So a low cell in the battery was causing all the issues, everything cleared up after new intall, but heat still dont work
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I have a 2013 P85 with 96,000 miles and the heat quit. I have never had a battery issue but the day after I changed the PTC heater core I had a similar experience to yours. I was unable to drive or charge the car and the battery showed 0 miles range. Battery diagnosis showed >500mv imbalance with the #7 module row 6, a problem that was non-existent before I replaced the heater. The replacement core also did not fix the heat. Have not yet checked the DC converter fuse but will do so. Left the car on the charger for a few days and it eventually took a full charge and appears to be functioning fine now (sans heat) but have only put 50 miles on her ...we'll see. Keep posting your findings and I will do the same.
i have a similar problem, after changing the ptc heater score and the fuse I still have no heat, I wonder if the new part needs a firmware update
does anyone have a link to that bulletin about local SC allowed to do repairs in the DCDC converter?
and if it would also be possible to upload the quote for repair you got
my SC says they are not allowed to repair it but only replace it in its totality
already spent 2k on replacing compressor for my ac cooling, heating still works fine
and if it would also be possible to upload the quote for repair you got
my SC says they are not allowed to repair it but only replace it in its totality
already spent 2k on replacing compressor for my ac cooling, heating still works fine
I replaced my fuses inside my DC DC Converter last year because my heater was no longer working and my 12V was draining without charging properly. After replacement of the fuses and 12V battery, I removed all previous gasket material by scraping and sanding. Then placed a single bead of high heat RTV along the perimeter of the housing contact points.
One year later, my 12V shows similar signs of draining and the car will not always start and drive. I go back into the DC DC Converter, and find about 4 oz. of water spilling out as I crack it open. It was water and not antifreeze meaning that condensation managed to work its way inside as the converter heated up and cooled off.
Please make sure to seal off converter well. As the air expands and then later contracts, it will tend to suck in the humidity from the air
Question. As I work on my car, I see a cable hanging with a connector right below the windshield near the traction battery. Anyone know what this is and where it is supposed to connect to?
One year later, my 12V shows similar signs of draining and the car will not always start and drive. I go back into the DC DC Converter, and find about 4 oz. of water spilling out as I crack it open. It was water and not antifreeze meaning that condensation managed to work its way inside as the converter heated up and cooled off.
Please make sure to seal off converter well. As the air expands and then later contracts, it will tend to suck in the humidity from the air
Question. As I work on my car, I see a cable hanging with a connector right below the windshield near the traction battery. Anyone know what this is and where it is supposed to connect to?
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NuclearPowered
Member
My wife started complaining this morning that our 2013 P85 has no heat. Cooling is still functional as far as I can tell just looking at the temperature drop rate via the app. It seems most here have lost all heating/cooling capability at once. Is the heater PTC fuzed independently inside of the DC/DC converter or am I likely also looking at a PTC replacement?
Yes, it has its own fuse in the DC-DC convertor. But if the fuse blew you might also need the PTC heater. (And I think some people end up needing the thermal controller as well.)
NuclearPowered
Member
Thanks, I'll give the fuse a shot and see if it takes care of it. One more question, is the heater fuse a 40a or a 20a?
Hi I am also getting my PTC Heater replaced today by my local Service Center...they just called me back and said my quote is going to cost more because I now need the fuses changed ...I thought she mentioned they have to drop the battery tray... from what I have read in this thread, dropping the battery tray is not needed... so what fuses are needed to be changed...the DCDC fuses ..isn’t that converter located under the front wheel well?
I have a Model S 75D made in September. 2016
I have a Model S 75D made in September. 2016
ElectricTravel
Member
Your car is newer than most of the ones discussed in this thread.
Your car has the fuses inside a separate Forward Junction Box, which is mounted to the bulkhead. These would be accessible on a rear wheel drive car by going through the frunk, but it's pretty plausible that the HV battery would need to be removed for access on a dual motor car. There probably isn't room to get at them from the frunk with the front motor in the way.
bigvikefan
Member
I saw the amazon link to large fuse and the large size as 40a14Fa, but cannot find the physical dimensions for the small 20a/500V fuse in this thread. I assume this should be a Fast Blow? Could someone advise physical size of the small fuse, 6mmx30mm, other? Are there any recommended fuse brands or brands to avoid on amazon for these?
I have a 2013 S with no heat (and at negative temps in Iowa, can't really tell on AC) and am about to try the DCDC fuse fix. I was contemplating also changing PTC at same time. I haven't read about that process yet. Is it time saving to do both together or are they pretty separate procedures? Any part recommendations or links on a good PTC? I've jotted some notes while reading, but an experienced shopping list would be awesome. Thank you in advance!
I have a 2013 S with no heat (and at negative temps in Iowa, can't really tell on AC) and am about to try the DCDC fuse fix. I was contemplating also changing PTC at same time. I haven't read about that process yet. Is it time saving to do both together or are they pretty separate procedures? Any part recommendations or links on a good PTC? I've jotted some notes while reading, but an experienced shopping list would be awesome. Thank you in advance!
Thank goodness for this forum sometimes. Had the same issues as everyone here, first AC went out and heat still worked, then heat went out, then battery 12v low. Panic'ing about the battery I was overlooking all the other signs... I ordered the fuses and will get this fixed. 2013 Base S for reference (150k miles)
bigvikefan
Member
After reading about the fuse fix in DC converter to possibly fix a dead heater and needing to replace headlight too I tried the fuse repair. I had little time and ran into delays so this took longer than anticipated and I now have a dead car. I did not expect the batteries to drain complete after being disconnected for a few days. Day 1: Opened door and put windows down. Left door open. Disconnected 12V DC battery lead and first responder loop. Changed headlight bulb Day 2: Removed DCDC converter, found bad fuse, replaced it, resealed and replaced unit. Day 3 put everything back together and reconnected only to find that the car was completely dead. I measure 12V battery and it shows full but the car won't power up or even open charge port. I did notice that the door lights were ON at Day 2 - I had left doors open since I wasn't sure if they would open close without power. I thought that was odd to see lights with the 12VDC disconnected and first responder loop removed but by Day 3 the lights were out when I put things back together to find the car will now not power up or even charge. Any thoughts to get back up?
bigvikefan
Member
13.1V when I connected a battery checker/charger to the positive post under the cone and the negative to frame ground, In retrospect I'm an idiot for not realizing those door lights were draining me, but I was scared of being locked out of the car and didn't think it was big enough to be a concern. I now know that with the windows down I could manually open the doors from inside.
now you get to experience the joys of a national battery shortage at tesla (12v), or buy the expensive lithium iron aftermarket.
Anyway, you tried to recharge the battery im assuming? at 13.1 the contactors wont open i think. you need 13.5, someone else can correct me here?
bigvikefan
Member
@brkaus Thanks guys, things are looking much better in the morning. I closed the doors last night and went to bed, put the battery charger on this AM and checked voltage...3.4V now. I hit the "Charge Battery" and like magic everything came to life. My screen is showing 128 miles range inside so I didn't empty the HV battery like I went to bed fearing. Love to hear theories on what happened, but I'm currently waiting for the battery charger to finish charging the 12V and plan to then disconnect that and then connect my tesla charger to top off before going for a ride and testing the heater fix. Whew (I think)! I did get the 12V battery replaced by tesla (about 1 year ago?). 2013 Model S P85 with about 140K.
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