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Clarity around CAC imbalances, voltage imbalances, bad bricks, and battery warranty - 2015 90D

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Okay, I've read dozens of threads on here of the past couple years of owning a 2015 S90D, and first of all, thanks to so many for providing insights and useful information. Particular thanks to @wk057 and @Recell for their incredible depth of knowledge about our batteries and how they work.

After synthesizing everything I can across many relevant posts, I finally made an account to ask some specific questions and possibly for some advice on how to proceed.

Summary:
- 2015 Model S 90D, MCU 2
- Battery/drivetrain warranty until Sep 2023
- 120k miles
- 15-20 miles of range loss rapidly over 1-2 months starting in Nov 2022
- Cannot charge past 98% (sometimes 90% or 95% is the max)
- Brick 45 with significantly reduced CAC (calculated amp-hour capacity) and severe voltage imbalance
- CAC imbalance (per SMT) - 42.4 Ah (Max 220Ah, min 178Ah) = 19.3%
- Voltage imbalance at rest - 28-300+mV (depending on charge level)
- Tesla says everything is okay, that I should try battery cycling, which does not work.
- Unofficially told by Tesla that a 20% CAC imbalance would be considered defective.


The Long Version:

Our 2015 90D has about 120k miles on it currently and is under battery/drivetrain warranty until Sep 2023 (6 months to go). When we purchased it in 2021, it had around 90k and 245 miles of range at 100% (typically estimated off of 70-80% charge, but occasionally using 90-100% immediately before long trips). Not great for a 90D, but we could live with it, knowing that we bought a high milage example. That range gradually crept down over many months and 25k+ miles of driving until Nov of 2022 100% at that time was about 240 miles, typical expected losses over time. It then began to rapidly lose range, with 100% deteriorating to 220-225 miles of 1-2 months, so a 15-20 mile range loss over that short span.

During this rapid range loss, I got a BMS_w035 error for the second time. The first occurred in 2021 and I was told to ignore it by the service center since it went away. This second time, they told me it was the battery heater, though I have read that occasionally that error is due to a bad HV battery or a bad drive unit. No such luck, I paid them, and the error has not returned for what it's worth.

I did ask them specifically to check on the health of the battery at that visit due to the range loss I was noticing. They told me I had an "imbalance" in the pack but everything was functioning as intended and that cycling the battery would help improve the range estimate and the imbalance. I've obviously read about this on here, did several cycles of 20%, 80%, 20%, 90%, 10%, 85%, 95%, 5% etc. with lots of rest (up to 3 days in some cases) at each state of charge. Probably done this 10-20 times up and down now. The range estimate has not improved at all despite this. I've been back to the service center in Jan 2023 about this and they have also tried cycling without improvement. I often can't charge past 90% or 95%, even on my home 40A/240V charger trying to trickle in a charge. I can never charge past 98% anymore. Tesla says this is normal and expected.

Tesla noted on the most recent visit that the imbalance is in fact worsening, but is within their tolerances and therefore doesn't represent a problem or merit a fix/replacement. They mentioned it is specifically a CAC (calculated amp-hour capacity) imbalance. They did hint, in a very unofficial way, that a CAC imbalance of 20% would be deemed defective. I was reportedly at 16% imbalance in Nov 2022 and at 17.5% in Jan 2023 by their measurements. This was a phone call with an employee who is not a tech or the manager, but one of the few who is incredibly knowledgable, helpful, and that I have a good relationship with at my SC.

Following that last service visit I read heavily on here, got Scan My Tesla, and started documenting my own data. I've also had TeslaFi since we got the car, so I've pulled some historical range info from there as well. What I've interpreted is that Brick 45 is essentially on its way out with a CAC of only 178Ah compared to 218-220Ah for all the other bricks in my battery. It's also the first brick to reach max voltage and drops down to be by far the minimum voltage brick the fastest, further evidence of its reduced capacity. Based on this, I'm fairly certain that my sudden range loss is due to rapid deterioration of this brick, which in turn essentially drags down the whole battery to its level.


