Hoov330
Member
So a low cell in the battery was causing all the issues, everything cleared up after new intall, but heat still dont workDo you have any HV module covers open?
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So a low cell in the battery was causing all the issues, everything cleared up after new intall, but heat still dont workDo you have any HV module covers open?
So a low cell in the battery was causing all the issues, everything cleared up after new intall, but heat still dont work
i have a similar problem, after changing the ptc heater score and the fuse I still have no heat, I wonder if the new part needs a firmware updateSo a low cell in the battery was causing all the issues, everything cleared up after new intall, but heat still dont work
Is the heater PTC fuzed independently inside of the DC/DC converter or am I likely also looking at a PTC replacement?
Yes, it has its own fuse in the DC-DC convertor. But if the fuse blew you might also need the PTC heater. (And I think some people end up needing the thermal controller as well.)
Hi I am also getting my PTC Heater replaced today by my local Service Center...they just called me back and said my quote is going to cost more because I now need the fuses changed ...I thought she mentioned they have to drop the battery tray... from what I have read in this thread, dropping the battery tray is not needed... so what fuses are needed to be changed...the DCDC fuses ..isn’t that converter located under the front wheel well?
I have a Model S 75D made in September. 2016
Hi I am also getting my PTC Heater replaced today by my local Service Center...they just called me back and said my quote is going to cost more because I now need the fuses changed ...I thought she mentioned they have to drop the battery tray... from what I have read in this thread, dropping the battery tray is not needed... so what fuses are needed to be changed...the DCDC fuses ..isn’t that converter located under the front wheel well?
I have a Model S 75D made in September. 2016
Your car is newer than most of the ones discussed in this thread.
Your car has the fuses inside a separate Forward Junction Box, which is mounted to the bulkhead. These would be accessible on a rear wheel drive car by going through the frunk, but it's pretty plausible that the HV battery would need to be removed for access on a dual motor car. There probably isn't room to get at them from the frunk with the front motor in the way.
now you get to experience the joys of a national battery shortage at tesla (12v), or buy the expensive lithium iron aftermarket.13.1V when I connected a battery checker/charger to the positive post under the cone and the negative to frame ground, In retrospect I'm an idiot for not realizing those door lights were draining me, but I was scared of being locked out of the car and didn't think it was big enough to be a concern. I now know that with the windows down I could manually open the doors from inside.
@brkaus Thanks guys, things are looking much better in the morning. I closed the doors last night and went to bed, put the battery charger on this AM and checked voltage...3.4V now. I hit the "Charge Battery" and like magic everything came to life. My screen is showing 128 miles range inside so I didn't empty the HV battery like I went to bed fearing. Love to hear theories on what happened, but I'm currently waiting for the battery charger to finish charging the 12V and plan to then disconnect that and then connect my tesla charger to top off before going for a ride and testing the heater fix. Whew (I think)! I did get the 12V battery replaced by tesla (about 1 year ago?). 2013 Model S P85 with about 140K.now you get to experience the joys of a national battery shortage at tesla (12v), or buy the expensive lithium iron aftermarket.
Anyway, you tried to recharge the battery im assuming? at 13.1 the contactors wont open i think. you need 13.5, someone else can correct me here?