-
Want to remove ads? Register an account and login to see fewer ads, and become a Supporting Member to remove almost all ads.
Ear pain/Pressure help
- Thread starter justobuf
- Start date
-
- Tags
- sound proofing
That's the only thing I didn't attempt as I do not have access to a 3D printer.
That said it looks like I missed that the foam on top of the rear wheel wells is a known entity, and that is to be removed to then put down the butyl. So I might give that a try as of yet (having already returned my butyl, lol), just not sure if there will be enough impact to warrant the effort at this point. It seems like MY is just economy car at best acoustics no matter what.
ilovecoffee
Member
You can DIY rigid hatch stops as well courtesy of MY-Y who came up with it. IMHO having both is the best outcome.
Are you sure you re-calibrated your hatch stops after putting in vinyl tubing? There are no intrinsic differences between 2023 and 2022 models in this regard. If the hatch stops are not calibrated properly, you'll still have road noise/pressure going over bumps. Purely road noise over bumps (no pressure), can be mitigated with butyl over those wheel wells.
For the rigid hatch stops I'm not crafty. If someone was selling, I'd be buying. Not sure I understand how much those help beyond the vinyl tubing fix. As for the butyl I should probably re-purchase and rip things apart again, didn't realize the foam in there was a known entity I should have removed.
Good question on the rigid hatch stops, should have touched on this. I don't understand the hatch stops or know what constitutes calibration. For all I know I made things worse. Once the hatch closed and seemed solid I gave up on everything.
ilovecoffee
Member
So the foam on the rear wheel well doesn't have to be fully removed to install the butyl, you can simply peel it back out of the way, it just rests on top.
Calibration constitutes making sure they are only extended as much as required (meaning the bare minimum) in order to grip paper tightly so you can't pull it out. Here's how I'd do it:
1) Tighten up the ones in the middle all the way in (the ones not at the tail lights, with no plastic nuts),
2) Check the ones on the tail light are gripping paper tightly so you can't pull it out.
3) If no, extend them, the same amount of turns and close the door and see if it grips paper. You will have to open/close many times.
4) If yes to step 2, screw them in and work back outwards until they grip paper at the bare minimum extension.
4) Make sure the plastic nut is against the body of the door (screwed all the way in).
5) After it grips paper, extend the other ones without the plastic nut until they make reasonable grip (sometimes these ones it's easy to slip out paper no matter what you do, so just do it until you see reasonable gripping force.
6) Re-check the other stoppers that they are still gripping paper (i.e. the ones you just adjusted didn't push away the others above the tail lights).
Here's a quick link:
And here's a quick link to the correct time in my video:
I get that my instructions look verbose, I'm sorry, but it's not quite so difficult other than probably consuming 20 minutes of your time. It'll be worth it hopefully once it's done.
I put butyl and then foam under the OE foam over the wheels and didn't see any difference. I also made the diy hatch stops and tried the vinyl tubing (3 different sizes). Nothing seemed to make a difference. I did lose a panel clip and tore up my weather seal a little. It makes me wonder if I contributed to any rattling back there. I also went with oversized tires on 18" wheels for a tiny improvement.
I will say that at 10k miles it seems to bother me less. Either the car is breaking in or I'm acclimating. I'm noticing the booming less and now am focused on the slap impact over expansion joints and potholes. As soon as I get my tax return I'm ordering Mountain Performance Comfort Coilovers.
2nd Test drive Update:
Just got back from a 2nd test drive, Tesla was kind enough to let me do a 2 hour test drive, on the same MYLR 20" Wheels (Austin build) we tested last week (I specifically asked for the same car). The difference today I hooked up Tesla by adjusting the rear hatch stops lol
Suspension (just suspension)- Definitely smoother than my model 3 my wife agreed, smoother and less sharp over bumps which we definitely loved.
Sounds/Boomines/Buffeting- Once again we completely turned off the sound system and lowered the bass all the way down just in case. Went over bumps felt the same booming from last time. The boominess was more noticeable between 5-45 mph especially in textured bumpy roads. I pulled over and started adjusting the real hatch stops using the envelop method in the video @ilovecoffee kindly provided. All stops were holding the envelop and hatch closed perfectly.
