign up, then saw lots of bad reviews, mostly regarding service estimates. Then checked my local Firestone, which has been my go-to for mounting tires I purchased online (but nothing else), and they had a 4.1/5. So made an online appt for alignment Monday morning (Memorial Day) for lifetime alignment. Both Tires Plus & Firestone had similar wording and pricing. Even found a $10 off coupon I'll use.

The plan for this weekend is to add one turn to my rear lowering links, about 1 mm longer, currently maxed out low, then add 2 more shims (2.5 mm total) to the RR, then adjust the right toe CW 3/8 turn. I figure this should get me around -0.9° mm rear camber. I'll request they reduce my front camber closer to -0.9°, currently -1.2°. N2itive recommends -0.3° to -1.2° for front camber. I'd also like to see my rear toe lower this time.

Also want to install my UPP rear sway bar, and maybe my Hansshow power frunk. I also need to install precut PPF on my grill, but that keeps getting postponed.

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After everybody has posted their alignment specs, I think maybe one person had a decent "pro-tire life" readout. We're seeing a camber reduction, but toe is still aggressive. I think we're going to see people with visible inner tire wear, from toe, at around 6k miles. It'll be exaggerated if the owners can't rotate their tires. I posted this early on, but here's my X with ONLY an alignment. Note that the toe is less than what some of the owners are posting now.

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After everybody has posted their alignment specs, I think maybe one person had a decent "pro-tire life" readout. We're seeing a camber reduction, but toe is still aggressive. I think we're going to see people with visible inner tire wear, from toe, at around 6k miles. It'll be exaggerated if the owners can't rotate their tires. I posted this early on, but here's my X with ONLY an alignment. Note that the toe is less than what some of the owners are posting now.

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My current front and rear toe is similar to yours. N2itive recommends about half the rear toe we have.

N2itive recommended wheel alignment specs for the Tesla Model X:

Front Camber: -0.3° to -1.2°
Front Caster: 3.7° to 4.7°
Front Toe: 0.0° to 0.15°
Total Front Toe: 0.0° to 0.30°
Steer Ahead: -0.05° to 0.05°
Rear Camber: -0.50° to -0.65°
Rear Toe: 0.15° to 0.20°
Total Rear Toe: 0.15 to 0.20°
Thrust Angle: -0.10° to 0.10°
 
Just got back from Firestone and say I have mixed feelings. There was no pressure to go for the lifetime warranty, I had to ask for it. I brought in a $20 off coupon and was told they had a Memorial Day coupon for $40 off, did I want to use that? That's a no-brainer.

They finished in 50 minutes, which I found suspicious. My first alignment at OK Tire was supposed to take an hour, but took 90 minutes, probably from R&R of the underbelly covers. She went over the alignment results with me, and was told the right front camber was slightly out of spec, but she doubted that was cause a problem. I reminded her that I had asked to have it dropped to -0.9 when I came in. Then I said we can fix it next time, then had to ask for a copy. They keep the original for their records.

I'm pretty happy how the rear turned out. The rear toe is exactly where I wanted it. Last night at 9 pm, I was wondering if I should have added one more 1.25 mm shim to the both rears, which would have been a .2° decrease in rear camber. If I do that for next time, I might get worse results.

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Below is how it looked 2 weeks ago after alignment from OK tire. Since then I raised the rear about 5 mm (one turn of the lowering links, because they exceeded the max of 9 mm) and added 2.5 mm of shims to the RR and adjusted the toe on the right 1/3 turn CW. Raising the rear messed up the toe on the left, but there's a huge discrepancy between the front after the last alignment at OK Tire (below) and Firestone's before.

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Guess I'll leave a review and insist next time they spend more time on the front camber. Hate the B/W printout. So much easier to see red for the bad values.
 
Now that I have the shims and alignments done, I have began to drive more at very low.

The odd thing I noticed is that at highway speeds (80mph), if I set the height to very low, the road noise (or undercarriage wind noise) increases just so much that I cannot hear what the cartoons are talking about at the rear seat entertainment. It is so much so that even increasing the volume does not make it more audible, makes it just "too loud" (speakers in rear entertainment only mode). Active noise cancelling is not enabled. This discourages me from using very low when only rear entertainment is active.

Anyone else noticed something similar? My alignment was done at the low setting with rear toe ~0°05' on both sides and camber ~ negative 0°30.

From this I'm assuming the Low is better for range than Very low.