I have less vehicles than you and no boats, ATVs, but I just pay registrations online and do license renewals by mail. No problems from recent memory paying any of the bills, knock on wood.
Smog is annoying, but another reason to get EVs and never deal with that again (CA problem). Newer cars also don't require smog if you go ICE, but if you have like 7 or 8 things that are old, you're going to have more stuff to deal with in general.
I've called SDG&E for stuff and they still haven't responded to my issue.
Maybe your one case for that non-op vehicle is giving you a sense it's far worst.
I pay online when I'm allowed but sometimes the DMV requires the renewal to be mailed (and they don't tell you that until you enter the data to pay online). And for some reason you can only checkout one item at a time if you use your checking account to pay online.
The smog check itself isn't what I have a problem with, it is the requirement for the vehicle to be ready for a smog check that creates the problem. One of my vehicles is a 2000 one ton truck that I use to haul my 4000 lb truck camper and tow my boat, and for hauling large items when necessary. I only put a few thousand miles on it a year. If the battery is disconnected it loses it's memory and you have to complete a drive cycle to get it ready for smog. Here is the GM drive cycle:
Notice that it says it could take up to 5 cycles to complete. I live in a rural area in the hills and need to take it down to the valley to have a safe area to perform the drive cycles. And it takes about half a tank of gas to get it to get it ready for a smog check. I have a 34 gallon tank so you can imagine the cost plus I have to dedicate an afternoon (and burning gas to pass a smog check sort of defeats the purpose). And sometimes it takes more. I took the truck to LA and back once and it wasn't ready for a smog check until it was halfway back since you have to complete all of the items in the cycle. And keep in mind that it isn't just when the battery dies (if you let the battery get low enough to struggle to start the engine it will clear the drive cycles), it is anytime you disconnect the battery for doing maintenance. And my normal driving for what I use this truck for doesn't always reset the drive cycle, I've gone for over a year without it being ready for smog. And this system was approved by the state when the vehicle was approved for sale in California. I have to go through this almost every other year.
And if you don't get the smog check by the time the registration expires (the DMV still requires you to send in your payment to avoid penalties) you have to get a temporary operating permit that costs $50 and is only good for 60 days. And they won't take your word that it isn't ready for a smog check (there isn't a light on the dash that tells you this - you have to use a code reader), you have to take it to a smog station, pay to fail the test, and then go to the DMV and pay your $50 to get the permit and hope you can get it ready within 60 days.
Now you might say I should by a new truck (and I'm considering it), perhaps an EV. First, show me an EV that can haul my 4000 lb truck camper plus boat over the Donner summit or anywhere summit in the Sierras to a no hookup campground and then bring everything back home. But it is hard to justify the cost for just a few thousand miles a year. And it just isn't the initial cost, it is the annual registration fees (new 1 ton trucks cost a lot to register) and insurance. I've done a financial evaluation and it would be cheaper for us to get rid of my wife's fuel efficient car and just drive the truck even with its worse gas mileage.
While you got me on it, I'll give you another example of an ongoing problem. My boat still has my ex wife listed as co-owner. We've been divorced for decades. I brought the DMV my divorce settlement that states I get the boat. They say I need to get her to sign a release to take her off as co-owner. I told them I have no idea where she lives or if she is even still alive. They said I need to show proof that I attempted to contact her (i.e., private investigator report or something) and fill out some form and pay a fee. And what am I supposed to do if I find here and she refuses to sign? I've come to the conclusion that I'm going to own that boat until I die and it will be my current wife's problem or the executor of my estate's problem.
I could provide many more examples of the state bureaucracy. Again, you are going to have a hard time the state can efficiently run a utility company.
I've had a house in a rural area before and was never asked terrain and home hardening questions. Is this common already, or are insurance companies just now starting to do these systems to differentiate houses in rural/forested areas?
On a related note, when I signed up for new HO insurance recently, I was asked whether various aspects of the house had been "renovated." Like, how could they possibly identify risk from a rank amateur's statement that part of the house has been "renovated." That suggests to me that HO models probably aren't based on very accurate data if it is just coming from a homeowner's assertions. All they did to verify was to send someone out to take photos of the house from the outside. Either their modeling data isn't that accurate, or it actually doesn't affect risk that much.
The modeling takes terrain, vegetation, accessibility, etc. into account when they develop a FireLine score:
FireLine examines wildfire risk factors—fuel, slope, access, and wind, combined with property and community-level mitigation analytics.
www.verisk.com
The FAIR plan bases the insurance premium on your fireline score among other things. It is based on factors around your address and there is nothing you as an individual can do to change it. They don't ask you about your terrain, they just use the score. As I mentioned my main frustration is that there is nothing you can do to verify they used the correct data when they develop a score for your address. I.e., if their data shows that you live on a dead end road but you don't there isn't any way for you to verify their data doesn't show you living on a dead end road. When I first signed up for the FAIR plan I got a quote that wasn't much higher than what I was paying with Farmers. When I got the contract the premium was significantly higher than the quote. It turns my insurance agent put a typo in the address (they asked for the address in three different places, it was correct in two of the places but two digits were transposed in the third). The FireLine score for the non-existent address was lower than my actual address.
Insurance companies in high wildfire areas are starting to inspect for defensible space and home hardening (class A roofing, enclosed eves, non-flammable siding, approved vents, etc.). The FAIR plan sent me a checklist for what I needed to do to receive discounts for defensible space and home hardening in my renewal notice however they didn't define the details. They also had notice of a surcharge for an undisclosed reason and amount stating that I needed to make an undisclosed correction to avoid the surcharge. They are impossible to reach and don't respond to emails so I don't know if I meet their definitions of home hardening. My insurance agent said just say you meet the requirements and send the attestation to him along with the surcharge notice so he could send it to them. That was in November and I haven't heard back. My annual premium was due January 26 but I just received the official bill today (I paid it online before I got my bill to avoid being uninsured). No discounts for home hardening or defensible space and no explination of what I need to do to avoid the surcharge. Typical bureaucracy.