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Ulmo
Active Member
Yes, and I know that, but I was assuming the AHJ was stipulating that all controls (including logic switches ("enable switches" here)) be available, regardless of whatever shut off compliance is required.
Here you stated a likely better way to do it since it would not require Tesla engineer approval, so you're on to something, and maybe that can replace the control requirement. My installation in 2017 was allowed with only the units (with their built in logic switch), with the nearest powerwall power circuit shutoff over 30 feet away or more. None of us know for sure what the AHJ is asking for here.
Everything's up in the air right now. Some installs are being denied right now! Maybe asking questions is the wrong way to go right now since things are pretty tense regarding this, and it's possibly best to accept the three on the floor approval and run. Anybody today is lucky if they get final sign off.
Are you saying some installations are not getting final sign off? If so, why? What's all up in the air currently? Got an installation date of 11/6.
And yes Wayne, I meant long deck screws.
He is probably referring to this post where the San Francisco Department of Building Inspection refused to sign off on a project because they revoked the permit and retroactively applied a new code to a permit that they already issued. Lots of legal problems with that in my mind.
New Cal fire code for Powerwalls?
Ulmo
Active Member
I think you'll have better luck in Cupertino than San Francisco or Oakland where they're already retroactively applying NFPA-855. Don't temp the government to treat you bad, though.
Indeed! I think it's a legal court slam-dunk for the install, but not before having to go up against a bunch of pro-monarchy government, ruining the installer and landowner.
UPDATE:
My 3 PWs finally got installed yesterday and are now waiting for the main panel upgrade. Here's how the stand turned out. I plan to wood putty the screws and joints, then put a final coat of glossy paint.
My 3 PWs finally got installed yesterday and are now waiting for the main panel upgrade. Here's how the stand turned out. I plan to wood putty the screws and joints, then put a final coat of glossy paint.
Ulmo
Active Member
I really like the stand and space utilization. And it sure is sweet seeing 3 Tesla PowerWalls; I have two, and I wish I had at least 4. 3 is way better than 2.
I question the fan spacing on the right side; is that a minimum space spacer I see on the bottom right? If so, then that's great. If not, then if that cabinet could be made 4" to the right of the PowerWalls somehow, that would be great. I'd like to hear from Tesla engineers if I'm wrong (or right), though.
I seem to recall that safety measures being required come January 1, 2020 in much of California requires a bollard in the open corner of that to stop cars hitting it, and I think another useless one on the other side, too. While I don't think it's required now, I'd like to do the one on the open corner anyway, since I have relatives that occasionally miss by a few feet. You've seen the videos of old drivers doing that; yes, we get that here. They tend to be stubborn television-demented people that believe their own reality, and will scrape 100% the side of their car on something without wanting to admit fault or guilt. I bet the government-written requirements have damaging specifications for the bollards that would get people pinched in between the bollards and all sorts of things by having the bollards too far from the PowerWalls, so maybe one could install theirs closely before the government puts in those spacing requirements.
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Regarding the stand that Heytae built:
1. What did the final depth dimension wind up being? Was it 18" or 19" from the wall or something in between?
2. I notice there are no vent holes in the platform to allow the pass-through of air from the garage vent that was covered by the platform. Are these garage vents no longer required by code? I have 4 of them in my garage and will also be covering one of them when I build a similar platform for 3 PW batteries.
I'm wondering if an inspector will find issue with having the vent covered from the inside, and also if I want to maintain the vent for any practical reasons.
If it's no longer needed, I'm assuming it's best to also cover the vent opening in the exterior garage wall before building the platform so I don't get a lot of debris blowing in and under the box over time, or maybe even insects making a nest there if they have access from the outside?
Any confirmation on the final dimensions and whether the garage vents are still required by code or any practical reason is appreciated.
Thanks
1. What did the final depth dimension wind up being? Was it 18" or 19" from the wall or something in between?
2. I notice there are no vent holes in the platform to allow the pass-through of air from the garage vent that was covered by the platform. Are these garage vents no longer required by code? I have 4 of them in my garage and will also be covering one of them when I build a similar platform for 3 PW batteries.
I'm wondering if an inspector will find issue with having the vent covered from the inside, and also if I want to maintain the vent for any practical reasons.
If it's no longer needed, I'm assuming it's best to also cover the vent opening in the exterior garage wall before building the platform so I don't get a lot of debris blowing in and under the box over time, or maybe even insects making a nest there if they have access from the outside?
Any confirmation on the final dimensions and whether the garage vents are still required by code or any practical reason is appreciated.
Thanks
Thanks Ulmo. I'm not sure what your city requirements might be, but here in Cupertino, CA, I passed the city inspection without any issue regarding a bollard. Inspector didn't even ask about the size of the car parking next to them.
To help with the backing in of the Model X, note the blue painter's tape on the garage floor in the pictures. There's a pair on the floor near the rollup doors as well as a set in the middle and rear of the garage parking spot. As I back in, I simply line up the "white steering lines" on the center screen with the blue tape on the floor, and voila, I always am perfectly centered in the garage. Model X backs into a single-car-width garage with its own rollup door as part of a 3-car garage, so it's a tight fit. All the more reason for my painter's tape to align me perfectly each time without coming anywhere close to hitting the Powerwalls. Besides, the Powerwalls do not stick out as far from the wall as the white cabinets next to them. As long as I line up with the blue tape markings, it's a no-brainer.
