Audiophiles w/ Model 3's

[groovyd]

For what style music? Hip Hop is abysmal with less than 8db low end boost. However then it's way too boomy for rock etc. Anyone know what frequency the ported woofer box is tuned for?

I think a higher powered 10" sub in a sealed box would be a huge improvement and require less futzing with the EQ.

I listen to pretty much everything and so I think my light correction is a compromise to achieve relative 'flatness' across the spectrum suitable for any kind of music but maybe not the best for any one in particular. I use Sonarworks speaker and headphones correction to 0.9db of flat at home and at least to my ears this 1db boost to the second bass band and the rest left untouched seems to approximate the reference response I get at home with the exception that total bandwidth is compressed in the Tesla. The lows don't go as low and the highs don't go as high but aren't necessarily uneven if that makes sense, just relatively muddy or distorted at the extremes. Hoping the Infinity 4" drivers will help extend the highs and tighten up the mids through midbass a little. In my impression the spectral balance isn't necessarily needing correction as much as extension and better dampening (lower distortion).

 

[Glamisduner]

I listen to pretty much everything and so I think my light correction is a compromise to achieve relative 'flatness' across the spectrum suitable for any kind of music but maybe not the best for any one in particular. I use Sonarworks speaker and headphones correction to 0.9db of flat at home and at least to my ears this 1db boost to the second bass band and the rest left untouched seems to approximate the reference response I get at home with the exception that total bandwidth is compressed in the Tesla. The lows don't go as low and the highs don't go as high but aren't necessarily uneven if that makes sense, just relatively muddy or distorted at the extremes. Hoping the Infinity 4" drivers will help extend the highs and tighten up the mids through midbass a little. In my impression the spectral balance isn't necessarily needing correction as much as extension and better dampening (lower distortion).

If it works for you then keep doing it. I find music in the 3 sounds flat without any adjustments, or just minor ones but I don't listen to much vocal forward music. And when I have turned down the lower frequency then put on hip hop it sounds like a very budget system as the low frequencies are completely missing at all but the highest levels, so you have to turn up the stereo all the way to heat them which then makes everything else unbalanced. However if I was listening to Jazz the low frequency boos might be unwelcome, and it's a little boomy for some rock. Then you go to audio books and get a reader with a boomy voice and to correct that you have to drop the lower frequencies to basically nothing. Mostly I'm using slacker radio for ease of use even though the SQ is garbage to begin with.

I'd be interested to see how someone tapped into the stock system to add a sub-woofer and / or better amps for the front speakers. Also curious where to mount such amps in the model 3.

 

[dfwatt]

I've done all four rear doors on our two cars. Boy it was a breeze except for getting the Clips off. It took 50 60 lb of pull on one door to get the clips to come off. I was really concerned they were going to break but they're pretty sturdy. Second removal is way easier probably because the clip holder expands bit. Shout out again and thanks to flashfloodER.

Couldn't be more pleased with the Noico sound dampening material. It sticks like crazy and the Quilted outer aluminum layer is perfect for figuring out what you haven't really rolled down tight yet. Plus the aluminum is thin enough that it doesn't cut your fingers but thick enough so that it's durable. The stuff also can be rolled and some very odd shapes and to cover geometrically very strange surfaces. It took about an hour to do each door and each door was done a little bit better than the previous one. All the doors now shut with a very satisfying thunk. I went back and redid the first door applying what I had learned. I highly recommend that people with even minimal mechanical skills do this themselves. It's really worth it. Next on the hit-list is the front doors and then the rear package shelf and then the trunk. View attachment 368858

