Have you considered a switch VS full time disconnect?Finally put together a youtube channel in an attempt to get supercharger miles.
Uploaded video showing how to remove the connector.
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Have you considered a switch VS full time disconnect?Finally put together a youtube channel in an attempt to get supercharger miles.
Uploaded video showing how to remove the connector.
I was looking into something like that, I think the CAN bus is slow enough for a simple switch. Ive ordered some sample connectors from hirshman that appear to be the same.Have you considered a switch VS full time disconnect?
I'm looking forward to your findings. I'm admittedly hesitant to disable the heater if I will then be battling the AC freezing over and having to manually address that. Really seems super inefficient if Tesla users the heater to reduce AC output. Seriously inefficient.I was looking into something like that, I think the CAN bus is slow enough for a simple switch. Ive ordered some sample connectors from hirshman that appear to be the same.
4way 1.2 SealStar FA Connector
4way 1.2 SealStar MA Connector
I'm looking forward to your findings. I'm admittedly hesitant to disable the heater if I will then be battling the AC freezing over and having to manually address that. Really seems super inefficient if Tesla users the heater to reduce AC output. Seriously inefficient.
I agree with you on using the 'Auto' setting and fo'get about it.I see your point of not wasting the car energy; but at the same time, it's nice to just hit auto and set the temp and let it do it thang. But i see your point, give more options to the user if they go manual.
For me constantly burning 1000-2000 watts to heat the car when it's hot outside and average humidity is a waste of energy even if I was plugged into the wall with unlimited range. If youre living off the grid with solar then it's all good, otherwise please turn off lights when you leave the house as Greta Thunberg would say.I agree with you on using the 'Auto' setting and fo'get about it.
For me constantly burning 1000-2000 watts to heat the car when it's hot outside and average humidity is a waste of energy even if I was plugged into the wall with unlimited range. If youre living off the grid with solar then it's all good, otherwise please turn off lights when you leave the house as Greta Thunberg would say.
But burning 1000-2000 watts heating the car when it's 90 degrees outside while unplugged & running off a battery is worse. Especially for people like me with no home/workplace charging and a 80mi commute.
I am looking to get a can setup for scan my Tesla, but in the meantime my DC current clamp meter does not tell lies clamping directly to the power line to the cabin heater. Here is some video evidence, but anyone can pop the side panel and verify my results. It's jumping between 1-1.6kW in this case.I’m pretty sure it doesn’t add heat at 90F ambient temps. I’ve only noticed it adding heat in below 60-65 ... maybe around 70 if it’s really rainy and wet, but that’s just going by feeling, not watching actual data.
Note to self: ask for Scan My Tesla for Christmas.
They don't use heat to reduce the AC output. The compressor is variable output and can be ramped down to almost nothing if that's what the cooling demand calls for. Tesla does use subcooling + electric reheat to provide better dehumidification performance in some weather conditions, which is an energy intensive process.
More info on HVAC dehumidification strategies:
https://www.energy.gov/sites/prod/files/2015/11/f27/fupwg_fall2015_duncan.pdf
https://www.ashrae.org/File Library/Conferences/Specialty Conferences/2018 Building Performance Analysis Conference and SimBuild/Papers/C105.pdf
There are more efficient dehumidification options - like adding a condenser coil downstream of the evaporator coil, but those add system complexity. Tesla decided to reducing complexity at the expense of energy consumption.
The Hyundai Kona Electric has a heater button and an AC button. With neither of those depressed, it is fan-only no matter what the temperature setting. If you feel cold, you can hit the heater button. If you feel hot, you can hit the AC button....simple.
My Chevy Volt had a fan only option that I used all the time. I assume the Hyundai could be similar.i dont quite believe that unless its a cooling button.
Air conditioning is not the same as cooling. Particularly in humid climates you will quickly learn that cooling the air alone is not sufficient.
My Chevy Volt had a fan only option that I used all the time. I assume the Hyundai could be similar.
It was/is possible. And I used it often.i doubt that as its not really possible. i.e. if you drive in the tropics at 28C the car will AC the air down to like 18C but then needs to heat the air back up to 22C or whatever you have it set as.
It was/is possible. And I used it often.
If I wanted only fresh air, and no heat or AC, it would do that. Very very occasionally when it was cooling the battery I could tell the air coming into the cabin was slightly cooler. And you could tell by the energy consumption chart on the dashboard if it was heating or cooling.
Sorry, there must be something missing in our discussion.thats just not how air conditioning works. If you drive at 26C in darwin the air will be cooled down to like 18C and dehumidified but would then have to be heated back up to 22C. How are you going to heat the air back up?
thats just not how air conditioning works. If you drive at 26C in darwin the air will be cooled down to like 18C and dehumidified but would then have to be heated back up to 22C. How are you going to heat the air back up?