I'll measure the final depth and I'll post it here soon @KGM3 and let me know if you want any other exact measurements. What part of CA are you in so that I can get a sense of your climate?
A couple of tips for anyone else who might make a wooden pedestal like this: allowing the wood to dry for 3 weeks prior to me cutting/building it, the super heavy weight of 3 PWs caused the vertical load to SLIGHTLY compress at the seams (<1mm), causing the 2 coats of paint to crack just at the seams where the vertical pedestal walls met the horizontal base and top. Vertical side board did NOT compress any. So expect to add a final coat a month after everything has settled. If you're a perfectionist like me. =)
Apparently, keeping the vents open is not a requirement in my city as all but 2 of my vents (out of 6 total) were covered by the previous owner installing wall-mounted cabinets throughout our 3-car garage. They're all literally covered up except 1 vent at the opposite corner of where my Powerwalls pedestal went. That's why I really wanted to save this 2nd vent opening behind my pedestal, hence the cut outs to keep the air flowing.
After installation, on at least 3 different days and weather conditions, I was pleasantly surprised that there is actual air flow through the pedestal's cutouts. More airflow than I expected considering the 90-degree turn the air has to make to come into the garage. So NO FAN was needed for my setup. My vents have a mesh on the outside and is behind a bush, so no debris would get inside, even had I blocked it from the inside with the pedestal's backing. Hope these details help you in your design and build.
From the drywall to the front edge of the 3rd stacked Powerwall, it's exactly 18 15/16". Or call it 19" deep, sticking out from the wall. Hope that helps @KGM3
Thanks very much Heytae. The powerwalls were installed before I got your response, so we used 18 1/2" platform depth and it worked out fine.
The powerwalls were delivered a week before the install, so I was able to verify that the front edge of the feet of each unit are recessed 1" behind the front of the powerwall exterior , so even though my total install depth (dry-wall to front of 3rd powerwall shell) is 19", the box depth of 18 1/2" deep supports it well with no extra box overlap in the front, and an extra 1/2 inch of gap before the feet start.
I didn't do air cut-outs, but can always add them later by drilling into the sides. I was careful to take pictures at every stage of the construction, so I know where all the supports are and can avoid drilling into them. I did block the air vent on the garage wall with Plywood to avoid any insects from entering and nesting under there. But I can remove that block from the outside if I ever need to.
I'm uploading pics of the intermediate and finished job in case it helps anyone. It's all 2x4s with 5/8" plywood and pressure treated wood at the base for water resistance (although my garage typically does not get wet).
Thanks again for the concept and showing how it looks as a finished product. Using your model definitely turned out better than what my installer originally wanted to do, which was put 2 PWs on the floor with a gap behind them due to my garage curb, and then hang 1 PW above the 2-pack. I realized before the install that Tesla's manual explicitly forbids hanging them on the wall at the height that would have been necessary to elevate a unit over the floor mounted ones beneath.
Thanks to your post and photos, I'm now in compliance with Tesla install specs in case I ever have a warranty claim, and have a nice compact 3-pack that does not extend past my garage door track. We even ran the conduit through the platform to keep it neat above the PWs or in case I ever want to add a cabinet up there.
Thanks again for the help!
The powerwalls were delivered a week before the install, so I was able to verify that the front edge of the feet of each unit are recessed 1" behind the front of the powerwall exterior , so even though my total install depth (dry-wall to front of 3rd powerwall shell) is 19", the box depth of 18 1/2" deep supports it well with no extra box overlap in the front, and an extra 1/2 inch of gap before the feet start.
I didn't do air cut-outs, but can always add them later by drilling into the sides. I was careful to take pictures at every stage of the construction, so I know where all the supports are and can avoid drilling into them. I did block the air vent on the garage wall with Plywood to avoid any insects from entering and nesting under there. But I can remove that block from the outside if I ever need to.
I'm uploading pics of the intermediate and finished job in case it helps anyone. It's all 2x4s with 5/8" plywood and pressure treated wood at the base for water resistance (although my garage typically does not get wet).
Thanks again for the concept and showing how it looks as a finished product. Using your model definitely turned out better than what my installer originally wanted to do, which was put 2 PWs on the floor with a gap behind them due to my garage curb, and then hang 1 PW above the 2-pack. I realized before the install that Tesla's manual explicitly forbids hanging them on the wall at the height that would have been necessary to elevate a unit over the floor mounted ones beneath.
Thanks to your post and photos, I'm now in compliance with Tesla install specs in case I ever have a warranty claim, and have a nice compact 3-pack that does not extend past my garage door track. We even ran the conduit through the platform to keep it neat above the PWs or in case I ever want to add a cabinet up there.
Thanks again for the help!
Very nice @KGM3! It looks nice and I like the way you routed the conduit through the box for a cleaner look. And yeah, that's a good point about the load-bearing feet being recessed. And interesting that you too had the "garage curb" to contend with...makes sense now that I think of that further, being the foundation and all.
I'm glad my post and pictures were helpful to at least one person. It was a fun project and sounds like you enjoyed making yours too.
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