My main questions revolve around the following:

1) I assume CAC imbalance is calculated as (max-min)/max? If so, we're at about 19.3% imbalance right now. If it's (max-min)/avg, then we're well over 20%. Someone correct me if there's a known proper (per Tesla) way to calculate.

2) Many posts on here talk about common limits at which the BMS can't tolerate CAC or voltage imbalances. @wk057 has a post showing all the bricks in a vehicle he correctly predicted would have a battery failure due to a CAC imbalance of about 6Ah (2013 MS 85 upgrade to MCU2 then HV battery problem), or about a 3% imbalance. I'm staring at 7x that, somehow without an error, but definitely with the corresponding range loss. Same with voltage imbalances, where I've seen quotes of 20mV up to possibly 100mV as deltas that are likely to cause errors (Battery Imbalance after 8 years). @Recell has a similar post somewhere that I can't find right now. Again, the lowest voltage imbalance I see at rest is 28mV and it goes well above 300mV near the bottom end. Anyone have any insight as to what gives here? Based on the data here on TMC, these would seem to be values that would make the BMS wildly unhappy.

3) I've also read that OTA updates cause the BMS to reset and trigger battery errors. I'm on MCU 2 and still frequently get updates, but none of them during this timeframe of concern have triggered an error. I'm wondering if doing an update on a near full or empty charge may have an effect since the voltage imbalance is greatest there? I've got an update pending right now, and will save it for any information the community here might have.

4) Is this lack of an error in any way specific to the 90 battery and that way its BMS is programmed. Almost all the info I have from here on TMC is related to 85 batteries. It's the same number of modules, bricks, and cells between the two batteries if I'm not mistaken, just different cell chemistry to increase amp-hours but still operate at the same voltage?

5) Any one out there have any experience with Tesla replacing a battery for imbalance issues or other defects without a frank BMS error? Any good way to hold their feet to the fire over what is clearly a defective brick and therefore defective battery as a whole? I'm not going to intentionally harm the battery or try to make it fail, but if getting to a 20% CAC imbalance is what it takes, I'm going to hope for the best (worst?) over the next 6 months.


Thanks again to all on here, especially those that stuck with me through all that. Really appreciate any insights you all may have.
 

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Anyone's thoughts on this would be much appreciated. Thanks.

Since Tesla says it is normal, trade it in and get the 5K bonus if it has FUSC. I'm finding the new MS LR is worth the upgrade, esp at today's prices.

Or, keep it until it dies. Once nearly past warranty, sign up for the WK057 plan.

Despite the fact you have somehow found a knowledgeable and truthfully service rep, you are not going to have much luck with Tesla replacing your battery until your car won't drive.

There is a greater than zero chance they will replace it with a less than healthy reman pack since you have less than normal range. It could die again a few months after the warranty expires.
 
With a 20% CAC imbalance, the only reason you're still mobile is because the BMS thinks this is a false reading and likely has some other variables to back that up. If it is a real imbalance, you'll be stuck well before September. Just take a supercharger trip where you charge from low to high back to back a few times and you're almost guaranteed to get stuck.

Once nearly past warranty, sign up for the WK057 plan.

The BMD would reject this pack, unfortunately.

Edit: Oh, and yeah I second @aerodyne's suggestion: Just trade it in and let them deal with it if you have path there that makes sense for you.
 
With a 20% CAC imbalance, the only reason you're still mobile is because the BMS thinks this is a false reading and likely has some other variables to back that up. If it is a real imbalance, you'll be stuck well before September. Just take a supercharger trip where you charge from low to high back to back a few times and you're almost guaranteed to get stuck.



The BMD would reject this pack, unfortunately.

