Welcome to Tesla Motors Club
Discuss Tesla's Model S, Model 3, Model X, Model Y, Cybertruck, Roadster and More.
Register

Dashcam Install Help

This site may earn commission on affiliate links.
Yes, I have. When/if the 12V battery gets low enough, the main battery pack comes online and recharges it. You won't come back to a dead 12V battery. The only possible downside to the always-on cam is that you will put more cycles on the 12V battery quicker (but with the dashcam only pulling ~200mA, it's not going to be a huge difference), and possibly shorten it's lifespan. The way I see it, Tesla 12V batteries aren't known for their longevity, anyway.


It will trash your 12V as it cycles it deeper on average. If you use a tender on your 12V it will last many years but the dash cams not only cause higher 12V parasitic loads they cycle the charging system more causing increased pack drain as those traction pack cycles are more wasteful as they are long. By using a battery tender I got my pack loses down from a few percent a day to 1% every few days. Anyone that thinks they need a dash cam on when the car is off may consider a delay timer or a alternative battery source. The dash cams have very poor power management and motion detection. IMO the parking modes are pretty bad and not well developed since motion requires the cam to be on. The cams should have a dual wire feature that allows them to cycle down after a short time but have the hard power for impact detection, this would allow that feature with zero standby drain and ability to wake on impact. The product development on these devices is more reactionary than innovative. This type of feature would allow a valuable feature with no compromise on power draw, essentially you can have ignition on use and sleep timer AND wake on impact. This could also be done another way with software but It makes more sense.
 
Last edited:
It will trash your 12V as it cycles it deeper on average. If you use a tender on your 12V it will last many years but the dash cams not only cause higher 12V parasitic loads they cycle the charging system more causing increased pack drain as those traction pack cycles are more wasteful as they are long. By using a battery tender I got my pack loses down from a few percent a day to 1% every few days. Anyone that thinks they need a dash cam on when the car is off may consider a delay timer or a alternative battery source. The dash cams have very poor power management and motion detection. IMO the parking modes are pretty bad and not well developed since motion requires the cam to be on. The cams should have a dual wire feature that allows them to cycle down after a short time but have the hard power for impact detection, this would allow that feature with zero standby drain and ability to wake on impact. The product development on these devices is more reactionary than innovative. This type of feature would allow a valuable feature with no compromise on power draw, essentially you can have ignition on use and sleep timer AND wake on impact. This could also be done another way with software but It makes more sense.
I've carefully considered the repercussions, and concluded I don't really care if it shaves some time off the life of my 12V battery. I really don't think it's causing the battery to cycle that much more often, because I haven't noticed any effect on overall range. Just not worth worrying about, IMO.
 
All.....

I wanted to send a positive review on a product I purchased from hanklloydright. He posted (on Page 23, post #461, on July 18th, 2018) two versions of wireless remotes. I purchased/installed Version One and it works like a champ.

I have a Model 3 and I was afraid of the dreaded Battery Warning when using my dashcam in parking mode. I purchased a Cellink NEO Backup Battery (identical to the Blackvue B124).

However I didn't want my battery to continuously/fully discharge in my own garage....I felt this was a needless life shortening event for my NEO Battery which costs $300.

Now I use hanklloydright's wireless remote to alleviate that concern. I programmed it in Homelink so I can control the remote with the M3's screen. I also enabled Auto Open so as I approach my house, Homelink shuts off the power automatically.

Very helpful product and very easy to wire inline between your Backup Battery and dashcam. I used these little guys to connect the spliced wires. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HT9XJLW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 
I don't know why everyone is complicating this so much. Hardwiring the camera to map/hazard lights area is free, and takes about 5 minutes. I've been running it like this for months with no issues.
Yes same here. Been running fine since late September. Plus my car is always sitting in the garage with less than 700 miles with the camera running at all times.
 
You know the answer to that question. Not everyone has been as fortunate as you and others are not willing to risk a problem.
Can you reference examples of people who have had problems hard wiring to the dome light? I ask because I’m getting ready to do this, as soon as I find time, and have been curious if there are any reported problems. So far I’ve only come across positive stories. Thanks.
 
  • Like
Reactions: preilly44
It has nothing to do with being fortunate... If you hardwire it to the hazard light instead of directly to the 12V battery, you will not have an issue, period.

As long as the camera you are installing can deal with the voltage dropping from 12v to 9v when the car goes to sleep. (At least that is my understanding of what happens.)
 
Can you reference examples of people who have had problems hard wiring to the dome light? I ask because I’m getting ready to do this, as soon as I find time, and have been curious if there are any reported problems. So far I’ve only come across positive stories. Thanks.

theres been no reported problems, thus far, from wiring to the headliner. The only question is if your dash cam can support a voltage drop from 12v to 9v, which blackvues seem to support
 
theres been no reported problems, thus far, from wiring to the headliner. The only question is if your dash cam can support a voltage drop from 12v to 9v, which blackvues seem to support

I have been running my Blackvue 900 dual front-rear for 3+ months using the 12V tap (black-yellow) in the headliner at the emergency flasher button without a single problem. No shutdowns, goes into Parking Mode and resumes normal recording just fine. The Blackvue does not mind the drop to 9V. All good.

Anybody want to buy an unused new-in-box Blackvue battery pack? I bought it thinking I would need it, but have never installed it.