I just finished one of the front doors. Unfortunately I put the cover back on before I could remember to take a picture. Getting the door panel off itself was not as difficult as getting it back on properly. It did take an enormous amount of pull to break out some of those clips from their holders but it's just three torx screws and then a bunch of Clips. More on those clips later. In any case the front door represented a motherload of opportunities and the degree of panel resonance from the front 8in woofer was impressive. Just about everything in the door is resonating from that woofer. So here's what I did:
1) put Noico compound on every accessible bare metal surface.
2) put Noico dampening compound on the inner plastic shell that contains all the electrical items including the window motor. It was really vibrating in sympathy with the woofer very heavily. This despite the fact that there is a layer of dampening material between this and the metal shell of the door itself. The plastic material itself does not appear to be exceptionally resonant but the output from the woofer is powerful enough that it sets this inner plastic material into potent resonance. So I covered just about every available square inch
3) heavily Dyna matted the woofer basket/ mounting bracket in the door itself as much as I could.

I was a bit paranoid about all this going back together with this much Dynamat material as I had put in there. And as it turned out I was right to be a bit paranoid because there was a clearance issue on getting woofer into its plastic secondary shell on the door cover. Next time I will Dynamat that woofer bracket differently. I also managed to break three of the door Clips. This was simply because I really hadn't lined stuff up carefully enough and the clips will fracture if they are pushed hard and have no place to go. Conclusion - the front doors offer much more opportunity for reduction of panel resonances than the rear doors given that the rear driver has almost no low frequency output. In fact it doesn't have a lot of output in general seems to be more of a 'fill' driver. Additionally the extra size of the front door cover means that you have to pay careful attention to alignment as you are putting the system back together and a one half centimeter alignment problem or perhaps even less than that will cause you to break off the mounting clips. Given how much the door panel flexes due to its significantly longer size, this is all too easy.

I'll post some pictures of the next front door that I do so guys can see exactly what I covered and what I didn't. I would estimate that I spent easily twice as long doing the front door on one of our cars as I spent on each rear door. That's due to the extra area and the fact that you have to make so many small piece cuts. In general I would say this is not an operation you want to rush. If you decide to do this by all means take your time. You also need to compress the dampening compound very heavily to get it to maximally adhere, even though the surfaces themselves are clean and free of Grease so far anyway.

 

[cooper8168]

I can spend up to $4k a set of powered speakers but I prefer to not be too far off on the optimal diminishing returns curve. I do most listening at a desk but I would prefer speakers that I can later use in another application (in living room) for example. My 15 year old Mackie HR824s have been keeping me happy but I'd like to see what I may be missing with an upgrade.

I don't do any mixing or sound production, I just generally prefer a clear flat frequency response for listening.

Excuse my poor editing in that last post.

Seeing as we're obviously not afraid of radical new technology, another one I should have mentioned is the speakers I have in my home: the Devialet Phantom.

I have the Premier Golds, which are past your price point, but the Reactor line, and the Premier Classics and Silvers are also incredible and fit within your budget. The Premier Golds are the best-sounding speakers I've heard up to the $60k ATC and B&W systems I have in my studio, but for about 1/10th the price. Per channel, they deliver 4500w peak, 108db SPL (with zero distortion) and with a 14hz to 27Khz frequency response. That's almost identical to the B&W flagship 800 D3 that I've recorded on for years. All that, and they are shockingly tiny with zero body resonance, so they can be placed on a desk without fear of shaking it apart with their stellar bass response.

There are some quirks to be aware of with these, however (they're French after all, what do you expect?). I will explain in further detail if these look interesting.

I'm kidding about the French comment. But not really.

(BTW, for those of you discussing your perceived lack of low end in the Model 3, I urge you to demo a pair of Premier Golds so you can hear and establish a reference of what your favorite mixes are supposed to sound like. With that reference in mind, I think you'll be surprised at what the Model 3 system is accomplishing on its own)

 

[jkcheng122]

I just want to add, with all the input here, that this thread is awesome.

