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Charging problem after FW 4.3? Or a faulty UMC?

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The most common red-light cause with the UMC is a ground fault / bad ground. You should check the ground connection for the receptacle. The UMC tests to ensure that there is voltage potential between L1 and ground; and if there is not, it will provide a red-light error. The car will report "cycle wall power".

If you are getting a red light on both 120V and 240V - different receptacles on different circuits - it seems your UMC may have gone bad. You may want to try carrying your UMC to another outlet somewhere on the other side of the house to see if it lights up green there.

But, the UMC lights up green on all outlets. The car reads plenty of volts, but it receives 0 Amps. As for trying another outlet, bear in mind that the downward spiral began by trying my charger in my friends outlet.

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It has happened to me now as well. I have to take the car into the svc center tomorrow. Not too happy about this.

So, this is 4 of us in the Chicago area with cars that won't charge off the UMC? Elecblue - are you also post 4.3?
 
But, the UMC lights up green on all outlets. The car reads plenty of volts, but it receives 0 Amps. As for trying another outlet, bear in mind that the downward spiral began by trying my charger in my friends outlet.

If the car is reading voltage, that means the contactor in the UMC has closed and is supplying the AC power to the car. Presumably, but not guaranteed, it means the UMC is working because the car is seeing its pilot signal and the UMC is responding to the command from the car to close the contactor. Watch the screen carefully just after plugging it in - does the car ever attempt to leave 0 amps? Does the screen show a maximum amps, i.e., "0/40 A" ? Does it seem correct?

Let's be careful with the terminology - the UMC or the charger? Charger's in the car, the UMC just "turns on" power to the cable attached to the car. If the car shows voltage, the UMC has done its job. It is very possible that there was a charger malfunction in one of the two cars could have harmed the UMC (as mentioned earlier, there is a remote possibility the SC contactor could blow up something, but I don't know the entire system enough to determine how likely that is).
 
If the car is reading voltage, that means the contactor in the UMC has closed and is supplying the AC power to the car. Presumably, but not guaranteed, it means the UMC is working because the car is seeing its pilot signal and the UMC is responding to the command from the car to close the contactor. Watch the screen carefully just after plugging it in - does the car ever attempt to leave 0 amps? Does the screen show a maximum amps, i.e., "0/40 A" ? Does it seem correct?

Let's be careful with the terminology - the UMC or the charger? Charger's in the car, the UMC just "turns on" power to the cable attached to the car. If the car shows voltage, the UMC has done its job. It is very possible that there was a charger malfunction in one of the two cars could have harmed the UMC (as mentioned earlier, there is a remote possibility the SC contactor could blow up something, but I don't know the entire system enough to determine how likely that is).

FlasherZ - I think you're on to something, and please excuse my ignorance on terminology. Although I've done my best to keep up through the forums, I only took delivery 5 days ago. So, the real learning is just begining. So, upon plugging in to the 240 and/or 110, the volts immediately show up on the screen along with 0/40 amps or 0/12 amps, respectively. We then go through a few cycles of the "charge" cycling down to zero volts and back up (down to 0, up to 248/114, respectively). Then, it goes red and provides the error message (not charging, unplug and try again). Because I was able to charge on the 110 even after I downloaded 4.3 and no longer can, I believe that a bug in 4.3 fouled the chord/UMC and it became activated after I attempted to charge off the 240 for the first time. This is consistent with the 3 others who began having charging difficulty after downloading 4.3, and with the fact that we all seem to be able to charge on public/level 2 stations.

Anyway, I dropped the car at the Chicago Service Station first thing this morning. They are aware of the problem and the cars affected. Hopefully we'll be back to normal soon. Even if that means I go back to 4.2 while they drill down on the software bug that's fine by me. I'll be surprised if I don't end up with a new chord/UMC - black thing that plugs into the wall (FlasherZ : ) ). I'll be sure to report the resolution.
 
