Doing own wheel rotation in Aus- my learnings

[OzTzlaBloke]

I used two pucks, one 10T chassis stand, 200NM torque wrench set to 175NM. 21mm socket with short extension. Wheel Brace (good quality). two wheel choks.

Mate great post.

The service manual calls out a six sided 21mm socket specifically. This is due to the torque spec and is sensible. I found for mine a six sided industrial impact socket slightly narrower than normal in the "allow wheel" style to be right on. A true 21mm six sided impact industrial socket is likely too thick though now my curiosity is raised Ill probably fiddle in daylight to see

The front wheel was very high (250mm or more) before I got the rear off the ground and with the chassis stand under there, the rear had about 80mm clearance. The jack managed but it would not have gone much further (spec says max 380mm).

This is one of the reasons why Im a fan of the caravan style scissor jacks in Aus. Talking 600mm+ and easy to get an cordless impact gun onto for speed too. And they go down to a nice low height too.

I cannot imagine they have all loosened themselves so the conclusion is that they were probably not torqued right at the factory.

I have many years in motorsport competing and as well some program management of national level events. Sadly, fatal accidents have occurred in this respect. However in threaded fasteners that are properly engineered they will not fail. Deaths occur due to things like "stress corrosion cracking" which is maintenance negligence or "failure to torque to spec" and so forth. I can assure you simple numbers it is veri quickly evident 175nm on that number nuts with the forces - just no brainer its not a problem it wont come undone its sound design

 

[OzTzlaBloke]

My curiosity got the better of me. Had to fiddle with a wheel anyway so today:

All four wheel nuts were bang on 175nm torque. I know for sure no one has touched those wheel nuts since I took delivery. My 1/2" and 1/4" deflecting beam torque wrenches are typically double the accuracy of most other types.

So I was wrong: A six sided impact industrial socket will actually fit when I trialed it up- well atleast on my M3P wheels. These impact sockets tend to have thicker walls than the hand tool equivalents. If I used this Id for sure not be in a rush and Id be looking to pay attention to not scratch things especially if pulling out the impact gun etc

This is the setup I prefer and some of the tools I always keep in the car. This is a six sided industrial socket still heavy duty but in a slightly thinner wall for clearance and anti scratch on the plastic sleeve. Its an Aus brand, ultimate tools, Typically, these sorts of six sided industrial sockets are way tougher and way stronger (toughness and strength are distinct mechanical properties) than the 12 sided chrome plated hand sockets. Using a six sided socket over 12 sided in high torque situations is important.

 

[OzTzlaBloke]

That breaker bar is also an ultimate tools brand here in Aus. Its 760mm long 1/2 inch drive so it gobbles up 175nm wheel nuts. Because I want it bullet proof reliable I deliberately got the non ratcheting head last thing I need is a tool failure at the track or in a remote location.

I keep my "always in the car" tools in the boot. A 760mm breaker bar fits easily in the lower boot area of the model 3.

It fits in the frunk too. I tend to keep charging cables and the like in the frunk as needed.

Ive had this stanley toolkit for ages. This is super compact and highly transportable. Its both metric and imperial, 132 piece set. I always carry this + 21mm industrial wheel socket + breaker bar + scissor jack + tyre kit + non marking trim tools + jack pucks + my riggers leather gloves + a blanket and blue tarp + the first aid kit + rubber wheel chocks in the lower boot section. Theres easily room for more like if Im doing a club meet or track day then Ill bring my torque wrenches and my flare nut spanners for the brake lines and spare fluids and so on.

If its a big event Ill tend to raid my various tool chests at home for like my impact sockets, impact extensions, impact wobble extensions and lithium ion impact gun etcetc

 

[Quickst]

That breaker bar

Yes
I keep telling my boys to not use the torque wrench to undo a nut. Breaker bar to undo, torque wrench to do it up

 

[Stig3824]

Today, for the first time, I rotated the wheels on my 3LR. Approx 17,000kms. Total time 1hr25m which included getting the car out of the garage, emptying the boot, assembling materials, doing the work, retrieving a lug nut which roiled down a drain which was under the car, returning car to garage and refilling boot, doing tyre reset in the car.

I used two pucks, one 10T chassis stand, 200NM torque wrench set to 175NM. 21mm socket with short extension. Wheel Brace (good quality). two wheel choks.

Tyre wear looks good and same as far as I can tell front and rear.

I did passenger side first, jacking the front. I first loosened all nuts and discovered to my surprise that every nut was about half the specified torque! Glad I did this work now before the wheels fell off......

The front wheel was very high (250mm or more) before I got the rear off the ground and with the chassis stand under there, the rear had about 80mm clearance. The jack managed but it would not have gone much further (spec says max 380mm).

I used a Vevor 2.5tonne single cylinder trolley jack. This worked fine. However a 3 tonne twin cylinder would be better.

I minimised the wheel-off time for the jacked wheel as the jack is less trustworthy than the chassis stand.

For the driver's side, I tried jacking the rear and this was slightly easier so I'll do it that way next time.

Overall, a simple and relatively quick job. I'll be faster next time. The wear probably did not need rotation, but it won't do any harm and it is good to have the wheel nuts all at the correct torque. I cannot imagine they have all loosened themselves so the conclusion is that they were probably not torqued right at the factory.

 

[Stig3824]

Just in case someone else had issues getting their trolley jack under with the pucks in place. You can raise the chassis by driving onto a couple of blocks of wood.

 

[PianoAl]

Note that if you have a spare, you only need to lift one wheel at a time. It only requires one extra off-on step.

I always did that until my local tire place offered free rotation.

 

[fholbert]

I like @Gixx1300R idea. He gets all four wheels off the ground safely using one jack.

DIY Tire Rotation Ideas

Did mine today. Just got a 3 ton low profile at Harbor freight on Friday with a coupon they emailed me. I did the rear with the big jack, and then there was clearance to get my "regular" 2 ton much smaller jack (you can carry it in one hand) that wasn't low profile enough on its own (I don't...

teslamotorsclub.com

 

[Gixx1300R]

Just in case someone else had issues getting their trolley jack under with the pucks in place. You can raise the chassis by driving onto a couple of blocks of wood.

using hydraulic jacks that way is extremely unsafe