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Best to charge to 60%?
- Thread starter Doug1000
- Start date
Except for the risk of fire, the severity is less with low SOC.
I tested three used lipos today, all still workning fine but they have been replaced.
I did use them two weeks ago, all worked fine with similar performance.
One was discharged to 0% (mininum discharge voltage)
One was storage charged and had 47%
One was fully charged to 100%.
Then I punctured and damaged them.
The 0% : nothing at all happened, not even varm.
The 47%: It got warm, slightly above hand temperature but it was over quite fast.
The 100% charged: started smoking and gave sounds, not possible to hold due to temperature.
How do you all feel bout using RecurrentAuto for your battery data? I'm having mixed feelings
alexcue
Member
I don't, i use TeslaFi, I feel i have control, and i never have an issue with the car not sleeping because of the program.
Tslylr
Member
So if you have 100% charged battery and you use all of it, you should charge it to 100% and its best practise?
I don’t believe that.We have charged my wife's 2018 Model 3 LR at 80% for daily use and have had minimal battery loss.So if you have 100% charged battery and you use all of it, you should charge it to 100% and its best practise?
SageBrush
REJECT Fascism
People are seeking a line in the sand: SoC 'S' is "good," while S+1 is "bad." Pack temperature 'T' is "good," and 'T+1' is "bad." It does not work that way.
Battery degradation is mostly due to high(er) pack temperature and high(er) SoC, with the combination of both at the same time being a fair bit worse. The effect is cumulative, meaning e.g. that the degradation caused by a high SoC for 10 hours is 10x that of the same SoC for one hour.
The comments arguing over what SoC is "safe(r)" are mostly missing the boat. The better answer is this: minimize the time at high SoC, particularly when the pack is hot. And conversely, minimize the time the pack spends at a high(er) temperature, particularly when the SoC is high(er).
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Sometimes trade-offs are unavoidable, usually translated as 'do what you gotta do.'
E.g., our Chevy Bolt only agrees to maximum pack cooling in the summer if plugged in and delayed charging is not active. This forces me to make a choice between cooling off the pack or reducing the time the car sits at a high(er) SoC. I chose to prioritize pack temperature control (82F instead of 93F) over SoC (ends up being 75% almost all day since that is my charge limit and the car is plugged in when not in use)
Battery degradation is mostly due to high(er) pack temperature and high(er) SoC, with the combination of both at the same time being a fair bit worse. The effect is cumulative, meaning e.g. that the degradation caused by a high SoC for 10 hours is 10x that of the same SoC for one hour.
The comments arguing over what SoC is "safe(r)" are mostly missing the boat. The better answer is this: minimize the time at high SoC, particularly when the pack is hot. And conversely, minimize the time the pack spends at a high(er) temperature, particularly when the SoC is high(er).
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Sometimes trade-offs are unavoidable, usually translated as 'do what you gotta do.'
E.g., our Chevy Bolt only agrees to maximum pack cooling in the summer if plugged in and delayed charging is not active. This forces me to make a choice between cooling off the pack or reducing the time the car sits at a high(er) SoC. I chose to prioritize pack temperature control (82F instead of 93F) over SoC (ends up being 75% almost all day since that is my charge limit and the car is plugged in when not in use)
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I would guess 12% or slightly more, reading San Diego as the home base and 80% counting from the full pack when new. That’ll be about 10% range loss.
To check it, you might need to perform the energi app/graph calculation.
Average x calculated range x 100 / SOC % = Watt-hours capacity.
Do the check at 80% if you anyway charge to 80%. There’s a setting in the lower right corner that should be at ”normal range”.
There is no such thing as (a real) battery lottery so any battery will follow the laws of the nature, thats why I can call it a most probable around 12% loss, or around 68.5 kWh capacity today.
I have 66000km on my MY now. I charge to 100% every Sunday and make the same 400-ish km round trip. During the summer months, I get back with 5-20% charge, but during colder months, I need to SC, sometimes up to 25% or so. I do time my charging so that I stay at 100% for no longer than 30mins before departure.
We also do about 4 long road trips per year, each lasting perhaps around 3000km. Obviously, all of these are SCed. We sleep at camp sites, so we are back to 75% charging unless we see long journey ahead. I never exceed 75% at SC due to charging speed and my (frequent) washroom break need.
I'm still on the original tire at the moment as during the winter I used another set. I initially set daily top-up to 80%, but about 6 months ago, I lowered to 75% as I don't seem to need 80% at all except for the weekend trips.
Based on TeslaFi's estimates, I lost 4.9%.
I don't worry about battery degradation at all, and we plan to keep this car until we go past 200,000 miles.
We also do about 4 long road trips per year, each lasting perhaps around 3000km. Obviously, all of these are SCed. We sleep at camp sites, so we are back to 75% charging unless we see long journey ahead. I never exceed 75% at SC due to charging speed and my (frequent) washroom break need.
I'm still on the original tire at the moment as during the winter I used another set. I initially set daily top-up to 80%, but about 6 months ago, I lowered to 75% as I don't seem to need 80% at all except for the weekend trips.