Results: Immediately felt the difference (wife agreed) boomines diminished significantly. There were no rattles. Im very confident (knock on wood) that using the methodology @ilovecoffee provided will do perfectly for us.
Other items noteworthy: I did a "practice" inspection noticed the tail light (driver side) had condensation, noticed majority of panel gaps and misalignments were on the driver side. Nothing major that would make me reject this particular car.
Noticed several MYLR ready for delivery had matrix headlights (all the ones with white interior and/or 7 seaters).
Just got back from a 2nd test drive, Tesla was kind enough to let me do a 2 hour test drive, on the same MYLR 20" Wheels (Austin build) we tested last week (I specifically asked for the same car). The difference today I hooked up Tesla by adjusting the rear hatch stops lol
Suspension (just suspension)- Definitely smoother than my model 3 my wife agreed, smoother and less sharp over bumps which we definitely loved.
Sounds/Boomines/Buffeting- Once again we completely turned off the sound system and lowered the bass all the way down just in case. Went over bumps felt the same booming from last time. The boominess was more noticeable between 5-45 mph especially in textured bumpy roads. I pulled over and started adjusting the real hatch stops using the envelop method in the video @ilovecoffee kindly provided. All stops were holding the envelop and hatch closed perfectly.
Results: Immediately felt the difference (wife agreed) boomines diminished significantly. There were no rattles. Im very confident (knock on wood) that using the methodology @ilovecoffee provided will do perfectly for us.
Other items noteworthy: I did a "practice" inspection noticed the tail light (driver side) had condensation, noticed majority of panel gaps and misalignments were on the driver side. Nothing major that would make me reject this particular car.
Noticed several MYLR ready for delivery had matrix headlights (all the ones with white interior and/or 7 seaters).
Last edited:
I’m curious, does anyone know whether doing any of these (installing butyl, vinyl tubing) will void the warranty? They can probably be removed if necessary but I’m wondering if someone has to go through the trouble of removing them before a scheduled service. I’d imagine removing butyl would probably ruin them
ilovecoffee
Member
No. In all likelihood it's inconceivable how that could ever affect the warranty.
Tesla already arbitrarily puts tubing in some Model Y's although it's black and a bit smaller diameter. Also that part itself (the rubber gasket) is like 200 bucks. And ilthe tubing is very easy to remove.
Butyl on the other hand is essentially permanent (it's incredibly difficult to remove after it hardens). But I can't see what it could do...in any circumstance to blamed for anything that warranty would otherwise cover. Like getting your windows tinted or putting on PPF.
Agree. As I reported previously, I found no measurable difference after putting the butyl on the rear wheel wells.
If I remember correctly, Bjorn (the guy with YouTube channel) had a professional job done on the whole car and found no noticeable improvement.
ilovecoffee
Member
IIRC that was a Model 3 and they talked about putting it all over the door panels/exterior facing panels, which didn't make a difference for me either. It also might be difficult to measure if not using dB-C weighted since the noise is quite low freq.
That makes sense. I think there are two primary sources of noise. One is the wind (as the car moves through the air), and there is not much we can do (unless we change the glass and the roof). The other is the road noise which putting the butyl on the wheel wells might help, but doing a good job of sealing the wells is not easy (unfortunately).
I have a 2023 MY which has a significant booming over uneven road surface (the hatch stoppers are adjusted) and I'm planning to do the tubing method and eventually hard stoppers if neeeded.
Lately though, I've noticed that if my trunk is full with items it's reducing the booming significantly. It doesn't even have to be heavy or really bulky items but just many items that are covering most of the trunk area. Which probably means that the cause of the booming is not just the hatch movement that creates an air movement but actually an interaction between the hatch movement and that big trunk cavity with a rigid and actually a noisy and boomy surface which acts like a boombox. When filled with items, then probably the air movement / sound waves that are created by the hatch movement are absorbed and not being bounced into the cabin, or something like that.