 

[paranoidroid]

I listen to pretty much everything and so I think my light correction is a compromise to achieve relative 'flatness' across the spectrum suitable for any kind of music but maybe not the best for any one in particular. I use Sonarworks speaker and headphones correction to 0.9db of flat at home and at least to my ears this 1db boost to the second bass band and the rest left untouched seems to approximate the reference response I get at home with the exception that total bandwidth is compressed in the Tesla. The lows don't go as low and the highs don't go as high but aren't necessarily uneven if that makes sense, just relatively muddy or distorted at the extremes. Hoping the Infinity 4" drivers will help extend the highs and tighten up the mids through midbass a little. In my impression the spectral balance isn't necessarily needing correction as much as extension and better dampening (lower distortion).

I use Sonarworks for my headphones too (Focal Utopia, which are great but need the correction). That and with some reference studio monitors I have a decent idea of what neutral should sound like (which I prefer since I listen to a wide variety of music). I agree with those saying the Model 3 needs minimal EQ (I mostly prefer a touch of boost on the high end as cooper8168 suggests) and any large EQ adjustments may be fine for taste only, but do hurt the neutrality of the system (not to mention phasing issues).

 

[dfwatt]

I just finished one of the front doors. Unfortunately I put the cover back on before I could remember to take a picture. Getting the door panel off itself was not as difficult as getting it back on properly. It did take an enormous amount of pull to break out some of those clips from their holders but it's just three torx screws and then a bunch of Clips. More on those clips later. In any case the front door represented a motherload of opportunities and the degree of panel resonance from the front 8in woofer was impressive. Just about everything in the door is resonating from that woofer. So here's what I did:
1) put Noico compound on every accessible bare metal surface.
2) put Noico dampening compound on the inner plastic shell that contains all the electrical items including the window motor. It was really vibrating in sympathy with the woofer very heavily. This despite the fact that there is a layer of dampening material between this and the metal shell of the door itself. The plastic material itself does not appear to be exceptionally resonant but the output from the woofer is powerful enough that it sets this inner plastic material into potent resonance. So I covered just about every available square inch
3) heavily Dyna matted the woofer basket/ mounting bracket in the door itself as much as I could.

I was a bit paranoid about all this going back together with this much Dynamat material as I had put in there. And as it turned out I was right to be a bit paranoid because there was a clearance issue on getting woofer into its plastic secondary shell on the door cover. Next time I will Dynamat that woofer bracket differently. I also managed to break three of the door Clips. This was simply because I really hadn't lined stuff up carefully enough and the clips will fracture if they are pushed hard and have no place to go. Conclusion - the front doors offer much more opportunity for reduction of panel resonances than the rear doors given that the rear driver has almost no low frequency output. In fact it doesn't have a lot of output in general seems to be more of a 'fill' driver. Additionally the extra size of the front door cover means that you have to pay careful attention to alignment as you are putting the system back together and a one half centimeter alignment problem or perhaps even less than that will cause you to break off the mounting clips. Given how much the door panel flexes due to its significantly longer size, this is all too easy.

I'll post some pictures of the next front door that I do so guys can see exactly what I covered and what I didn't. I would estimate that I spent easily twice as long doing the front door on one of our cars as I spent on each rear door. That's due to the extra area and the fact that you have to make so many small piece cuts. In general I would say this is not an operation you want to rush. If you decide to do this by all means take your time. You also need to compress the dampening compound very heavily to get it to maximally adhere, even though the surfaces themselves are clean and free of Grease so far anyway.

Second front door went better and more smoothly. No busted Clips as I was super careful about alignment before trying to compress the door after installation. I was pretty obsessive so it took me almost three hours and 10 minutes to finish. It's worth it because the door now shuts much more quietly and whereas there was a distinct rattle if you shut the door with the window open now it's just a solid thunk window up or window down. That front woofer still vibrates the inner door significantly but at least I've killed I would estimate at least 50% of the internal panel resonance. Very satisfying.

