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Interesting, we have not seen this condition. I'd like to get more details and document it. Generally the car can take a few minutes and start up, never had anyone that needed to reboot. Also if you can reboot, the mcu is not totally dead yet. as a dead one wont reboot.
Mine was about 3 wks out of warranty and Tesla fixed it under warranty... I argued this is a quite common issue, and it would have been exposed under warranty if no COVID19 SIP. Best luck!
HankLloydRight
No Roads
Wait, what? How far is the SC? Are you out of warranty? I need to get my car towed to the SC here which is 45 minutes away to get the MCU repaired and some other things, so should I expect a tow bill? Otherwise, I'll just call AAA instead.
OK, so this is the experience I was having. Note that it's told from my personal observations, so any conclusions I'm drawing are limited to that. When the MCU went out, the car would be very slow to power up the next day. It would almost always show the slide up notification on the IC that says, "Please wait as systems power up" or equivalent. That would stay up until I depressed the brake again after a reasonable period of time, at which point it would slide back down and the car would be on. If I depressed the brake earlier than that, it would stay up.
After a week or so, what I would see after a longer sleep period would be that the car wouldn't start up at all. I wouldn't get that notification when I pressed the brake. The brake would depress deeply, as if power brake was working, but nothing would happen. I tried everything during this time with no success, until I finally tried holding the scroll wheels and "resetting" the dead MCU. The MCU stayed black. Nothing seemed to change, except that when I depressed the brake after a period of time, I'd get the slide up notification and it would act as in the paragraph above. That was a repeatable process, and when we went on a camping trip, I was able to do it each morning to get the car to "wake."
This morning, after the car had been sitting undriven for weeks, depressing the brake would give me a deep depress, but after some time it would push back up, as if power braking (or whatever allows the brake pedal to easily depress) turned back off. I never got a splash screen, my scroll wheel reset didn't work, scroll wheels with brake didn't work, top button IC reset didn't work, etc. I tried everything for an hour, including holding the brake for a full 10 minutes even after it pushed my foot back up (Tesla's suggestion). Eventually I disconnected the 12V battery terminal for 5 minutes, reconnected it, and the car powered up as in my first paragraph above.
My car failed 3 months out of warranty. So yes, I'm out of warranty now. The $340 was Tesla's quote to me to tow my X 35 minutes to my SC. They said it wouldn't be covered for repair reasons, and that's what instigated me to remove the frunk bucket and disconnect the 12V. My tow quote might have been higher because I was nosed into my garage and the car was unable to be moved, due to having no ability to put it in neutral. They would have had to use dollies.
Either way, the way it worked was that they provided me a quote and asked for me to approve prior to sending anyone out. You can give that a shot, or as you mention, use AAA. Unless you're under warranty, in which case you're all set by letting them foot the bill.
I'm 10,000 miles out of warranty and Tesla is replacing my Tegra daughterboard under warranty. I guess it's because I originally complained about the rebooting and crashing before the warranty expired. It's only been getting worse.
Akikiki
A'-Lo-HA ! y'all
Maybe so Amped, but you are famous. I would have approved it under warranty.
Was able to contact SC and let them know it had one gone out for several minutes. With no HVAC and turning signals lights along with the noise. Little did they know I had recorded. Just incase.
I brought it in and the stated they would replace it since im on the extended warranty.
They come back and ask when last time it happened because they are unable to replicate it. So they may not replace or service it for a fee.
So I said, I recorded and let them know its happened several times. I also let them know it was a safety issue and should be done as preventative measure and under the extended warranty. They quickly changed their tune after I sent them the vid.
So they went ahead and ordered the part and replaced it. It took about a week for them to complete. Just in time before the extended warranty goes. I'd say my purchase of the ESA has paid for its self. $200 dollar deductible is what I paid.
I brought it in and the stated they would replace it since im on the extended warranty.
They come back and ask when last time it happened because they are unable to replicate it. So they may not replace or service it for a fee.
So I said, I recorded and let them know its happened several times. I also let them know it was a safety issue and should be done as preventative measure and under the extended warranty. They quickly changed their tune after I sent them the vid.
So they went ahead and ordered the part and replaced it. It took about a week for them to complete. Just in time before the extended warranty goes. I'd say my purchase of the ESA has paid for its self. $200 dollar deductible is what I paid.
@bayareadriver, yes, I am sorry to say, afraid so for you, the wait is bad. One option you might want to consider is the MCU2 Upgrade. On your year car, for the price, you car will literally become a new car - or equal to one. You will capitalize on all those cameras yourself that the car currently uses. I sincerely mean it when I say its worth it even if MCU1 and MCU2 parts arrived at the same time. Yes, even though I know you are still under warranty. Hope it works out for you. Keep us in the loop. We are all family here
Just to follow up - I drove to the service center to request an appointment and got scheduled for a week later. Dropped my car off, they diagnosed and ordered the part (daughterboard, 64GB) which took about 1 week to arrive, and then spent 2 days installing it. And they applied the UV treatment for the yellow border on the screen. So all in all, my car was in the shop for around 9 calendar days. This is in the Bay Area, California. Had to clean up all the ash on my car afterwards (due to the California wildfires).
Akikiki
A'-Lo-HA ! y'all
If charging is acting peculiar, at least for a week or so, I would reduce my charge limit by 5-10% just to make a change even small. But I would certainly turn off scheduled charging for a little while. We've seen scheduled charging affect the ability to charge. Cost nothing to try just to be safe. I would.
I do. The order paperwork they sent me for that daughterboard part number states 64GB.
Unfortunately I had to return (here now) because there was no audio, even for turn signals, and voice wouldn’t work.
No such luck. They sent me home, and they have to look at it again. At least they gave me a loaner this time.
Ahh. So they save the loaners for the 3rd/4th attempt at a fix
It's just a "random" 4 digit hex value in a text file... but it is paired to the car's security module, so must match unless it gets reset for some remote functionality to work.
Eg,
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