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From the video description:
Update: If you need a constant 12V source instead of 5V, use a buck-boost regulator. Something like this http://a.co/3Uryov0 I was thinking most dashcams are using 5V, but apparently some really do require 12V (e.g. Blackvue)
May be able to get away with a simple 5v to 12v converter like:
http://a.co/7IElcEw
One thing to note is a Blackvue at ~4W is more than twice as much power as the cam in that video is pulling. But assuming you can source that much power from the same wire, should work.
HankLloydRight
No Roads
There's no need to go from 12v to 5v and back to 12v. The problem the video tries to solve is that the car drops to 9v when the car goes to sleep, not enough to run a dashcam. He's using a 5v regulator that takes 9v to 12v and drops it to a steady 5v for his dashcam.
If you have a 12v dashcam, just as the video description suggests, use a buck-boost regulator to take the range of 9v to 13.9v the car outputs and convert that to a steady 12v.
I think blackvues connected directly to the car's 12v battery is the reason why the car throws up errors. There have been reports that other dashcams (thinkware) that have been connected to the 12v for 6+ months without any issues. IIRC, thinkwares use half the power that blackvues do. Its too bad that blackvues have the best feature set and cloud connectivity.
This is also addressed in the video description:
Note: I have not tested this long-term, but my guess is that the car won't be "surprised" by a power draw connecting to either of these locations since they are downstream from the power distribution system. Bypassing the power distribution system by connecting directly to the 12V battery has given some people errors (from what I've read on forums) since the car detects any voltage drop at the battery (other than it's own usage) as a problem with the battery.
Ah missed that since I watched it directly from the forum, thanks. Tempted to give this a try. Although there havent really been reports of the battery warning the last couple months. Have people just stopped wiring directly to the battery or could it have been an issue with either earlier built cars or an earlier firmware?
A number of installers have said that they won't hook directly to the battery anymore because of the problems they have run into afterwards.
Got it. Im willing to test out this new method as I was about to do an install directly to the 12v battery. So would I just need to buy these two items?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HB9NP0Y
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HHCW3WG/
Connect the red wire of the buck boost to the 18 gauge wire with fuse which is connected to the 9V constant. Yellow wire of the buck boost goes to the dash cam? Black wires are ground and connected to the car chassis and the dash cam ground wire
HankLloydRight
No Roads
that sounds about right... but I'd suggest using a tab fuse instead of the old glass barrel fuse.. like this:
https://www.amazon.com/ATO-Fuse-Holder-Indicator-Wire/dp/B01N1FA01T
Also, I wouldn't connect the two ground wire on the buck-boost -- just run those two output wires (yellow/black) to the dashcam power and not chassis ground.
https://www.amazon.com/ATO-Fuse-Holder-Indicator-Wire/dp/B01N1FA01T
Also, I wouldn't connect the two ground wire on the buck-boost -- just run those two output wires (yellow/black) to the dashcam power and not chassis ground.
Thanks, so are you suggesting to run the ground wire from the dash cam directly to the car chassis? Also, what amperage should the fuse be? I currently bought this set to get ready to wire directly to my 12V, but I could just cut it up and use it for this project instead. Comes with a 15amp fuse. Is 16 awg too thick?
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HankLloydRight
No Roads
No, I'm saying the exact opposite. The voltage regulator inputs (red/black) can be to +12v and chassis ground. The outputs (yellow/black) should be run directly to the dashcam -- NOT chassis ground.
If it's just the dashcam, I'd say 5A would be more than enough. Also no wire can be "too thick" (within reason) for this application. Wires can be too thin.
Remember, "Elon/Tesla-Time"
I wired it straight to the battery, had no issues for 4 months until we left the car sitting for 2 weeks. I have the infamous "12V battery needs to be replaced." 
If we leave the car sitting for more than a couple of days, we'll just disconnect it in the future.
If we leave the car sitting for more than a couple of days, we'll just disconnect it in the future.
Ah yeah, thats what I was thinking of doing but I guess I didnt explain it well enough.
Sounds good - should I go get a smaller fuse or can I just use the 15A that came with it?
HankLloydRight
No Roads
Definitely get a smaller fuse! A 15A fuse, if there's a short, it could quickly burn up some wiring or other components before a 15A fuse blows.
Just get something like this for $12:
https://www.amazon.com/DIGITEN-Assorted-Inline-circuit-Adapter/dp/B01G8HUTCW
