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Attempting to Repair Front Collision Salvaged Tesla

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The housing is missing (melted on the old airbag). The pins style should be identical to the red connector (I would imagine). I do agree though, the connector seems damaged and is most likely the cause.



Evidently, a good indicator of whether the SRS airbag module is reset and good, is for the airbag light to go off once the car starts, at which point it checks if faults exist, if so, the light comes back on, otherwise it stays off.

Another way to check of the SRS airbag module is reset and good, is to buckle the seat belt, and if the seatbelt light goes off, then the SRS airbag module is operating properly.
Did your light go away? It is most certainly the melted plug.
 
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I haven’t tried putting the air suspension module back in yet; I’m waiting until I resolve the SRS issue first.

Was the air suspension working before you disconnected it?

Where are you on the airbags and SRS module?
 
I haven’t tried putting the air suspension module back in yet; I’m waiting until I resolve the SRS issue first.

Was the air suspension working before you disconnected it?

Where are you on the airbags and SRS module?


I had no issues with the air suspension before and now it is locked in very high and won't adjust and when you try to adjust it says it needs service. I may try to just disconnect power and see if it reboots and fixes itself.

As far as the SRS thats completely fine. My car had side damage on passenger side. Both curtain airbags and drivers seat airbag blew. I replaced those and the seatbelt and SRS module was sent to safety restore. I put it all back together today and the airbag light is out but now this darn air suspension.

Looking in the service manual it says that whenever the air suspension module is taken out it requires a calibration which then requires you use "toolbox" and I don't have root access to the car so not sure how I will get that done.
 
Congrats on the SRS! Was this your first time doing it?

I asked a friend about the air suspension module, and he said you shouldn’t have to calibrate it with the toolbox. I’m wondering however, did mount it properly on the back of that plastic shroud?
 
Hey there! Did you finished your car yet? I was following your theard from the first day and registered now specially to aks you if your done or have some news for us! Best Regards

My apologies for the long delay! Here is the latest update:

The car is finished! I was able to fix the SRS light by replacing the damaged yellow pigtail connector. I also re-installed the air suspension module without any issues. By that point, the only error I had remaining was the "Park Assist Disabled" message. To resolve this, I installed the parking sensors and simply attached the front bumper wiring harness. That was it; NO MORE ERROR MESSAGES!

I passed the state safety inspection a couple days ago and received my permanent tags! :)

The next step is some minor body work...stay tuned for some photos of the final product!
 
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My apologies for the long delay! Here is the latest update:

The car is finished! I was able to fix the SRS light by replacing the damaged yellow pigtail connector. I also re-installed the air suspension module without any issues. By that point, the only error I had remaining was the "Park Assist Disabled" message. To resolve this, I installed the parking sensors and simply attached the front bumper wiring harness. That was it; NO MORE ERROR MESSAGES!

I passed the state safety inspection a couple days ago and received my permanent tags! :)

The next step is some minor body work...stay tuned for some photos of the final product!

Thanks for the update! I was starting to worry if you totaled it again!
 
Sorry, I haven't had a chance to report my progress, it's been an exciting couple days :)

So, the funniest thing happened...after swapping out the pyrofuse, I went out to the car the next day to get ready to disconnect the battery in order to trickle charge it. However, before I could do so, the door handles presented themselves! I couldn't believe it! So I immediately grabbed my multimeter and checked the voltage of the battery and it was reading 14V!!! The main battery pack had charged the 14V battery overnight!

I was so excited that I decided it was time to go beyond my driveway. So, I took the car for a spin in the neighborhood and it drove flawlessly!

What's even more amazing, I got a software update and installed it without a problem!

Next steps:
- Charge car using Tesla Wall Charger
- Install hood/bumper/headlight/grill/airbags/seat belts
- Reset Airbag ECU
- State Salvage Inspection
- Title Registration & Tags


How did you get a software update? Online somewhere?
 
It's been a fun year owning this car. I had absolutely no prior experience working on cars, let alone a Tesla. Despite the knowledge gap, I rebuilt and registered the car after 1.5 months; I suppose this is a testament to Tesla Engineering and how easy it is to work on these cars. Although, I should caveat and preface by saying it's only easy if you pick a car with minimal damages to begin with.

Over the past year, a lot has changed. Tesla has grown exponentially and many salvaged/rebuilt title owners have felt the growing pains first hand. Although, I must admit, the road is starting to look quite promising for salvaged owners.

First, the car, before it all started:
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The car now:
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My experience was quite unique. After purchasing the car, I started to notice I was getting over-the-air (OTA) updates which seemed very odd. By that point, I ordered what I could from ebay. It's important to note that ordering body parts from ebay is almost always going to result in < 100% quality (chips/dents/etc). Unfortunately, I had no other choice. I was able to pass state inspection, register the car, and even travel on a 14hr road trip. Which brings me to my second point, I was able to supercharge just fine! So I started to really question whether my car was actually "unsupported" in the eyes of Tesla. So, one day, I call up my local service center to inquire about parts and lo and behold, my VIN was showing up as supported! This meant I could buy parts! This rarely happens, but I was one of the lucky few.

So I purchased a new bumper cover, wiring harness, hood, you name it! And believe it not, the prices were tremendously cheaper than anywhere else, including ebay.

All was well, in fact, great! I had a P85+ (125k sticker price) for 30k+. And, it was supercharging and showing as supported by Tesla! Couldn't ask for more! Although, like all great things, they must eventually come to an end :)

To make a long story short, while servicing my car at Tesla, corporate notified the SC of the car's status and they turned off supercharging without telling me, which is a separate story in it of itself. They told me the car was unsupported and that I could pay $10k+ to "redeem" the car as to allow Tesla to continue to service it, although even after redemption, the warranty would still be void.

Fast-forward almost a year, Tesla has changed their policy 180 degrees towards Salvaged/Unsupported cars. As of right now, anyone can buy parts for their car despite status (supported/unsupported) so long as the vehicle is linked to your account or you can show proof of ownership. Secondly, Tesla will service your unsupported car so long as the repair or service request is NOT related to the HV system. If it is, you will have to pay for an HV inspection (I'm still gathering info on how much it costs) to ensure the car is safe for technicians to work on. I've also heard once it passes the HV inspection that supercharging can be turned on again, although a difference SC representative told me it's disabled forever, which is consistent with their legal terms: Privacy & Legal | Tesla

So, would I do it again, absolutely! In fact, I'll make a follow-up post for my next project. However, what is my recommendation for interested folks thinking of pursuing this route? Well, I'll tell you: Don't do it. In the end, you may not be saving all that much. The time, hassle, frustration, and car's unsupported status does not outweigh the peace-of-mind of purchasing an in-warranty CPO at a slightly higher price. In fact, even purchasing the base model 3 at 35k would be much better; the motors are significantly more superior, battery pack tech is better, AP2 Hardware, etc.. So my advice is save yourself the trouble by paying a bit more and getting a CPO now, or holding off for the base Model 3.

Thanks for everyone who followed this thread and provided support and guidance.
 
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