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DC - DC converter / AC compressor repair

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Well, I'm happy to report I now have working air conditioning:

After scraping what of the old sealant I could off with a razor blade, I decided there was a better way to get the material out of the recessed channel:
2020-07-05_16-57-32_331.jpeg


Cleaned up:
2020-07-05_17-02-58_989.jpeg


And the main chassis (I used a large putty knife to shield the electronics/wiring while I hit it with the wire wheel:
2020-07-05_17-17-34_376.jpeg


New bead of sealant:
2020-07-05_17-32-35_963.jpeg


Buttoned back up:
2020-07-05_17-38-33_428.jpeg


Re-installed:
2020-07-11_16-28-07_578.jpeg


No HVIL issues, and fired right up once I reconnected the 12V and service loop.

Thanks to those who provided info on this, and chimed on on my HVIL lead repair.
 
awesome

Well, I'm happy to report I now have working air conditioning:

After scraping what of the old sealant I could off with a razor blade, I decided there was a better way to get the material out of the recessed channel:
View attachment 564005

Cleaned up:
View attachment 564006

And the main chassis (I used a large putty knife to shield the electronics/wiring while I hit it with the wire wheel:
View attachment 564007

New bead of sealant:
View attachment 564008

Buttoned back up:
View attachment 564009

Re-installed:
View attachment 564010

No HVIL issues, and fired right up once I reconnected the 12V and service loop.

Thanks to those who provided info on this, and chimed on on my HVIL lead repair.
 
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Reactions: scaesare
has anyone had Tesla replace the fuses as per service bulletin noted earlier?
Which service bulletin? Tesla does not replace fuses in the dc/dc converter or the on board charger. They will however charge you an insane stupid high price for a refurbished or new unit at full price. I bought 4 extra a50p50-4 fuses just in case I need to replace them again on my charger or dc/dc converter.
 
Good day all,

I am back at my local Tesla Service Center to check on the persisting A/C issue after we replaced the bad fuse in the DC/DC converter.

Possibly news for some of you, Tesla has released a bulletin for the repair of DC/DC converter (two weeks ago), allowing the SC to refurbish the unit (replace the fuse) for more or less half the cost (labor+fuse/s) around €1400.

While, I do believe there is another issue with my A/C, which I really hope they identify now.

Also, I hope they don’t complain that we have worked in the DC/DC converter on our own.

Keep you posted.

Is this service bulletin just for your part of the world (Austria) (Europe)?

Us folks over here in the United States would love more detail as this has been a common issue and like many others I was told the dc/dc converter is not a serviceable part and tesla just replaces them. Any info would be appreciated.

@gaswalla
 
This is an excellent thread. I read all ten pages. I'm sure it will save me $1,000's in the future, as I have a gen 1 DC/DC in a Nov 2013 build car.

The continuity checks using a electric meter shown in the YouTube video


These checks can be performed while the unit is still in the car, saving the hassle of opening and closing the unit to check for blown fuses.

Also, for safety, you may want to check if there is greater than 10 volts from positive to ground on all the connections, insuring that disconnecting the fireman's loop (high voltage) was successful prior to beginning work and disassembly, as mentioned in an earlier post.
 
Hear a lot of people complaining that their A/C compressor is making a lot of noise. Has someone tried to open an old compressor to look for defects or worn out bearings?

"A lot of noise" is normal when the A/C compressor runs at high speed. It's more noticeable than other cars since we don't have the sound of an internal combustion engine covering it up, plus the compressor isn't mounted to a heavy, stiff engine block that's vibrating at a different frequency on its own.

I wouldn't mess with it unless it was noticeably different than it's been in the past at the same compressor speed.
 
  • Informative
Reactions: Gtech
You have the 2nd generation DC-DC converter with separate Forward Junction Box. See Post #66 in this thread.

Thanks, I actually fixed it without actually doing anything since all the fuses were good.
I pulled the fireman's loop cable and then disconnected the 12v battery and let it sit for like half an hour then reconnected everything and it's worked fine ever since. So it's one of those it works and I don't know why situations
 
I've read through the entire thread and haven't see any pictures of the location of the converter in the newer cars. Does anyone have any pictures or a good descriptive location. The fuses are in some type of junction box?