Edit: Oh, and yeah I second @aerodyne's suggestion: Just trade it in and let them deal with it if you have path there that makes sense for you.
Thanks, I’ve done several supercharges including 8 of them on a 1000 mile round trip last month, hasn’t shut down on me yet. Done a couple supercharges at single digit charge percentages up past 90% as well. It’s been almost 6 months of progressive worsening, though the rate has slowed recently. Nothing gives me assurance that I’ll be throwing error codes before September.

Even if it’s not a real imbalance, the BMS is preventing 20-30 miles of charging/range from happening and is truly nerfing our trips both in terms of useable range and supercharging speeds.

So I guess my question boils down to: if the BMS thinks this imbalance isn’t real, but I have brick-level data and real world driving situations that suggest it is, how do I “convince” the BMS, and ultimately my service center, that something is wrong? To counter that, if nothing is wrong, why won’t the battery/BMS rebalance with cycling and time?

If it doesn’t fail under warranty, I plan to trade it in prior to it expiration. But Tesla also revoked the FUSC after taking it back from the first owner and then selling it at auction to the dealer I purchased from. So no bonus for that and not much value for a 2015 with 120k miles. I’d be very happy with this car for a long time to come if the battery could even bounce back to prior to its precipitous decline (240ish miles).
 
Quick update for anyone out there battling a worsening brick imbalance:

Things gradually continued to worsen with the imbalance and we reached what by my calculations (ScanMyTesla data) was the unofficial 20% CAC imbalance that the SC tech said would be considered defective. BUT, before I could find a reasonable time to request another service appointment for a recheck, I got a BMS_u018 "Maximum battery charge level reduced" error.

Of course I made a service center appointment immediately, and when I arrived I was quickly informed I'd be getting a new HV battery under warranty! So that definitely made my day. They'll have the car for a couple weeks. I don't have an invoice to note what part# I'm getting, but the service center thought it would be new, not reman. Not sure if reman 90 packs exist (I hope for the sake of their original crappiness that they don't).

I'll update when I know more, but obviously super excited either way. For those out there, it does seem like reaching the 20% CAC imbalance threshold is at least a significant calculation to trigger these critical BMS errors. Perhaps it's at least something that individuals can monitor to gauge a trajectory toward ultimate failure.
 
It seems like I have identical situation but car normally works even I have 434mV unbalence on one cell... SC gave me advice that I should do couple of cycle and ballancing procedure with L1 AC charger. I did balance procedure and many of cycles but i doesn't help. Now problem is increasing but car is normally working. I have setup second service appointment and we will see after official Tesla diagnostic result. I have also warranty but till half of May 2023. In my car more than 15kWh just evaporated and now I am using car as 60kWh battery pack even I have 85kWh pack originally. In 85kWh pack I have only 57kWh nominal full pack, super slow charging on SuC and no more than 187miles range on SOC 100%.
 
It seems like I have identical situation but car normally works even I have 434mV(598mV in deep discharge) unbalence on one cell... SC gave me advice that I should do couple of cycle and ballancing procedure with L1 AC charger. I did balance procedure and many of cycles but i doesn't help. Now problem is increasing but car is normally working. I have setup second service appointment and we will see after official Tesla diagnostic result. I have also warranty but till half of May 2023. In my car more than 15kWh just evaporated and now I am using car as 60kWh battery pack even I have 85kWh pack originally. In 85kWh pack I have only 57kWh nominal full pack, super slow charging on SuC and no more than 187miles range on SOC 100%.
 

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@ajadan - could you help me how you calculate this 20% => "1) I assume CAC imbalance is calculated as (max-min)/max? If so, we're at about 19.3% imbalance right now. If it's (max-min)/avg, then we're well over 20%. Someone correct me if there's a known proper (per Tesla) way to calculate."
I haven't "Ah" values on Scan my Tesla Android version app and can't run Scan my Tesla app on iPhone because no compatible hardware and car is now in SC. On Android version I have only imbalance in mV value.
 
