-
Want to remove ads? Register an account and login to see fewer ads, and become a Supporting Member to remove almost all ads.
Changing our shoes
- Thread starter MrBadger
- Start date
Have you tried that? That looks to be over 12cm tall. Also, have you confirmed that the piston long enough - short bottle jacks often have very low lift? Car doesn't have to be lifted too high though - I didn't think the measure it.
However from your photo, I can't see that fitting beneath. I have a very low profile jack pad and have max 11.5cm clearance with that on even ground with fully inflated tyres. LR AWD. See my photo earlier with jack pad in place - the fluorescent ring is part way up the puck, so clearance beneath puck is less than that.
Would love a low profile bottle jack to fit. I bought a 1.5t scissor jack for emergencies. Thankfully you don't have to lift the car much.
WannabeOwner
Well-Known Member
Does modern car, with air suspension, make a difference? (I'm thinking adjustable for when you need to jack it up, but maybe that isn't actually an option?)
Out of curiosity: is it possible to pack an inflation-balloon jack neatly in the car, run it from 12V, and would it be suitable to lift a Tesla (given the jacking points maybe lifting the whole car is not an option?)
Especially when you have to use one in an emergency situation where you can't guarantee how flat or stable the ground is. It's a very tempting and neat solution for portability but it looks like there are certainly downsides.
I won't use scissor jack's again after I had one catastrophicly collapse losing the end of my finger last year when putting winters on my wife's car. Apparently, (everyone told me after the accident) they should only be used once or twice in an emergency and then replaced.
I had used mine 50+ times!! Plus was a bit naughty and would use a drill to instant raise a car.
I'll be putting winters on in a few weeks time so will properly measure and add photos here to this thread. In the meantime I've chucked in a wedge into the below-boot cubby hole just incase things are tight. The JDM lowered car community use this trick.
This bottle jack has two rising sliders, one inside the other, unlike the cheaper ones that have a single slider and a small base that can topple over.
I had used mine 50+ times!! Plus was a bit naughty and would use a drill to instant raise a car.
I'll be putting winters on in a few weeks time so will properly measure and add photos here to this thread. In the meantime I've chucked in a wedge into the below-boot cubby hole just incase things are tight. The JDM lowered car community use this trick.
This bottle jack has two rising sliders, one inside the other, unlike the cheaper ones that have a single slider and a small base that can topple over.
ElectricJoules
Member
With this in mind, I did the opposite today - I used the torque wrench instead of the breaker bar to get the nuts off in the first place.
In my case it was easier, because my torque wrench is slightly longer than my breaker bar, and also has a ratchet drive. So if looking to carry only one tool, carrying just the torque wrench has some attraction. (this is the same torque wrench that I mentioned upthread: IMO both inexpensive and quite good).
I personally would never use a torque wrench to undo anything. Whilst many can be used in reverse, a stubborn nut peak loading can easily overload the wrench and damage it. Depends on the headroom the torque wrench I guess but I have experienced many occasions where a huge amount of additional torque is needed to start a nut turning that had I been using a torque wrench would have been off the scale.
I was using it on the same torque setting as I subsequently used to tighten the nuts (and had originally tightened the ones I was undoing 6 months ago), and all came off without reaching the set torque (this slightly surprised me, as I was expecting to need to advance the setting slightly). None were loose - all took significant torque to free them, but apparently slightly less than the torque originally used to tighten them. This might possibly relate to the relative temperatures.
Obviously a corroded nut that has been sitting there for years untouched may well take very substantial torque to shift it, but that's less likely to be the case here with wheels being changed every 6 months.
Update on the Mato bottle jack. With the puck, it's 1cm too tall which is very annoying because on paper, it should have fitted! Plus, both my trolley jacks were too tall. So I'll pop it up on wedges and change to the winters today but have just ordered the wolf 2.5T trolley jack.
I think I may still carry the Mato bottle jack + wedge with me rather than a 13kg Wold trolley jack. we'll see how easy it goes.
I think I may still carry the Mato bottle jack + wedge with me rather than a 13kg Wold trolley jack. we'll see how easy it goes.
You may have a problem with that Wolf trolley jack with some pucks - it looks pretty much identical to the original Clarke that I was going buy. It can probably be modified though if thats your thing. May be worth checking the diameter of the saddle. Those trolleys are deceptively small.
The issue is the diameter of the saddle on the clarke (so presumably the twin wolf - they seem to only differ in wheel size) was very small, so my pucks would not sit within it and there was no way they were going to safely sit on the saddle as the puck is quite hard - a rubber puck might flex to accomodate but then there is risk of splitting the rubber. In the end I went with a jack that had a much larger diameter saddle than my puck - which was even more important when jack was used as the puck moved slightly on the saddle as the arm lifted - not a smooth piece of ground so jack didn't roll slightly to adjust.
The issue is the diameter of the saddle on the clarke (so presumably the twin wolf - they seem to only differ in wheel size) was very small, so my pucks would not sit within it and there was no way they were going to safely sit on the saddle as the puck is quite hard - a rubber puck might flex to accomodate but then there is risk of splitting the rubber. In the end I went with a jack that had a much larger diameter saddle than my puck - which was even more important when jack was used as the puck moved slightly on the saddle as the arm lifted - not a smooth piece of ground so jack didn't roll slightly to adjust.
Last edited:
I'm adding this to prove that it does not work. Whilst the mato bottle jack is small and low, it is too low. I tried using a wedge but the jack don't have enough lift and I wasn't going to kick away the wedge incase I got the bottle jack stuck underneath.
Thanks for the tip about the wolf trolley jack. Looked like some mods required to make this work.
Thanks for the tip about the wolf trolley jack. Looked like some mods required to make this work.
Not that I have seen here in UK. Still early doors.
My scissor jack for emergency roadside use will need a pad made to support the puck.
My scissor jack for emergency roadside use will need a pad made to support the puck.
I have the Wolf 2.25t trolley jack from Amazon and can confirm that the pucks don't fit in the saddle. However, the saddle has a high density rubber insert and this fits nicely on the jack point without the puck if you are careful. I have raised the car without issue like this. You just need to be careful with the positioning and make sure that the saddle insert isn't anywhere near the battery housing. The jack itself is a brick "out" house and is good value.
I considered that but didn't like the stacked arrangement plus the pressure on the base of the puck would have been circumferential rather than evenly distributed across the base. I thought the puck could slip or split so ditched it. I have however found the pucks useful for tyre shops as they have low profile jacks with much bigger saddles
navt
Member
I got the wolf jack and cut the rubber insert that came with it so that there is a flat surface for the Tesla puck.
Similar threads