As hard as this was I know this was the easy job compared to the interior floors and wheel wells. That's where you really get the payoff in terms of road noise. In that second picture you can see how I cut individual notches in the dampening compound instead of placing them over the ribs on the woofer mounting. That extra bit of dampening Compound on the ribs made it much tighter in terms of reinstalling the door. So I would recommend avoiding that. Just cut individual slices that can go on the non ribbed areas of the woofer mounting plate. That mounting plate resonates like a son of a b**** so getting damping and compound on that is really critical.

 

[groovyd]

I use Sonarworks for my headphones too (Focal Utopia, which are great but need the correction). That and with some reference studio monitors I have a decent idea of what neutral should sound like (which I prefer since I listen to a wide variety of music). I agree with those saying the Model 3 needs minimal EQ (I mostly prefer a touch of boost on the high end as cooper8168 suggests) and any large EQ adjustments may be fine for taste only, but do hurt the neutrality of the system (not to mention phasing issues).

Totally agree the highs need a slight boost but I don't push it on the EQ because I think it isn't fundamentally an EQ issue as much as a limitation of the driver. Boosting it to achieve neutral would only increase distortion (sibilance). I am hoping the 4" infinities and replaced tweeter will fill it in more natively.

 

[groovyd]

If it works for you then keep doing it. I find music in the 3 sounds flat without any adjustments, or just minor ones but I don't listen to much vocal forward music. And when I have turned down the lower frequency then put on hip hop it sounds like a very budget system as the low frequencies are completely missing at all but the highest levels, so you have to turn up the stereo all the way to heat them which then makes everything else unbalanced. However if I was listening to Jazz the low frequency boos might be unwelcome, and it's a little boomy for some rock. Then you go to audio books and get a reader with a boomy voice and to correct that you have to drop the lower frequencies to basically nothing. Mostly I'm using slacker radio for ease of use even though the SQ is garbage to begin with.

I'd be interested to see how someone tapped into the stock system to add a sub-woofer and / or better amps for the front speakers. Also curious where to mount such amps in the model 3.

I hear the deficiencies but have decided that trying to compensate for them via EQ increases distortion since the drivers are the limitation. Really hoping the speaker replacements correct this.

 

[groovyd]

Second front door went better and more smoothly. No busted Clips as I was super careful about alignment before trying to compress the door after installation. I was pretty obsessive so it took me almost three hours and 10 minutes to finish. It's worth it because the door now shuts much more quietly and whereas there was a distinct rattle if you shut the door with the window open now it's just a solid thunk window up or window down. That front woofer still vibrates the inner door significantly but at least I've killed I would estimate at least 50% of the internal panel resonance. Very satisfying.

As hard as this was I know this was the easy job compared to the interior floors and wheel wells. That's where you really get the payoff in terms of road noise. In that second picture you can see how I cut individual notches in the dampening compound instead of placing them over the ribs on the woofer mounting. That extra bit of dampening Compound on the ribs made it much tighter in terms of reinstalling the door. So I would recommend avoiding that. Just cut individual slices that can go on the non ribbed areas of the woofer mounting plate. That mounting plate resonates like a son of a b**** so getting damping and compound on that is really critical.


View attachment 369370 View attachment 369371

Is that the oem speaker in the door still or something replaced? If not do you plan to replace it? Also wondering what material you used and approx how much of it and cost to do both front doors?

 

[dfwatt]

Is that the oem speaker in the door still or something replaced? If not do you plan to replace it? Also wondering what material you used and approx how much of it and cost to do both front doors?

That's the original speaker. I will wait until bad design has a pop in replacement speaker that's a simple swap. It would need to be something that would fit in that original OEM bracket. Won't get into fabricating brackets. I used noico, which is top rated on Amazon even above such Classics as Xtreme Dynamat. It works very well but I'm sure there lots of viable Alternatives. It's not very expensive about $1.75 a square foot. I probably used about six or seven square feet on the front door. So I would figure in terms of material costs no more than 12 bucks per door. But it's about two and a half hours of your time even if you've been doing it regularly and in my case over three hours because it's the first time I've done the front doors. Worth it though as the door now shuts much more like a Mercedes door.