FlasherZ - I think you're on to something, and please excuse my ignorance on terminology. Although I've done my best to keep up through the forums, I only took delivery 5 days ago. So, the real learning is just begining. So, upon plugging in to the 240 and/or 110, the volts immediately show up on the screen along with 0/40 amps or 0/12 amps, respectively. We then go through a few cycles of the "charge" cycling down to zero volts and back up (down to 0, up to 248/114, respectively). Then, it goes red and provides the error message (not charging, unplug and try again). Because I was able to charge on the 110 even after I downloaded 4.3 and no longer can, I believe that a bug in 4.3 fouled the chord/UMC and it became activated after I attempted to charge off the 240 for the first time. This is consistent with the 3 others who began having charging difficulty after downloading 4.3, and with the fact that we all seem to be able to charge on public/level 2 stations.

Anyway, I dropped the car at the Chicago Service Station first thing this morning. They are aware of the problem and the cars affected. Hopefully we'll be back to normal soon. Even if that means I go back to 4.2 while they drill down on the software bug that's fine by me. I'll be surprised if I don't end up with a new chord/UMC - black thing that plugs into the wall (FlasherZ : ) ). I'll be sure to report the resolution.

No worries about the terminology, it just helps me keep things straight.

I'm still not sure it's the UMC. In your case, the pilot signal is working because the car distinguishes between 120V and 240V adapters (showing you 12A or 40A, respectively), and the contactor is working because the car sees the voltage from the UMC.

I suppose there could be a strange corner-case failure where the UMC's current-sense / ground fault detection is failing, but from the behavior you describe, it certainly sounds like the chargers in the car may be having some type of a problem. At least that's where I would be looking first.

Keep us informed.
 
Chicago SC just called. They say I had a bad mobile connector and that its charging fine on the new one (as I confirmed on the app). For now, they think its just a coincidence that owner 2 had similar problems after I came around with my charger and owners 3 and electricblue are also having problems after downloading 4.3. That's a bit much to swallow, but if I can charge fine at home with my new connector, I'll have to be content to leave this to the experts.
 
Chicago SC just called. They say I had a bad mobile connector and that its charging fine on the new one (as I confirmed on the app). For now, they think its just a coincidence that owner 2 had similar problems after I came around with my charger and owners 3 and electricblue are also having problems after downloading 4.3. That's a bit much to swallow, but if I can charge fine at home with my new connector, I'll have to be content to leave this to the experts.

Great to hear. Guessing there was a problem with the ground and your car detected the fault and refused to charge as a result. Good to hear you're back up and running.
 
The most common red-light cause with the UMC is a ground fault / bad ground. You should check the ground connection for the receptacle. The UMC tests to ensure that there is voltage potential between L1 and ground; and if there is not, it will provide a red-light error. The car will report "cycle wall power".

If you are getting a red light on both 120V and 240V - different receptacles on different circuits - it seems your UMC may have gone bad. You may want to try carrying your UMC to another outlet somewhere on the other side of the house to see if it lights up green there.

Thanks FlasherZ, I will pass this on to the shop that housed the NEMA 6-50. We were able to charge with my UMC just fine from a 120V on a different wall. It may be that receptacle has a bad ground.

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Update - after a bit of charging at the Chicago Service Center, they got the dreaded red light and some error messages. Enterprise is on the way to me. No resolution expected tonight.

Sorry to hear this AF1, that is a total bummer. Hope they find the cause and a solution for you quickly.
 
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Sorry to hear this AF1, that is a total bummer. Hope they find the cause and a solution for you quickly.

From your fingers to the SC's ears. They called back a short time later. After all the drama, they say it was just a bad connection at the charge port. Unfortunately, due to meetings, I won't be home until about 9pm, but I'll plug right in and look for that comforting green light. If I made a reference to Gatsby here would anyone get it?
 
Just got off phone with elecBlue ... we are wondering ... everyone with this problem ... what voltage are you getting?

At my house I am starting at 250. Then it drops to about 245. As is elecblue.
At the Chicago SC, they were only pulling 240. Could it be overvoltage and 4.3?
 
Just got off phone with elecBlue ... we are wondering ... everyone with this problem ... what voltage are you getting?

At my house I am starting at 250. Then it drops to about 245. As is elecblue.
At the Chicago SC, they were only pulling 240. Could it be overvoltage and 4.3?

250V is fine. I start somewhere between 248-250V unloaded and under load it drops to 245V.