@ajadan - could you help me how you calculate this 20% => "1) I assume CAC imbalance is calculated as (max-min)/max? If so, we're at about 19.3% imbalance right now. If it's (max-min)/avg, then we're well over 20%. Someone correct me if there's a known proper (per Tesla) way to calculate."
I haven't "Ah" values on Scan my Tesla Android version app and can't run Scan my Tesla app on iPhone because no compatible hardware and car is now in SC. On Android version I have only imbalance in mV value.

I’m on the iOS SMT app, but I would assume the same data is available on the android version. After some period of time with data coming in (usually 2-5 minutes) that app calculates CACmax, CACmin, CACimbalance, and CACavg values as well as identifying which bricks are min and max (The brick ID is almost always wrong). This appears for me in both the “battery” and “bms” signal lists. From there I calculate (max-min)/max or imbalance/max and convert to a %. See pics of the data from my first post in this thread.
 
In Scan my Tesla I see only that nominal full pack is now 57kWh but normal should be average around 72-73kWh. If you calculate as (72kWH-57kWh)/72kWh is more than 20%.
What you’re referring to here is overall degradation and total energy capacity loss. This may well be due to all 96 bricks losing some capacity equally, which is not warranted on older Tesla batteries, but rather considered normal wear and tear. It may also be due to a brick imbalance, but we’ll need more info (CAC max and min) to confirm.

What the BMS and Tesla seem to care about and what throws errors (specifically the BMS_u018 error) is the imbalance between any one brick and the other 95, so we are calculating that using these CAC values that are specific to each brick. 20% imbalance between the best and worst bricks seems to be the target.

Brick imbalance also has the effect of “reducing” range and capacity as the bms seems to calculate available energy and range based off the worst brick (to protect it at low voltages?) even though up to 95/96 bricks have plenty of energy left in them.
 
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Tesla isn’t going to help you until the car throws an error.

Were I you I’d spend the rest of the rapidly dwindling warranty period abusing the crud out of the battery - take a long trip with lots of supercharges and no breaks in between. Make it fail.
^^^ This. Time for some long road trips, but not too far from a SvC. If the cars shuts down suddenly with Range left, Tesla will have to do something.
 
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I’m on the iOS SMT app, but I would assume the same data is available on the android version. After some period of time with data coming in (usually 2-5 minutes) that app calculates CACmax, CACmin, CACimbalance, and CACavg values as well as identifying which bricks are min and max (The brick ID is almost always wrong). This appears for me in both the “battery” and “bms” signal lists. From there I calculate (max-min)/max or imbalance/max and convert to a %. See pics of the data from my first post in this thread.
I've been having some battery issues lately, (see my thread here for background) and am trying to run some diagnostics per this and other threads to get an idea of what's going on or if my battery is potentially failing.

I can't seem to figure out how to get these CAC numbers discussed in this and other threads though. You mention CACmax, min, imbalance, avg, are all "calculated" and displayed by the SMT app after a few minutes of connection. I've left it running for long periods of time, and can never see anything related to CAC. Are these called something else in the Android version? (I don't have any Apple devices to try). Might these values not exist for my car? (Oct 2017 Model S75)
 
I've been having some battery issues lately, (see my thread here for background) and am trying to run some diagnostics per this and other threads to get an idea of what's going on or if my battery is potentially failing.

I can't seem to figure out how to get these CAC numbers discussed in this and other threads though. You mention CACmax, min, imbalance, avg, are all "calculated" and displayed by the SMT app after a few minutes of connection. I've left it running for long periods of time, and can never see anything related to CAC. Are these called something else in the Android version? (I don't have any Apple devices to try). Might these values not exist for my car? (Oct 2017 Model S75)
I have been wondering the same thing, I'm using the Android version, and not the beta version of the app. I also have an older car, a 2016 S90D.
 
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I've also had a rapid loss in range for the last months, however I just got the scanmytesla cable and app last week and I don't have much for imbalances.
Can some explain the Nominal Full Pack number... Mine reads 62.7 kWh, for my 2015 P90D what should it be?
 

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