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Anyone Buy Modern Spare Tire Kit?

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I just stand mine up in front of the back seat so we have room for our oversized suitcases in the trunk.

Good idea. That works even with the back seats folded down, right? So it should help protect the front seat passengers from objects flying from the way-back, where Tesla chose not to include any cargo tie downs. They are high on my DIY list, which is why I asked Watts Up so many questions about extra holes in the trunk structure.
 
I had the seats up when I carried the spare behind drivers seat. Our suitcases were behind the seats in the trunk.
Trunk just not big enough for a spare in my case. Its perfect for two large roll around suitcases though.

With the back seat folded down, the spare won't fit behind the front seats. But, as you wrote, it seems to be fine with the back seats up. You could use light weight plastic chocks, good to have anyhow, to help it from rolling laterally.
 
Good point!
I once owned a 1974 Fiat 128SL, which had the spare mounted over the engine and as I recall, it was claimed to improve frontal crash protection. Keeping it from creaking over bumps was an ongoing challenge.

For the cargo-space-challenged Model 3, I half-seriously suggested a continental kit that attaches to a trailer hitch. Us old guys remember these from the fifties and before.
Continental tire - Wikipedia

Another way to mount a spare is to have it hoisted up from underneath. That method worked well in my CorV-8 (My first car with a Frunk),
CORV-8
it was applied in other cars with room underneath, like the Dodge Caravan. It also worked well on my open race car trailer.

If you lift out the load floor, you can put a Modern Spare (in or out of it's bag) vertically in the opening, kind of an internal continental kit. That also raises the maximum cargo height above the sub-trunk floor, which is a problem raised and solved by Watts_Up.

20200629_141956.jpg

Internal Continental Trial Fit. Removing load floor expands height to ~32", extending ~10" behind spare.

Building on this idea, a new, smaller load floor made of plywood would help to hold the tire in place, but could easily be lifted out to tilt the tire back for easier access to the forward part of the trunk, or you could get at it from the back seat. That plywood could also be used under the jack on squishy surfaces. The tire could also be mounted to the rear, giving more contiguous trunk space, but care would need to be taken so it clears the inside of the lid when closed. And it would block the emergency trunk release.
 
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I just stand mine up in front of the back seat so we have room for our oversized suitcases in the trunk.

Good idea. That works even with the back seats folded down, right? So it should help protect the front seat passengers from objects flying from the way-back, where Tesla chose not to include any cargo tie downs. They are high on my DIY list, which I why I asked
I thought the rear trunk cover was just a liner. How can there be more space under it?
I think he meant the load floor.
 
I thought the rear trunk cover was just a liner. How can there be more space under it?

Because of the central beam (see under the forearms of the person in the pic) the whole floor is raised about 3" above the car floor.

If this beam have been moved a little bit forward or if it had a rounded shape, a spare would had fit flat.

I wonder if this beam could have been located below the floor? This looks like an afterthought.

Does the Model S trunk, which has a more complex tailgate hatchback, has such a beam above the floor?

It would be very interested to look how the Model Y using Casting improved the trunk area.

screen-shot-2019-09-23-at-11-25-37-am-png.557818
 
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Modern Spare Story for TMC Part 2.

The Modern Spare kit for Tesla Model 3 is well-engineered, but can be improved. While the tools fit nicely in the case, the jack is too big to fit within the wheel. Part 1, posted here in the TMC thread “Anyone Buy Modern Spare Tire Kit?” on June 27, outlined a temporary solution. Here in Part 2, many ideas from TMC participants (Watts_Up, feathermerchan, AKinDC, ArcticStation, dfwatt, phtp and others) in this and other TMC threads are combined in a more permanent solution.

There are three separate subjects, each of which is useful on its own, some even without using Modern Spare. I decided to put them in separate posts because there are many pictures:
· Jack (this post)
· Cargo Tie-downs
· Modern Spare Integration

Jack
Based on comments elsewhere in TMC, the Modern Spare 2-ton jack may be too big because the kit was originally designed to use a slightly smaller 1.5 ton jack like this one suggested in an earlier post by Watts_Up:
https://www.amazon.com/LEAD-BRAND-Scissor-Capacity-Strength/dp/B07CZGTXYH/ref=sr_1_4?&tag=tmc064-20
At some point, Modern Spare kits came with a 1.5-ton jack the 2-ton jack was an option.

