DC - DC converter / AC compressor repair

[MP3Mike]

so after tearing apart the dash and getting the heater out, that I have 177 volts going to each terminal within the heater, does this mean that my DC/DC converter is still working and the heater just went out?.

That doesn't sound right to me. I think the heater should be getting full battery DC voltage which would be 350-400volts. So that makes it sound like the fuse is bad too me. And maybe the lower voltage causes higher current in the heater which is why it commonly fails at the same time.

So if you replace the heater with the fuse bad it is possible it will just blow up your replacement heater.

 

[mongo]

That doesn't sound right to me. I think the heater should be getting full battery DC voltage which would be 350-400volts. So that makes it sound like the fuse is bad too me. And maybe the lower voltage causes higher current in the heater which is why it commonly fails at the same time.

So if you replace the heater with the fuse bad it is possible it will just blow up your replacement heater.

177 going to each terminal doesn't sound like the right desciption/ measurement. Terminal to terminal would be 350ish.

Ya'll be carefull with >350kVA of short cirucit capacity.

 

[Hoov330]

That doesn't sound right to me. I think the heater should be getting full battery DC voltage which would be 350-400volts. So that makes it sound like the fuse is bad too me. And maybe the lower voltage causes higher current in the heater which is why it commonly fails at the same time.

So if you replace the heater with the fuse bad it is possible it will just blow up your replacement heater.

Each terminal has appox 177V (terminal to ground) Terminal to terminal is 346V

 

[Hoov330]

Please post your result. I still have not fixed mine. I spoke to a Tech at the Service Center. He said probably the heater and fuse are blown. He said this is typical.

I received heater today, will let you know. If it dont work I will replace fuses in DC/DC converter, If it does work, I will replace fuses with new as a maintenance precaution anyways.

 

[MP3Mike]

Each terminal has appox 177V (terminal to ground) Terminal to terminal is 346V

I may be wrong, but I thought the HV was supposed to isolated from everything else in the car. So you should only get voltage between the two terminals.

Are you sure it was 177v and not 177mv?

 

[mongo]

I may be wrong, but I thought the HV was supposed to isolated from everything else in the car. So you should only get voltage between the two terminals.

Are you sure it was 177v and not 177mv?

With a high impedance meter, it might read the potential from HV to chassis due to the isolation check circuits.
5mA (standard GFCI limit) would be 80k Ohm, Fluke meter is 1 to 10 Mohm. No clue on actual circuit values.

 

[Hoov330]

Ok so after replacing the heater and the fuses in the DC/DC converter (which one of the the 40A was open on the OHM meter) I still have no heat, is there another fuse somewhere that controls the HVAC system that could be causing this? I am at a loss, I will re-open the converter to see if the new fuse is blown, other than that is there any way to bench test the heater?

 

[hpartsch]

Ok so after replacing the heater and the fuses in the DC/DC converter (which one of the the 40A was open on the OHM meter) I still have no heat, is there another fuse somewhere that controls the HVAC system that could be causing this? I am at a loss, I will re-open the converter to see if the new fuse is blown, other than that is there any way to bench test the heater?

I'm not sure if this will help. I have a 2013 and when my was replaced -- they replaced these:
ASY,DCDC CONVERTERHVJB,
DCDC,REFURBISHED (1458271-00-J)
1
LV SERVICE JUMPER, GEN2-GEN3 PTC
(1125464-00-A)
1
GEN3 PTC LHD SERVICE, MS LEGACY, EMC
FIX (1041265-00-E)

Maybe these other two are needed? Maybe a reprogramming of something?

 

[Hoov330]

Looks like DC/DC converter, heater, and the lead.

 

[alexbdim]

Looks like DC/DC converter, heater, and the lead.

Hey I hope this may give you another area to look at:

TESLA THERMAL CONTROLLER WITH LABEL (1034215-00-A)

I did the repair work on my DC/DC converter, which did not get the A/C to work, then at teh SC took them 8 hours of diagnostic work to identify it was the part above.
Then two weeks later the A/C stopped again, fun times, anyway, went back to the SC to get it sorted-out.
They replaced the same part so lets' see if it holds up.

 

[Hoov330]

What about a firmware, did I need a update after changing the heater? Will that cause it not to work.

 

[Hoov330]

Hey I hope this may give you another area to look at:

TESLA THERMAL CONTROLLER WITH LABEL (1034215-00-A)

I did the repair work on my DC/DC converter, which did not get the A/C to work, then at teh SC took them 8 hours of diagnostic work to identify it was the part above.
Then two weeks later the A/C stopped again, fun times, anyway, went back to the SC to get it sorted-out.
They replaced the same part so lets' see if it holds up.

I will order one to see if it works, Where is it located in the vehicle do you know?

 

[Hoov330]

I had the car remote diagnosed, the agent said there specifically a fault with the "Thermal Controller". So after ordering one of those 1034215-00-b REV AA does anybody care to send me the specifics on removal of the center display, It looks like it sits right behind the display unit so Im guessing I will have to remove that to access the Thermal control unit.

 

[alexbdim]

I had the car remote diagnosed, the agent said there specifically a fault with the "Thermal Controller". So after ordering one of those 1034215-00-b REV AA does anybody care to send me the specifics on removal of the center display, It looks like it sits right behind the display unit so Im guessing I will have to remove that to access the Thermal control unit.

Hey, sorry, I got it done twice in the SC. For sure it is behind the large display unit. I suspect that since they were working on it for this issue and the passenger airbag replacement (as per bulletin) my display has started leaking and air-bubbles have appeared.

 

[Hoov330]

OK so after replacing the Thermal controller the car comes up with all kinds of error messages, unable to start,12v low, traction control disabled , contact service,update required, ect, I cannot get the car to reboot via the steering wheel. Battery voltage is 13.2 volts. Anybody know how to do a hard reset? Also had SC send a update for the car and that didn't help. HV does not engage at all, Wondering if it may be another fuse issue in the DC/DC converter

 

[mongo]

OK so after replacing the Thermal controller the car comes up with all kinds of error messages, unable to start,12v low, traction control disabled , contact service,update required, ect, I cannot get the car to reboot via the steering wheel. Battery voltage is 13.2 volts. Anybody know how to do a hard reset? Also had SC send a update for the car and that didn't help. HV does not engage at all, Wondering if it may be another fuse issue in the DC/DC converter

Do you have any HV module covers open?

 

[Hoov330]

No I don’t think so, just replaced the Thermal controller

 

[brooce]

So, my heater has died now too. What is everyone using to reseal the converter?

 

[Gixx1300R]

So, my heater has died now too. What is everyone using to reseal the converter?

I used automotive high temp silcone

 

[Hoov330]

So, my heater has died now too. What is everyone using to reseal the converter?

High Temp Silicone, I have replaced my Heater, Thermo controller, Fuses in the DC controller and still dont work.