Welcome to Tesla Motors Club
Discuss Tesla's Model S, Model 3, Model X, Model Y, Cybertruck, Roadster and More.
Register

Drive Unit Failure- No warranty- Going to Catalog my experience with repair or replacement

This site may earn commission on affiliate links.
I guess I don’t understand why you would drive it 12K miles with a milling sound.

That must be very disconcerting for you.

The milling sound, per Tesla and per many of us who’ve had it for tens of thousands of miles before dealing with it, is not fatal. It will get louder, and Tesla will replace the DU because of it, but the sound in and of itself is benign.

I had mine checked at 3 different SvCs in CA, IL, and OH while there for other things and the answer was the same each time - no big deal, and it can wait until the next annual service for the DU swap.

Unfortunately, as happened to the OP, that’s not the worst thing that can happen to a DU.

Per Tesla, at least when they explained it to me, DU failure and milling noise are mutually exclusive.

Fortunately, the DUs have gotten better starting with the Q series iirc. So if the OP manages to scrounge one up, it should last longer.

The milling noise does have one benefit. Never while having it will you startle a visually impaired person in a parking lot.
 
Sooooo I found a 1025276-00-q guy says it’s from a p85+

Does anyone know if a p85 + motor is compatable With a standard p85 also I thought the “p” revision was the most recent but this is a “q” revision. Is this something I should go after?

That should work perfectly for you. Q was the latest revision letter I knew of a year ago, dont know if there is a newer one or not. P85 vs P85+ have no difference in the motor they use, only suspension.
 
@sledom - I'm 99% certain that the -Q part number you listed is a non-Performance motor. Digging through the forums here that looks to be the part number for the latest revision of the standard rear motor.
That’s what I thought too that Q revision is for standard cars not the performance cars. The part number isn’t the same either but I thought it could have Ben because of the “+” either way I’m going to stick with what I know for sure. I can across two motors one is the Cadillac “p” revision with low miles and the other is a “k” revision with 17k miles

Is it worth an extra 2500$ to get the “p” revision?
 
That’s what I thought too that Q revision is for standard cars not the performance cars. The part number isn’t the same either but I thought it could have Ben because of the “+” either way I’m going to stick with what I know for sure. I can across two motors one is the Cadillac “p” revision with low miles and the other is a “k” revision with 17k miles

Is it worth an extra 2500$ to get the “p” revision?

Well the K version would still have the flaws causing "failures". The P version has supposed to been updated to resolve all of the known issues.

You know, it's hit or miss really. Not all the early versions have failed or even had issues. I had a -B revision fail, my other car has a late 2013 motor that is still performing flawlessly (no milling, no power loss, whisper quiet). The replacement one I got for the failed -B was a -D.

Honestly, a $2500 premium is steep, but for me the most important questions to ask would be number of miles on the drive units and how long the seller(s) will warranty them.
 
So I pulled the trigger and got the “P” revision turns out the other motor wasn’t legit, it has to say “sport” on the sticker.

I called Tesla service and had them look at the part numbers, they cant give me service but they did help me with that. I also asked if they were going to put a new motor in what part number would they use? They said the “P” revision is what they would put in. So even though its a lot of money and I have no idea how I’m gonna pay the credit card off I felt like if I was gonna keep the car I had to do it.

I forgot to ask how much a motor replacment would be if I paid for a recertification.

Might be cheaper to get re-certified and have them swap it out.

I tried to call back to ask but it was too big a pain and I already said yes to AUTOBAHNEV.
 
And this is one of the big reasons I would slap Elon with open hand - he doesn't care about environment if he supports scrapping vehicle that is actually fine. Making one vehicle is very carbon intensive process. Especially EV.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Tozz
Let us know if Tesla would have warrantied the car if you had recertified it? Sounds like maybe.

One thing I haven't seen mentioned is whether the part numbers for the drive unit changed in June of 2017 when the drive unit got the DU01 designation and option code. And if so, how that would affect long term reliability.

You are in good hands in this thread.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: MIT_S60
Let us know if Tesla would have warrantied the car if you had recertified it? Sounds like maybe.

One thing I haven't seen mentioned is whether the part numbers for the drive unit changed in June of 2017 when the drive unit got the DU01 designation and option code. And if so, how that would affect long term reliability.

You are in good hands in this thread.

Nope. I know for FACT that Tesla will not do this. Inside source, they will sell you parts for a recert car, and they will do the work for a fee, but they will not warranty even the smallest little screw, nut, or plastic trim piece. Forget getting a motor replaced. 0% chance.
 
  • Informative
Reactions: cwerdna
You need to have your car rooted. There are a couple guys on this forum that can do that. Once rooted, they can "redeploy" or reflash the firmware to the new motor.

Regarding P/N's, you either need to know the donor car, or google the particular motor's P/N that you are considering purchasing. I don't have an all-inclusive list for this, unfortunately.
Sounds like his car is already rooted :) Am I right, fellow Aussies??
 
BB23900A-60F4-4102-8871-9C79BF5C05B6.jpeg CC2D8FC1-1F23-47CF-B467-DB53DD53CE31.jpeg
CC2D8FC1-1F23-47CF-B467-DB53DD53CE31.jpeg
CC2D8FC1-1F23-47CF-B467-DB53DD53CE31.jpeg Alright the motor is here! I’ve got it in my uncles shop because he’s got a lift. hopefully installing this weekend

Looking at the motor I’m a little concerned as the color of the metal changes in the gearing unit and the s/n sticker looks tampered with. What do you guys think?
 

Attachments

  • 9800658B-1235-40FA-9480-191484A2E0D5.jpeg
    9800658B-1235-40FA-9480-191484A2E0D5.jpeg
    793.4 KB · Views: 132
It’s odd that the sticker doesn’t match the etching right next to it on that close up picture. It could be the sticker is for the entire assembly and the etching is for that subassembly or something like that. It might be worth seeing how a few others are labeled/etched if possible.
 
Hey guys update, I got the new motor installed and it really wasnt that daunting of a task, my stress was through the roof but that was only because of having spent 7k on a part and potientally having problems with the car.

However once I got it installed the car runs like a dream, alost 1k more miles on it already and not a hiccup the car runs great and best part is the sound is completely gone, it runs and sounds like it was installed at a Tesla service center.