I drew a line at full disassembly of the door. In other words I did not want to take out the plastic inner structure that holds all the electronics. The problem is I'm not one hundred percent confident I wouldn't mess something up, and that inner plastic structure appears to be bonded with some kind of special gaskets to the metal portion of the door. I suspect that gasket is one use only and if you could not get it to reseal properly you might be creating more resonances than you are dampening. More importantly, I'm not sure that you don't get to a point of diminishing returns with Dynamatting. Most of the resonance appears to be emerging from the plastic speaker mounting bracket that is part of that inner plastic second membrane inside the outer door and from the metal that it's attached to. I think if you dampen the resonances in that you probably are getting your most bang for the buck and the best reward per hour of time. I suspect the full disassembly of the door would put you at about 6 hours of time for the front door alone. That's just one door.

 

[chinnam3]

Second front door went better and more smoothly. No busted Clips as I was super careful about alignment before trying to compress the door after installation. I was pretty obsessive so it took me almost three hours and 10 minutes to finish. It's worth it because the door now shuts much more quietly and whereas there was a distinct rattle if you shut the door with the window open now it's just a solid thunk window up or window down. That front woofer still vibrates the inner door significantly but at least I've killed I would estimate at least 50% of the internal panel resonance. Very satisfying.

As hard as this was I know this was the easy job compared to the interior floors and wheel wells. That's where you really get the payoff in terms of road noise. In that second picture you can see how I cut individual notches in the dampening compound instead of placing them over the ribs on the woofer mounting. That extra bit of dampening Compound on the ribs made it much tighter in terms of reinstalling the door. So I would recommend avoiding that. Just cut individual slices that can go on the non ribbed areas of the woofer mounting plate. That mounting plate resonates like a son of a b**** so getting damping and compound on that is really critical.


View attachment 369370 View attachment 369371

Did you put damping behind the speaker on the outer door skin? That is very important. Also we could potentially damp speaker mounting area from inside so that it would not block installing the inner plastic trim.

I do see some vibrations and thought of doing it my self, but just being lazy. I did it on couple of cars before almost a decade ago (all doors, firewall, and rear fenders) when I installed upgraded speakers and amp. What I observed is outer door skin is very important.

 

[aspec818]

do you guys think sound deadening the trunk or the doors would have a greater effect on road noise and sound system improvements? the sound system in the 3 sounds really good when the car is idle but once you start moving, the road noise drowns out the sound system.

That's the original speaker. I will wait until bad design has a pop in replacement speaker that's a simple swap. It would need to be something that would fit in that original OEM bracket. Won't get into fabricating brackets. I used noico, which is top rated on Amazon even above such Classics as Xtreme Dynamat. It works very well but I'm sure there lots of viable Alternatives. It's not very expensive about $1.75 a square foot. I probably used about six or seven square feet on the front door. So I would figure in terms of material costs no more than 12 bucks per door. But it's about two and a half hours of your time even if you've been doing it regularly and in my case over three hours because it's the first time I've done the front doors. Worth it though as the door now shuts much more like a Mercedes door.

I drew a line at full disassembly of the door. In other words I did not want to take out the plastic inner structure that holds all the electronics. The problem is I'm not one hundred percent confident I wouldn't mess something up, and that inner plastic structure appears to be bonded with some kind of special gaskets to the metal portion of the door. I suspect that gasket is one use only and if you could not get it to reseal properly you might be creating more resonances than you are dampening. More importantly, I'm not sure that you don't get to a point of diminishing returns with Dynamatting. Most of the resonance appears to be emerging from the plastic speaker mounting bracket that is part of that inner plastic second membrane inside the outer door and from the metal that it's attached to. I think if you dampen the resonances in that you probably are getting your most bang for the buck and the best reward per hour of time. I suspect the full disassembly of the door would put you at about 6 hours of time for the front door alone. That's just one door.

did you notice a significant reduction in road noise and and improvement in the stereo while the vehicle is moving? the sound system sounds really nice when the car is idle but once the car starts moving, the road noise drowns out the system.

