Anyone charge on the standard 110V outlet ONLY?

[Cottonwood]

It is also possible to double your power by using an adapter that combines power from two different 120V legs in your house that are out of phase. See www.quick220.com If you have 15 amp breakers on the circuits, you would set the maximum charging current at 12 amps to avoid overheating your conductors and receptacles. This will give you 12 x 240 = 2880 watts as opposed to the 1440 you would get on 120V.

The problem is that the quick220 will not work on GFI outlets. 120 Volt GFI work by detecting differences between the Line and Neutral currents. The quick220 sends all the current from the Line in one outlet to the Line in the other, out-of-phase outlet. With no current down the neutrals, the GFI's pop immediately.

All new construction has all the outlets in the garage on GFI circuits. To make this work takes some long extension cords into the house in most situations; it's a hassle.

 

[Pruitt]

Wow, for 190 miles daily you will really need your HPWC. You ordered the dual chargers, right?

Yes I did.
The only worry now is the range reduction some folks are reporting in their batteries. I'll deal with that one when and if it happens to me.

 

[tezco]

The problem is that the quick220 will not work on GFI outlets. 120 Volt GFI work by detecting differences between the Line and Neutral currents. The quick220 sends all the current from the Line in one outlet to the Line in the other, out-of-phase outlet. With no current down the neutrals, the GFI's pop immediately.

All new construction has all the outlets in the garage on GFI circuits. To make this work takes some long extension cords into the house in most situations; it's a hassle.

The website does point this out; but the device may represent a decent temporary solution for a renter, or when visiting relatives or going out to that remote cabin.

One could make their own "combiner", but there is a potential safety issue if one of the 120V plugs of your DIY version is removed while the other remains plugged in. This version contains some interlocking circuitry to insure that the device only functions when all parameters line up correctly.

 

[Cosmacelf]

One could make their own "combiner", but there is a potential safety issue if one of the 120V plugs of your DIY version is removed while the other remains plugged in. This version contains some interlocking circuitry to insure that the device only functions when all parameters line up correctly.

Do not make your own combiner without using relays to cut power when only plug is plugged in. You are literally risking your life, or that of a curious toddler nearby.

 

[UberEV1]

Another reason for the OP to move away from the 120V solution is the charging inefficiency. As I recall from the Forum a while back, there was discussion of how inefficient it is to charge the car at 120V (line losses are greater and a higher percentage of the power used to manage the charging). Thus, while it may be an option for those with shorter commutes, the true net cost of the electricity may not be very attractive.

 

[EarlyAdopter]

The wall-to-battery efficiency is about the same for 120V vs 240V (about 85% - 88%). What kills efficiency for 120V is delaying the car going to sleep - the car systems all stay on while charging, to the tune of roughly 300W. This drops effective efficiency down to about 75%. Even worse if it's cold and the battery heater and circulation pumps have to run the whole time the car is charging.

That said, I've been doing just fine for nearly 2 years on 120V. But, my daily round-trip commute is only 20 miles, with an occasional 35 mile commute, and I charge in a garage. For anything longer, or outside charging in very cold weather, I'd advise a 240V 50A or 240V 30A circuit.