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At home for doing tire rotation I use a JEGS 80006 2 T. low-profile aluminum floor jack, the total weight is 50 lbs or 22 kg
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but for road emergency I carry the following jacks: (They fit nicely inside an older laptop bag with my lug wrench and torque wrench)
- To lift the front, I use an aluminium 1.5 T from an Audi TT, I added a hockey puck, the total weight is 3 lbs or 1.4 kg
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- To lift the rear, I use a metal 2 T scissor jack (mentioned above) I added a hockey puck, the total weight is 6 lbs or 3 kg
View attachment 425142 View attachment 425143
Note: I removed the existing rail support and fixed a hockey puck.
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I also carry two 12" x 12" pieces of plywood to put under the scissors jacks in case I am above muddy ground.
The Model 3 Dual motors weight distribution (front-rear) is 47% - 53%, so very similar but I noticed that lifting the front was easier.Why won't the smaller jack also work for the rear??
The Model 3 Dual motors weight distribution (front-rear) is 47% - 53%, so very similar but I noticed that lifting the front was easier.
I use two jacks to balance the car, so going back and force between the two jacks is easier than using only one jack.
However, those jacks are more for emergency, I would recommend using a floor jack otherwise.
I would recommend putting a larger piece of wood below each jack for better stability especially if you are park above dirt or mud.
Thank you for the information. I always secure the car with some extra cement blocks and pieces of wood in case a jack failed.I see. Seems logical. I also use floor jacks when at home. You might find this story interesting:
MASTER THREAD: Jack Points — location, use, damage, pads, etc.
I agree with you that the spare tire takes a lot of space,
This story shows how a M3 Modern Spare kit can be improved.
While the tools fit nicely in the bag, the jack is too big to fit inside the wheel.
I am exploring alternative jacks, some of which have been mentioned in this TMC Thread, that would also solve another problem:
The jack, roughly an inch or two too big, has to sit at an angle, thus forces the face of the bag upwards,
taking more precious trunk space than necessary.
Nice. Did you find any holes or studs where you could add cargo tie down d rings like Saabs and Volvos have?
I would like to avoid drilling holes while it is under warranty. How big are the holes you found? FYI, I used a well nut in an existing 16mm hole to add bag hooks in the trunk:There are some holes to put plastic rivets used to hold the floor and wall carpet.
But I think it would be simpler to select the locations corresponding to your needs
and plug some Rivet Nuts by making holes into the wheelhouse non structural metal sheet.
I would like to avoid drilling holes while it is under warranty.
Thank you for mentioning your previous posting, I was in fact thinking to include it.How big are the holes you found?
FYI, I used a well nut in an existing 16mm hole to add bag hooks in the trunk: DIY Rear Trunk Bag Hooks
I wonder what a spare would do for crash protection. Probably a larger crumple zone without one. If you designed the car to have one and it was removed, it could have a negative affect on crash protection.