In my case, given the shipping damage, Modern Spare gave me a partial refund and I was allowed to keep the 2-ton jack. But it is heavy and would need to be stored separately from the wheel because the temporary solution in Part 1 is somewhat clunky.

I wanted a smaller, lighter jack that could fit within the Modern Spare wheel.
There is a TMC thread dedicated to jacks for Tesla Model 3:
The perfect Model 3 emergency jack?
This, along with other TMC posts in other threads, conclude that an old Porsche Aluminum Scissor Jack is a good solution. I found one from a 944 for $50, as shown in front of the 2-ton Modern Spare jack in J1.

20200702_205207J1.jpg

J1. Porsche 944 jack is ~1" shorter and ~1/2" lower than Modern Spare jack. And it weighs ~ 3 lbs vs 7.

The working load on the label is 900Kg (1984 lbs.), so I am limiting it to emergency road use, and only enough lift to get only the flat tire off the ground. I tried it with a ½” drive ratchet on my M3P rear and it worked well. Some synthetic grease on the screw helped make it smother. To get the left rear tire off the garage floor, it had to lift 77mm (3.03”). Earlier, in another thread about safety jacks:
MASTER THREAD: Jack Points — location, use, damage, pads, etc.
I had measured 2.8” lift on the front:
Condition......Distance from rocker cover to floor Lift
Jack barely touching lift point.......................6.3" 0”
LF tire just above floor; turns freely..............9.1" 2.8“ (71.1mm)
LR tire down to small contact patch............11.6" 5.3” (134.6mm)

For changing a flat, any lift beyond what it takes to make the inflated tire just clear the ground is un-necessary and takes weight off the other wheel on the same side, increasing the load on the jack. If you lifted both front and rear wheels clear of the ground from one jack point, the jack would be loaded to somewhere between 1/3 and ½ ? of the weight of the car, which is about the load capacity of this jack. The 911 jack shown in MASTER THREAD: Jack Points — location, use, damage, pads, etc.has 1000Kg working load, thus would be a bit safer.

The only modification of the Porsche jack was to re-shape the peg so it fits within Model 3 Lift Points, which BTW are also aluminum and attached to the main battery. A Starrett 1-1/8" hole saw without the ¼” pilot drill, in a drill press, took care of that nicely as shown in J2. There is a set screw in the Arbor, which makes it easy to remove the centering drill. The peg could also be shortened to facilitate properly inserting the jack when there is a completely flat tire. It is much easier, by feel without leaning down under the car, to properly locate than if the jack had no peg. And no puck is needed.

20200702_192005J2.jpg

J2. Porsche 944 jack locating peg is oblong, but a 1-1/8" hole saw, without pilot drill, neatly trims it down to ~1" diameter to fit Model 3 Lift Points.

J3. shows gray 3M traction tape, typically used on stair treads, which spreads the load and avoids scratching the jack points, while adding just ~1/32” of height.

20200702_194001J3.jpg

J3. Traction Tape added to jack platform

In order to firmly hold the jack inside the Modern Spare wheel, while protecting the hub mounting surface, I made a jack holder out of wood and aluminum scraps as shown in J4. and J5. J6. shows the jack held firmly in place with a 1” cam-lock nylon strap, modified for quick release, wrapped around the spokes. Although there is clearance between the inside of the wheel and the ends of the jack, further protection is provided by tennis balls as is common practice for trailer hitch balls.

An alternative to such a jack holder would be a custom foam plastic holder, typically used inside the spares of cars so equipped, including the donor Porsches. To make one, you might be able to protect the wheel with plastic bags, wrap the jack and other tools in plastic bags, locating them as desired, then inject expanding foam like that used for custom race car seats or for home insulation.

20200705_211829J4.jpg

J4. Jack holder, made from scraps of solar panel mounting rails.

20200705_211914J5.jpg

J5. Jack holder flipped over, showing wood plug made by 3" hole saw. Tape wrapped for a firm fit and gray traction tape protects wheel.

20200705_211644J6.jpg

J6. Porsche 944 jack ends protected by tennis balls, firmly strapped to wheel, avoiding rattles.

