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AP Racing Radi-CAL Competition BBK

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At the end of the 2019 track season, I have started looking at upgrading my brake system to a setup that is track-focused and proven. Having researched the field on what is available and what is coming down the pipeline(MPP/StopTech), I decided to with a setup that is a full track without much consideration for the street. @RedwoodMotors was extremely helpful in discussing the three different AP Racing options available for Model 3. During the discussions, there was never any sense of pressure to make a sale, felt more like talking shop with a fellow gearhead. I appreciated that a lot.

I was using RB460 4pot 380x32mm, a street/track setup for most of 2019, this changed my perspective on what I want in my next BBK. AP Racing Radi-CAL Road & Track was briefly considered. However, having had RB460 street/track BBK, I didn't want to try another system that made any concessions for the street. Additional consideration of the overall weight of the brake system quickly eliminated the Road & Track version kit. So it was down to the two track only kits, Competition and Competition Plus. Both of these kit have the same 372x34mm 96 vanes J-hook rotors. The difference between the two is the caliper, specifically the width of the calipers. The Competition Plus version is designed for the endurance race, and it uses 25mm thick pads. Just to put that into perspective, the stock P3 red Brembo caliper pad is 15mm thick. The pad cost for 25mm is the same or slightly higher than the 18mm uses by Competition. The caliper of the Competition Plus (9668) is 402gram heavier than the Competition (9660), which means the entire setup is 804g heavier.
Here is a chart I created to track the weight of my brake system. I didn't include the weight of the brake pads in this chart.


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As you can see, there is a definite winner in this chart. The AP caliper is almost 50% lighter than the stock P caliper. Lightness benefits all aspects of driving. 1000g = 1kg = 2.2lbs

Impression:
Immediate, direct, and linear are the best objectives to describe the experience with AP Radi-CAL Competition KKB with Endless EX99 pads and Endless RF650 fluid. There is zero slack or delay between the pedal press and braking force. Conversely, the release of pedal results in an immediate release of the brake. No stickiness. Part of the directness feel attributes to the anti-knockback springs (AKBS) behind each of the pistons in the caliper. The force of the springs inside the 9660 calipers are 4lbs and 7lbs. In essence, pushes the pistons outwards slightly so the pad is grazing against the rotor. This functions to remove the gap between the rotor and the pads. The gap is inevitable in all rotor/caliper system as the flex of the brake system/suspension system during driving would knock the piston back into the caliper. You can read more about it AKBS and other technical research with 9660/9668 calipers at Essex website. - Essex Designed AP Racing Radi-CAL Competition Brake Kit (Front 9660/372mm)- Audi RS 3 (8V) | Essex Parts Services, Inc.

While the 9660 caliper is very light in weight, it is also super stiff. This stiffness is apparent in the linear translation of pedal travel to brake force. I had a chance to perform a few stops from 70mph+ to 10mph, 50mph to 10mph, the increase pedal travel from 70 to 50 is linear incremental. Compare to other systems I have experienced, where the pedal travel is less linear with the exponential amount of pedal travel with an increase in speed.

The location of the bleeder valves is another design differentiator on the AP 9660/9668. Both valves are on the inside half of the caliper, with one on top and one at the bottom. The typical caliper would have one valve on the top of each caliper halves. I suspect this will make maintenance easier, as I would only need to bleed the top valve for quick air bleed. While the bottom valve would be used for a full flush, being at the bottom will help flush out any solid particles in the system.

At the time of purchase, I did make one concession for NVH is to opt for the anti-squeal clips. The clips with Endless EX99 made this setup virtually silent for street driving aside from two specific situations. The first situation is when you apply brakes after you change motion from forward to reverse or vise versa. 9660/9668 calipers do not have tension springs that pinch the side edges of the pad. When the brakes are applied with the direction of motion different than last time when the brake is applied, this will cause the pads to shift a bit in the caliper and produce a single clack sound. The second situation is with the J-hook rotor. J-hook rotors are known for their ability to keep the pads clean. Unfortunately, the shape also produces a constant buzzing sound whenever there the pads are grazing the rotors while in motion, which is the case with AKBS installed. Without an engine to mask any noise, this buzzing sound is audible even with the windows closed, the sound increase in volume with speed increase. The constant buzzing sound is reminiscent of the saccade but without the ebb and flow of volume and pitch. However, but removing the AKBS, it pretty much eliminated the buzzing noise.

So far, I am very impressed with the AP Racing 9660 setup. Again, thanks to Redwood for helping with this setup. Can't wait to try it on the track.
 
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You can have any color, if its anodized grey. Brake fluid resistant.

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Lots of material removed without impacting strength.

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All the weight removal shows on the scale. This is almost 50% of the stock red Brembo caliper.

