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Could use some help before I visit repair shop re a nail in a tire

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SteveG3

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Sep 21, 2012
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I don't have a lot of experience with what's repairable vs. in need of replacement in these circumstances and could use a hand.

attached is a photo of the nail in the tire.

when I found it I called Tesla's 800 number and they told me their policy was strictly replacements, no repairs. I've had a tire in a Subaru repaired, and as the guy who helped me out said at the time, the repair was nothing to worry about at all.

now, I don't know if Tesla's policy is simply very conservative, or if it reflects the difference between the run of the mill tires on the Subaru and the tires on my Roadster (Yokohama 175/55 R16 80W).

is this being a high performance tire an issue? I don't want to do anything foolish to save some money, but I also don't want to walk into the repair shop totally ignorant and susceptible to them playing games to sell the guy with the expensive car new tires.
IMG_0876.jpg
 
I believe as long as it isn't in the sidewalk or corner, it can be repaired with a plug. But then you wouldn't want to do any crazy stuff with a plug in your tires, but it should be fine for normal driving. That being said, your tires don't look like there is much tread on them. Might want to get them measured.

thanks for the response. not doing crazy stuff with the car, in fact, it gets used quite lightly.

as to the tire treads: you're right that they're worn some. I bought the car a little over a year ago, and had a Tesla service center in the Bay area inspect it before the purchase... they said this tire was 5, 5, 4 (the only tire with a 4). local service center here on the east coast measured as all 6s when I did an annual after I bought the car. kind of raises other questions, lols.

given that I really put very little miles per year (hundreds, not thousands) and replacing would probably mean replacing at least two tires, I'm considering a plug. that said, this is an area I'm pretty ignorant about, so opinions from anyone with more knowledge are welcome.
 
I got a nail in the same place, and the repair was fine for the several months before I got new tires (rear - they go so fast!). The repair was done, however, by removing the tire, and placing a patch/plug inside the tire; in addition to filling the hole, it secures the plug. Apparently this is recommended for low profile tires due to higher stresses. Not too expensive - $25. Better safe than sorry. My 2 cents.
 
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I had a nail repair (plug) at a local Les Schwab. Photo looked pretty much the same as yours (but I have more tread on the tire). This was the one time (in my life) that the TPMS system actually warned me of the issue.

Just be sure that you go to a place that can deal with the specific jacking requirements of the Roadster. I warned them ahead of time that improper jacking of the car could total it, and that woke them up! The service manager performed the repair himself (and did so properly), and all went well.
 
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I had a nail repair (plug) at a local Les Schwab. Photo looked pretty much the same as yours (but I have more tread on the tire). This was the one time (in my life) that the TPMS system actually warned me of the issue.

Just be sure that you go to a place that can deal with the specific jacking requirements of the Roadster. I warned them ahead of time that improper jacking of the car could total it, and that woke them up! The service manager performed the repair himself (and did so properly), and all went well.

I'll have to remember that line about totaling the car.

Let's see - the checklist grows:

Using the correct lift points
Not stripping/rounding the soft caps on top of the lug nuts - or the lug nuts for that matter
Torquing to the correct spec
Not damaging the rim(s)
Not damaging the car exterior or interior
Not bogarting valve stem caps (I have custom ones, saw a tech at an America's Tire pocket one and then deny it later)
Oh yeah - and repairing the tire (if reparable)

I'm glad Tesla has confirmed that they will rotate OEM (new or replacement sets regardless of source) tires. And it's nice that there are America's/Discount Tire and other decent tire shops around. Regardless, I think it's time I invested in doing rotations and (as possible) flat repairs myself.
 
I think the issue with Tesla's "replacement only" policy is that these are high performance tires and any repair will not meet specs for "high performance tires.
That said, if you only drive your mother to church on Sunday, you should be OK with a plug (provided your mother is willing to push the car if you get a flat).
 
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You don't need to take the wheel
of the car to plug the tire. If you want to put a patch on the inside then yes, but for a plug you do not need to remove the wheel/tire.

Just drive and park, or rotate the steering for a front wheel/tire, so that the site is easy to get at.
 
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You don't need to take the wheel
of the car to plug the tire. If you want to put a patch on the inside then yes, but for a plug you do not need to remove the wheel/tire.

Just drive and park, or rotate the steering for a front wheel/tire, so that the site is easy to get at.

Interesting. Whatever Les Schwab did (I thought it was a plug), they required to take the tire off so they could get to the inside. He said there was something they had to do from there. Seemed to know what he was talking about, and it's held up well so far.

If that means a patch, then that's probably the correct repair for this sort of tire. Mine was the driver's side rear, a Michelin Pilot Sport.
 
I had a nail. Took wheel/tire to my regular tire guy. He fixed while I waited, $25. The book says nothing about wheel torque, but 125 ft-lbs is right. Tesla SC told me about the nail (in for annual svc), I had not noticed anything (yet!). Yes, I have a 2+ ton jack. The tire guy's tech hinted that some of their jacks are not big enough to lift a Tesla corner...
 
The book says nothing about wheel torque, but 125 ft-lbs is right.

This is WRONG for the TESLA ROADSTER!

DO NOT torque the lugs down to 125ft lbs at all or else you'll damage things, bend rotors, lug nuts can sheer off, rims can break and fail, and if that doesn't happen most likely you'll never get the wheel off again. The proper torque for the Tesla Roadster is: 77ft-lbs.

Wheels; Replacing The Wheel; Removing The Wheel - Tesla Roadster 2 Owner's Manual [Page 81]

Its the same torque specs as the Lotus Elise.

PLEASE VERIFY the CORRECT forum you're posting in, posting incorrect information for the wrong forum/car can prove to be quite dangerous. The 125 ft-lbs you're talking about must be for the Model-S, and that's a little off, its actually 129 ft-lbs to torque down the Model-S wheels:

The Tesla Model S Wheel Guide - Tsportline
 
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