An adaptor, recommended in various TMC posts, makes it much easier to operate the jack than the small handle provided with Porsche jacks. And it allows use of a ratchet drive torque wrench that also works for the lug nuts, eliminating a tool. Shown in J7, I chose one made by Tonda. With washers selected to snuggly fill the gap, it is only necessary to hand-tighten the nut.
https://www.amazon.com/TONDA-Scissor-Adapter-Ratchet-Standard/dp/B0793PJBB6

20200707_112439J7.jpg

J7. Tonda adaptor allows torque wrench to drive the Porsche jack via 1/2" square or 21mm hex. Thicker washers for a firm fit and a shorter bolt were used.

Comments welcome. Cargo Tie Downs and Modern Spare Integration are covered in subsequent posts.
 
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Modern Spare Story for TMC Part 2- Continued.

Cargo Tie Downs.
Among the many features found in Saabs, Volvos, and other cars we have owned but missing from the Model 3 are cargo tie-downs in the trunk. Inspired by the interior pictures from Watts_Up, I found some convenient unused holes in the aluminum frame, accessible by removing the plastic panel that forms the sill across the bottom of the trunk opening. It mostly just unplugs, with the rear edge fitting under the rubber molding. Then there are two releasable fasteners holding the flexible fuzzy side panels. See C1.

20200705_205112C1.jpg

C1. Cargo Tie Downs made from 2 loops of parachute cord, through unused hole in Al. frame.

I have been avoiding drilling holes in my Tesla, but it was necessary to make a couple of holes in the plastic panel, as shown in C2. It can’t cost that much to replace, can it? C3 shows one application of these cargo tie downs to secure a Modern Spare case with a spare and Porsche jack in it, which BTW weighs about 41 Lbs. total.

20200710_000158C2.jpg

C2. Cargo Tie Downs Needed 1/2" Hole in plastic panel, 2" from bottom, ~1" from clip inside.

20200710_154448C3.jpg

C3. Cargo tie downs allow secure strapping to hold, e.g., Modern Spare in place.

Comments welcome. Modern Spare Integration is covered in a subsequent post.
 
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Modern Spare Story for TMC Part 2- Continued.

Modern Spare Integration
Unfortunately, the Modern Spare is too big to fit in the Frunk or entirely under the load floor of the trunk. Perhaps the bigger Model Y is better in this respect? Many alternatives for where to stick it have been shown in this thread, for example:
· Flat on the trunk floor (ArcticStation, KenC)
· Behind the front seats* (feathermerchan) I would also use chocks.
· Suspended from the rear shelf, flat* (phtp)
· Suspended from the rear shelf, angled* (Watts_Up)
· Flat on the back of folded-down rear seats*
· Continental style in the trunk basement*
* Also allow the trunk load floor to be removed for more vertical height.

Below, yet another method is proposed, with implementation details. Note that, depending on circumstances, one could easily shift to any of the methods listed above, or for local use as others have suggested, just leave it in the garage and have someone bring it if needed. The method is described mainly in the following photos with explanatory titles.

20200705_211447M1.jpg

M1. Trial fit of Modern Spare sans case, load floor removed.

20200705_211534M2.jpg

M2. Trial fit of Modern Spare sans case. Foam blocks..1" rigid sandwiched between 3/8" soft, keep tire just forward enough so trunk can close.

20200710_153040M3.jpg

M3. Spare in case (41 Lbs)* Tilted Upright, showing room for: Chocks, bottle of small parts, bag for flat*, safety vest**, gloves*, Craftsman ratcheting torque wrench, safety reflectors**, and room for much more.
*From Modern Spare.
** Included with Frugal Tesla Guy incentive.

20200710_164518M4.jpg

M4. Contents of small parts bottle (except rest of Astra socket set).

20200710_164538M5.jpg

M5. Astra sockets protect wheel. The 21mm one now travels with the Tesla.

20200710_154119M6.jpg

M6. Finished Modern Spare Mount.


20200710_154131M7.jpg

M7. Most of spare fits in the trunk's "basement", with load floor removed, maximizing remaining contiguous trunk space.


If I were doing this again, I would have ordered just the tire and wheel from Modern Spare. Someone mentioned that you can buy the case alone on eBay, or you could just omit it. It's a bit tricky to put the sticky tire in it anyhow. And my FedEx delivery adventure proved it is not waterproof. But it could be handy to kneel on as shown in the Frugal Tesla Guy video. I ended up not using the 2-ton jack. And because I included the Craftsman ratcheting torque wrench, I didn’t need it's ratcheting 19mm wrench nor the extensible breaker bar (which I have seen at WM for ~$20), nor it's double-sided sockets. The 21/22mm one does not fit in my new Martian wheels as noted in that TMC thread:
Martian Wheels MW03

Again, the cargo hold downs can be used for other purposes and it is easy to shift to most other methods of carrying the spare, depending upon circumstances. Thanks to everyone who contributed. Comments and questions are welcome.
 