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Same weight removal is apparent in the bracket. Mr. Colin Chapman would approve of this.

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With anti-squeal clip installed.

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Great review. Thanks.

I wonder if you ever thought of measuring the weight of rotor discs themselves? All rotors made from the same grey cast iron alloy, so the weight of the rotor disc defines their heat capacity. And heat capacity is what you need to make sure you're not overshooting temp limit in a single brake application. Whole rotor weight is somewhat pointless since hats are very different.

AP is really good at weight saving. It's not rotational mass though, but unsprung one anyway. Not sure how much that difference is noticeable, though. But with a comparable price, it makes sense. Plus it looks cool :)

Directness and linearity - I'm not sure how caliper can be responsible for that. It sounds like the job of a pad. I doubt that there is an increased stiffness vs Brembo or RB. Especially with lower weight - removing weight is not keeping stiffness the same, it's just about finding places where removal hurts less.

If you're hitting limits of front brakes - the main question is how to increase heat dissipation.
And if heat dissipation will be solved - then you need to have enough heat capacity to not overshoot temps too much over equilibrium.

Looking at designs of rotors:
RB venting on the surface of the rotor helps to evacuate pad gas if you can't keep pads at proper temps.
Higher vane count of AP better for forced ventilation, while RB is better for free flow.
The closed hat design of AP also clearly targets ducting.

I have a feeling that next, you're going to upgrade rotors to larger ones.
Do you have ducting already?

And my understanding that you ended up removing AKBS?
 
Is the AKBS something one could easily install / take off the brake system for track days?

or integrated enough where not something to take on/off often
How much do you like to rebuild brake caliper? That’s what is required to remove and install the AKBS.

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Need to remove each piston to access AKBS for each piston. Pistons required +80psi of air pressure to pop off, but try to do that when there is six of them takes some planning.

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My initial installation was with AKBS in place. Couldn’t stand the noise efficiency hit of constant pad drag (10~15%). So I removed the caliper and removed AKBS. Fun times with brake fluid. :mad:
 
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Nice write up @beastmode13 let's see some pics on the car! All this info really makes me want to go out and buy a set, even though as I said before I don't think I need it. Do you know if this system will work with the base model rear caliper like in my P3D-?

I don’t see why it won’t work with any 3. All 3 rear caliper are of the same single piston sliding caliper design with identical piston size. The P+ caliper body is casted aluminum by Brembo, while standard caliper is casted steel by Mando. It will probably look better on your car since the calipers are all grey. @RedwoodMotors test mule is a P3D-, you can check with them as well.

Will post car photos in my build thread.
 
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@beastmode13 what was your primary goal with purchasing the AKBS then? You mentioned not wanting any street compromise, but still ended up removing it. Any idea on how much having it truly helps?
There is more than AKBS in 9660 kit.
It's 3lbs (30%) lighter than 9561 or stock caliper while still 6 piston design as 9561 with probably unnoticeable rigidity loss penalty.
Rotors also 7lbs lighter (certainly, due to lower heat capacity) than 9561.

Plus, if you are ok to rework calipers and have to go to track - it's easier than scrapping melted dust boots since it doesn't have them.
 
@beastmode13 what was your primary goal with purchasing the AKBS then? You mentioned not wanting any street compromise, but still ended up removing it. Any idea on how much having it truly helps?
The 9660 caliper comes with AKBS already fitted from the factory as it's a competition caliper. It's not an optional extra you fit after you get them.

This is also why they are only available in one colour. They are in AP's 'race' range rather than the 'performance' range, which is aimed more for street use.
 
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@beastmode13 what was your primary goal with purchasing the AKBS then? You mentioned not wanting any street compromise, but still ended up removing it. Any idea on how much having it truly helps?

With AKBS in place, there is zero slack between pedal movement to braking power. You get immediate and direct braking response with AKBS. The feel is amazing. If I were building a full race car, AKBS is a must, now I have experience it. I did my research knowing the AKBS could be removed, or change the spring tension. It provide me with the option to tweak to system to the way I want, vs. being capped by street/track offerings that does not have the option. It’s like paying for PUP so I have access to the highest level of performance possible on Model 3. Not like I use the track mode on street, but it’s great option on the track.

The noise part was an unknown to anyone. @MasterC17 and I are probably one of the first EV using it, or at least publicly sharing our experiences. With ICE the engine noise will mask it, so it is not a problem for them. The noise might subside more miles on the rotors? At least that’s a theory. With the stay at home order and no track day insight, it might be awhile before The theory is put to the test.
 
With AKBS in place, there is zero slack between pedal movement to braking power. You get immediate and direct braking response with AKBS. The feel is amazing. If I were building a full race car, AKBS is a must, now I have experience it. I did my research knowing the AKBS could be removed, or change the spring tension. It provide me with the option to tweak to system to the way I want, vs. being capped by street/track offerings that does not have the option. It’s like paying for PUP so I have access to the highest level of performance possible on Model 3. Not like I use the track mode on street, but it’s great option on the track.