Based on TeslaFi's estimates, I lost 4.9%.
I don't worry about battery degradation at all, and we plan to keep this car until we go past 200,000 miles.
where do you see a teslafi degradation? The battery report I see only seems to compare EPA numbers with current range. It is also using a number that wasn't even the EPA rating when I bought the car but for some reason I don't remember Telsa bumped it up by about 5% after some update.
So the day I drove mine home I already had about 9.5% 'degradation'. I do readily admit I'm not sure how to read that battery report nor have a clue as to the parameters you can adjust.
Teslafi compares to the initial range and also the highest and current range for a specific (your car).
You can set a custom range for one custom comparison.
There is not a EPA comparison, unless I have missed it.
I was stupid enough to try to change the wheels in the menu, as My car had the next worse range, so now I have a “12-13% range loss” despite the battery is at 98kWh nominal full pack (nominal full pack read with scan my tesla).
maybe it's different here in the states. Below is mine. That 323 is the EPA that is higher than the EPA when I got the car (see above EPA increase after update).
This is with setting no dates so presumably from I joined teslafi which would be a couple weeks after delivery.
Also interesting is if I go with the last 12 months, I have a percent gain. From a seasonal, driving habits, etc range gain is certainly possible. But it can't be a negative battery degradation.
Bottom line; I don't see how one can get battery degradation from this report.
This is with setting no dates so presumably from I joined teslafi which would be a couple weeks after delivery.
Also interesting is if I go with the last 12 months, I have a percent gain. From a seasonal, driving habits, etc range gain is certainly possible. But it can't be a negative battery degradation.
Bottom line; I don't see how one can get battery degradation from this report.
What car and year do you have?
In general, the real EPA range is not changed during a cars life.
There van be updates to the displayed range, often quite early in the cars life like mine M3P ’21 which showed 499km(310mi) for the first month, until the car was updated to the specified EPA range (507km/ 315mi).
I do not see the ”fixed” certfied EPA range in your graph as a comparison but I see the range that teslafi calculated, which might match EPA.
My car did show full range (315 mi or 507 km or sometimes 508km for quite some time on full charges and also in scan my tesla (BMS Actal values), but Teslafi jumped up and down during this time due to the rounded SOC which causes a rounded max range calc. During this time the scan my tesla/teslalogger data showed a much more consistent range and battery capacity.
Thats right, you can not get it directly.
The battery capacity when new allows for different percevt of degradation before the range starts to drop, so you’ll need to know some data to be able to use it for this. And if you know it, it is still a rounded number so not exact
I've been charging to 60% for months now. My daily commute uses roughly 14% and I have have departure time set to complete charging about 20 min before I leave. By the time I get to work, I'm at around 53%, where it sits all day and return home with mid 40's, where it sits all evening/night . Maybe charging to 55% would be better, but I like the extra padding for the occasional diversions and the car sits below 55 for the lion's share of the time. As far as temps, I am garaged at work & home.
I didn't record my available miles per SOC when I first got the car almost 7 months ago, so I don't really have a reference point to compare to (unless there is something In charge stats that I'm not aware of. I haven't really looked at that too hard). Maybe one day I'll get one these 3rd party apps you guys keep mentioning.
I didn't record my available miles per SOC when I first got the car almost 7 months ago, so I don't really have a reference point to compare to (unless there is something In charge stats that I'm not aware of. I haven't really looked at that too hard). Maybe one day I'll get one these 3rd party apps you guys keep mentioning.
2020 MYLR induction wheels
I tried going through the help section but couldn't find any explanation on rated miles.
The original EPA was 316 (just double check the window sticker) but after an update changed to 323. Looks like , according to NotATeslaApp, that that was 2020.40.7 / 2020-10-16. The notes don't indicate what the number was but my memory is 323. That's why I figured that rated 323 was EPA.
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The formal EPA for the 2020 was/still is 316 miles From what I could find. This car has the first gen Panasonic 2170 with 77.8kWh full pack when new and in the EPA tests it could reach slightly above 78kWh, there was a few tests where it reached 78.5kWh.
The 316mi EPA range probably (initially at least) had a max displayed range of about 316 miles and probably needed about 76kWh to do this.
If we imagine that the max displayed range is unlocked from 316mi, and your battery would reach about the Full Pack when new, 77.8kWh capacity then it would show about 323 miles.
The epa.gov site showing the EPA tests is unavailable at the moment, at least for me so I can not dig into it.
Perhaps @AlanSubie4Life already has a grip about this. We Didn’t have the 2020 Y in Europe so I do not know that much.
The 2021 Y LR in US did get the new 2170L batteri with 82kWh if I remember it correctly, but I guess it is set like the Model 3LR and reach maximum range at about 79kWh. Are we sure you have a Model Y with the model year 2020? Or can it be built late 2020 but the model year is ’21? That would explain the range change early in the ownership, just as I described on my M3P 2020. That’ll say, they started delivering the car with the old max range setting and adjusted it to the 2021 early after delivery via and update, just like my M3P.