 

[dfwatt]

I think it's a little bit quieter but the biggest payoff for road noise comes when you Dynamat the wheel wells and floor. That's a whole nother story and a lot more ambitious. Probably won't do that for another month as I've got a bunch of other work products I have to get out after getting the easy job of dynamiting 8 doors (we have 2 model 3s.) The door shutting is discernibly less noisy and without the sense of rattle or looseness that was there before the dynammating

 

[dfwatt]

To those interested in dampening compounding Applications in relationship to the Model 3 (hereafter referred to as dynamatting, even though I am using NOICO), here's my short list of basic suggestions that will save you a certain amount of grief and optimize results as much as possible:

1) TAKE YOUR TIME – Haste not only makes waste here but broken parts. Expect to spend 2.5-3 hours on each of the front doors and 1.5-2 hours on each of the back doors.
2) expect that the pop in clips will require a LOT of force to release, and be VERY careful that the releasing force is applied on the clip axis - pulling only straight out in other words, as applying even some modest lateral pull will very likely break the clip (resulting in a loud curse by the owner!)
3) apply the Noico or other dynamatting material at no colder than 60F
4) Applications to the front door are far more effective and needed in terms of controlling the primary source of structural resonance with resultant muddying of the bass, the 8 inch woofer basket, which vibrates like crazy and sets the entire combination of metal and inner plastic sleeve into sympathetic major resonance (that plastic sleeve is what you see in my pictures in terms of the central area of the door space that holds all the electronics)
5) I'd probably recommend against full disassembly – unless you've done this kind of thing before – simply because I suspect that the gasket that bonds the inner plastic to the metal structures in the door could be one use only, and i suspect it would be a bitch to achieve proper realignment.

Bottom line – was it worth it? Yes. Got a couple of nasty cuts from the scissors and razor blade, but the doors now shut like a Mercedes door. Bass subjectively seems tighter and somewhat less muddy, but I have to be suspicious of placebo effects and expectancy bias.

There's no question however about the door feeling more solid. That's definitely a real and independently verified (my wife is no fan of technology) change.

 

[dfwatt]

Did you put damping behind the speaker on the outer door skin? That is very important. Also we could potentially damp speaker mounting area from inside so that it would not block installing the inner plastic trim.

I do see some vibrations and thought of doing it my self, but just being lazy. I did it on couple of cars before almost a decade ago (all doors, firewall, and rear fenders) when I installed upgraded speakers and amp. What I observed is outer door skin is very important.

Not entirely sure what you mean in terms of behind the speaker? I did not pull the speaker out just dynamatted around it extensively. If you want to get to the outer door metal, you would have to pull out the inner plastic sleeve which is likely to be just an enormous amount of extra work, and as I stated in my previous posts it's got a gasket mount that you will probably have to replace. That decision was more about me not wanting to get into a boondoggle situation where I am potentially causing more problems than I was relieving.

More ambitious installers probably would feel comfortable tackling that level of dynamatting.

 

[chinnam3]

Not entirely sure what you mean in terms of behind the speaker? I did not pull the speaker out just dynamatted around it extensively. If you want to get to the outer door metal, you would have to pull out the inner plastic sleeve which is likely to be just an enormous amount of extra work, and as I stated in my previous posts it's got a gasket mount that you will probably have to replace. That decision was more about me not wanting to get into a boondoggle situation where I am potentially causing more problems than I was relieving.

More ambitious installers probably would feel comfortable tackling that level of dynamatting.