Has anyone with a Modern Spare actually used the jack in the kit to remove an actual totally flat tire on the side of an unimproved road? All the videos I have seen show how to use it on hard dry pavement
to remove a good, fully inflated tire... not a valid test and not what I bough it for. The 4" tall jack they sell will fit with a full tire...but will it fit when the wheel drops 2 3/8" if your tire is toast and the rim is on the ground? I think it will be close but looking for proof from actual experience....not in the garage removing a good tire but with a totally flat rim-on-ground emergency like the one in the attached pic that self destructed at 70 mph. Believe it or not there was no damage to the rim. Thanks for your thoughts.
PIC 2 RR frame to ground with full tire.jpg
 

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Has anyone with a Modern Spare actually used the jack in the kit to remove an actual totally flat tire on the side of an unimproved road?
All the videos I have seen show how to use it on hard dry pavement
to remove a good, fully inflated tire... not a valid test and not what I bough it for.
The 4" tall jack they sell will fit with a full tire...but will it fit when the wheel drops 2 3/8" if your tire is toast and the rim is on the ground?
I think it will be close but looking for proof from actual experience....not in the garage removing a good tire
but with a totally flat rim-on-ground emergency like the one in the attached pic that self destructed at 70 mph.
Believe it or not there was no damage to the rim. Thanks for your thoughts.
Very Good point.

I honestly didn't try with a flat or shredded tire and you are right the rear jack point is quite low.

At home I don't have a low profile floor jack, so I always start lifting the car with a scissor jack at the front to move a little bit the car.

In the case of a shredded tire and if you have only one jack, you could put the damage wheel on top of some piece of wood to lift a little bit the car.

Note: I carry two scissors jacks inside my spare kit because:

- 1) with only one scissor jack, it is too painful to lift the car, it is more easy to make few turns of the handle of each jack at a time.

- 2) I also carry some (12" x 12") plywood that I put below the scissor jack to have a stable ground, in case of muddy location.
 
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Very Good point.

I honestly didn't try with a flat or shredded tire and you are right the rear jack point is quite low.

At home I don't have a low profile floor jack, so I always start lifting the car with a scissor jack at the front to move a little bit the car.

In the case of a shredded tire and if you have only one jack, you could put the damage wheel on top of some piece of wood to lift a little bit the car.

Note: I carry two scissors jacks inside my spare kit because:

- 1) with only one scissor jack, it is too painful to lift the car, it is more easy to make few turns of the handle of each jack at a time.

- 2) I also carry some (12" x 12") plywood that I put below the scissor jack to have a stable ground, in case of muddy location.
Watts Up, Your posts reflect the "emergency away from home" as well as the "home...no emergency" scenario. Very practical.
The plywood squares will come in handy...I keep 3 or 4 so I can stack them or use them separately as needed as in soft ground. I am impressed by the posters here in that they have lots of practical experience and are safety conscious as well. You can never have enough stuff when you are on the road.
 
Good point and solutions! I also carry some wooden blocks, Just in case. With 18" wheels, the problem is even worse because of the taller profile. The Porsche 944 jack is about an inch shorter than the Modern Spare jack, which helps.
 
Note that you can lift both tires from one side of the car too. I.e. if you can't fit the jack at the closest jack point, try the other one. Personally I hope I never need it either way!
Yes, I agree I would do that if that was my only option. Actually I learned that the other tire will start to be 'unloaded" when rotating tires one day on my Model 3. Some folks say this is ok and it is probably ok in an emergency. But I now have a solution in my post of 3/4/21.
Since the cars do in fact flex and the roof is glass, and the glass roof is glued on, I would not want to be the reason the adhesive starts to get stressed.
The jack points are located in the traditional places for a reason. Plus, it is a lot faster and easier lifting just the one problem wheel a little bit as opposed to lifting the entire side of the car, and lifting the good wheel 5 inches off the ground in order to get clearance to put on a spare. Lots of stress the car and I would rather not have.
But in an emergency I would do it if that was my only option.
This is what I bought to give me lots of room to put any jack under the car with a flat tire.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XPDKJN7/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I hope this suggestion is useful.