The noise part was an unknown to anyone. @MasterC17 and I are probably one of the first EV using it, or at least publicly sharing our experiences. With ICE the engine noise will mask it, so it is not a problem for them. The noise might subside more miles on the rotors? At least that’s a theory. With the stay at home order and no track day insight, it might be awhile before The theory is put to the test.

I wonder how much the J slots are a factor? Would cross drilled or slotted be less noisy?
I'm going to AP route myself, so this is all useful information but my car has to remain comfortable for road use, which means NVH is a factor so I'd already decided the springs probably weren't a good idea.
I suspect a little knock-back isn't going to outweight the improvements this sort of set up gives at the track.

You've always got the racing option of just giving the brake pedal a little prod with your left foot before you get to the braking point. ;)
 
I wonder how much the J slots are a factor? Would cross drilled or slotted be less noisy?
I'm going to AP route myself, so this is all useful information but my car has to remain comfortable for road use, which means NVH is a factor so I'd already decided the springs probably weren't a good idea.
I suspect a little knock-back isn't going to outweight the improvements this sort of set up gives at the track.

You've always got the racing option of just giving the brake pedal a little prod with your left foot before you get to the braking point. ;)

NVH may also have something to do with the pads. @beastmode13 and I are running different pads. I really haven't found the pad noise to be annoying now that I've put a few hundred miles on the car. There's a little bit of rotational grinding noticeable below 5mph, but otherwise I haven't noticed anything with the windows up.
 
Thoughts on how they will hold up to rust? No dust boots doesn't bother me, but I wonder how much maintenance would be required for someone who drives 12k miles a year and through some level of rain.

Wonder how the pads would hold up to that level of normal driving with AKBS or if I should just resign myself to getting the road and track kit.

Other than weight, did you see any major disadvantage to the road and track vs competition?
 
I wonder how much the J slots are a factor? Would cross drilled or slotted be less noisy?
;)

NVH may also have something to do with the pads. @beastmode13 and I are running different pads. I really haven't found the pad noise to be annoying now that I've put a few hundred miles on the car. There's a little bit of rotational grinding noticeable below 5mph, but otherwise I haven't noticed anything with the windows up.

All rotors will have noise, even a featureless smooth rotor. Just how much. When I was on RB BBK, the slotted rotor made noises as well, just not as much as the J-hooks. @MasterC17 Any initial observation on efficiency hit?
 
Thoughts on how they will hold up to rust? No dust boots doesn't bother me, but I wonder how much maintenance would be required for someone who drives 12k miles a year and through some level of rain.
My experience without dust boots that you need to wash and change a lube on pistons 1-2 times a year.
There is a risk of something hard to get stuck and scratch it - then you would need a new piston.
But I never had such a case with stainless pistons. Oh, right, they don't rust.

But if tracking once a year with a reasonable amount of cool down laps - I don't see a point in comp kit.
To be honest, there is no reason to do any brake kit upgrade. Just change pads and fluid.
Stock stuff is not bad and you're not really going to be able to see any difference outside of the track.
 
My experience without dust boots that you need to wash and change a lube on pistons 1-2 times a year.
There is a risk of something hard to get stuck and scratch it - then you would need a new piston.
But I never had such a case with stainless pistons. Oh, right, they don't rust.

But if tracking once a year with a reasonable amount of cool down laps - I don't see a point in comp kit.
To be honest, there is no reason to do any brake kit upgrade. Just change pads and fluid.
Stock stuff is not bad and you're not really going to be able to see any difference outside of the track.

Oh I plan on tracking more than once a year for sure, I just also use the car as my daily driver =)

I already am installing MCS coilovers + MPP front control arms + SPL rear links + Eibach sways. Running upgraded fluid but just RB XT910 for now (since mostly do autocross the moment)

just planning for what's the best option once I do more road course.
 
@MasterC17 Any initial observation on efficiency hit?

I don't have any good comparisons right now. 70f, averaging 50mph, HVAC on, on the 265 Federal's I averaged about 330wh/Mi. The problem is, I don't usually drive on the street with these tires, so I can't say for sure whether that is worse or not lol! I need to see if the 18" MXM4's will fit so I can do a better comparison.

To be honest, there is no reason to do any brake kit upgrade. Just change pads and fluid.
Stock stuff is not bad and you're not really going to be able to see any difference outside of the track.

Err, I wouldn't really say that. Again, I ran pads, fluid, and rotors and my brakes went bye-bye in T1 at VIR after 2 hard laps. That's running 200tw tires. If you moved to an R-Comp or a Slick you would have a bad time on stock calipers.