Yes, I meant outer door metal (outer skin of door). Door Cavity behind the speaker acts as speaker cabinet, hence it is important to reinforce that. Yes to do that, you need to at least remove speaker and apply dynamat directly behind at minimum. Because of large surface area without many creases outer door skin need more reinforcement compared to inner. Also, if space permits something like wave breaker kit (Hushmat Wave Breaker Kit) is beneficial.

Last two cars I did, I removed complete inner panels, not just speakers and applied several strips of dynamat to outer door skin. It makes substantial difference on how door feels(knock test also), and helps reduce low frequency rumble transfer from outside.

I did not open my Model 3 yet, but based on images I saw, it should not be big effort to remove the front door speaker and apply Dynamat behind it. Normally sealants are very flexible and reusable, and worst case you can use outdoor silicone sealant to seal.

Don't know if I feel differently now about the amount work .. Only recent work I did on car speakers is, a month ago, I had to replace factory JBL mid/woofers on friend's Prius with JBL premium sound system as those failed. Replace both with 3 Ohm Rockford 60W mids. Built new harness so that factory harness need not be cut, and also needed to modify mounting ring to fit those. Took couple of hours though.

Thanks for sharing your work, photos and thoughts! Generally I am too lazy/not inclined to take photos while I work, if I start, I just want to finish it off first!!

 

[dfwatt]

Yes, I meant outer door metal (outer skin of door). Door Cavity behind the speaker acts as speaker cabinet, hence it is important to reinforce that. Yes to do that, you need to at least remove speaker and apply dynamat directly behind at minimum. Because of large surface area without many creases outer door skin need more reinforcement compared to inner. Also, if space permits something like wave breaker kit (Hushmat Wave Breaker Kit) is beneficial.

Last two cars I did, I removed complete inner panels, not just speakers and applied several strips of dynamat to outer door skin. It makes substantial difference on how door feels(knock test also), and helps reduce low frequency rumble transfer from outside.

I did not open my Model 3 yet, but based on images I saw, it should not be big effort to remove the front door speaker and apply Dynamat behind it. Normally sealants are very flexible and reusable, and worst case you can use outdoor silicone sealant to seal.

Don't know if I feel differently now about the amount work .. Only recent work I did on car speakers is, a month ago, I had to replace factory JBL mid/woofers on friend's Prius with JBL premium sound system as those failed. Replace both with 3 Ohm Rockford 60W mids. Built new harness so that factory harness need not be cut, and also needed to modify mounting ring to fit those. Took couple of hours though.

Thanks for sharing your work, photos and thoughts! Generally I am too lazy/not inclined to take photos while I work, if I start, I just want to finish it off first!!

do you guys think sound deadening the trunk or the doors would have a greater effect on road noise and sound system improvements? the sound system in the 3 sounds really good when the car is idle but once you start moving, the road noise drowns out the sound system.

did you notice a significant reduction in road noise and and improvement in the stereo while the vehicle is moving? the sound system sounds really nice when the car is idle but once the car starts moving, the road noise drowns out the system.

Had a chance to do more testing, driving on highway we drive on everyday, at 70mph. Car is distinctly quieter, and stereo volume doesn't need to be turned up as high to get to volume that I typically listen to. Still some good targets for further noise reduction around the wheel wells. That's next.

 

[chinnam3]

Had a chance to do more testing, driving on highway we drive on everyday, at 70mph. Car is distinctly quieter, and stereo volume doesn't need to be turned up as high to get to volume that I typically listen to. Still some good targets for further noise reduction around the wheel wells. That's next.

Good to know it helped highway noise also. It is now more motivating for me!
Most highway noise for me is the tire noise on rougher patches, and vibration transmitted via suspension components. May be insulating fender backside will help somewhat.

 

[dfwatt]

Good to know it helped highway noise also. It is now more motivating for me!
Most highway noise for me is the tire noise on rougher patches, and vibration transmitted via suspension components. May be insulating fender backside will help somewhat.

Yep for sure. I'm also going to heavily dynamat the strut towers in the front but I have to take apart the frunk first to get at them