This might also explain why some people had success reducing the boominess with a parcel shelf, which I don't use and I don't recall that it had any significant effect on the booming but maybe it depends on some additional factors like the composition and length of the parcel shelf which I think Tesla changed over the years.
I'm curious if anyone tried to line the trunk with some heavy duty moving blankets to see if it helps reducing the booming, an additional positive effect of it might be that items will stay more secure as the carpeted surface is too slippery and unsecured items inside not a full trunk always move around.
Lately though, I've noticed that if my trunk is full with items it's reducing the booming significantly. It doesn't even have to be heavy or really bulky items but just many items that are covering most of the trunk area. Which probably means that the cause of the booming is not just the hatch movement that creates an air movement but actually an interaction between the hatch movement and that big trunk cavity with a rigid and actually a noisy and boomy surface which acts like a boombox. When filled with items, then probably the air movement / sound waves that are created by the hatch movement are absorbed and not being bounced into the cabin, or something like that.
This might also explain why some people had success reducing the boominess with a parcel shelf, which I don't use and I don't recall that it had any significant effect on the booming but maybe it depends on some additional factors like the composition and length of the parcel shelf which I think Tesla changed over the years.
I'm curious if anyone tried to line the trunk with some heavy duty moving blankets to see if it helps reducing the booming, an additional positive effect of it might be that items will stay more secure as the carpeted surface is too slippery and unsecured items inside not a full trunk always move around.
Thanks so much for this thread everyone! And @ilovecoffee for the video! I installed 5/16" od tubing tonight and the difference was very noticeable! Much less subwoofer feel. Now it sounds to me like many crossovers as far as the echoing around the back.
The hatch latch is quite a bit tighter this way, a pretty noticeable pop when it is opened, but closes ok.
The hatch latch is quite a bit tighter this way, a pretty noticeable pop when it is opened, but closes ok.
I feel like the hidden space below the trunk floor has something to do with the booming noise (in my car). With the hatch open, if I hit the trunk floor gently with my fist I can replicate the overwhelming pressure since the cavity below is empty. Like a few others have pointed out in this and other threads, if the trunk has a few heavier items it helps with the overall acoustics. I recently purchased an OEM parcel shelf (after not being happy with the aftermarket options) and I want to additionally lay a heavy acoustic blanket underneath and on top.
So far I've installed 3D printed rigid hatch stops, added 5/16" tubing in the trunk seal, lowered tire pressure to 39psi, and adjusted the hatch stops. In the course of my experimentation I did manage to solve one thing, however. I've had this strange rattling coming from the back area when driving over uneven pavement or bumps. I stuffed some Dynapad behind the rear seats into the crevice between the seatbacks and trunk floor as far down as it would go. To my pleasant surprise, the rattling stopped.
@ilovecoffee , should I be concerned that my measurements for the rubber protruding from the octagonal plastic are 11 and 13mm and your 3d models only go to 9mm? I'd like to add the rigid stops. Would I just stretch the top part of that model (keeping the octagonal part the exact size?
I stretched the round part out longer on mine. You could also stretch the octagonal part if you want, it’s probably fine.
ilovecoffee
Member
13mm seems a bit extreme.
You can edit it in Tinkercad if you have some knowledge of Tinkercad. Also I've uploaded the Fusion file with parametric variables you can edit directly. Just be careful if you edit in Tinkercad that you don't change the height/depth of the plastic nut inset.
I can also edit it for you sometime next week if you prefer to wait.
ZenRockGarden
Active Member
My theory is the large volume under the hatch area serves somewhat as a resonance-chamber, and filling it with stuff reduces that effect...
adc65
Member
To preface I've done:
- Hatch stopper adjustments
- Vinyl tubing in seals
- RPM additional trunk seals
- Butyl over wheel wells and subtrunk
- Stuffed wheelwells and under second row bench with a twin mattress worth of foam
- Aftermarket solid core cargo cover
I did what someone several pages ago mentioned in this thread about putting a 30lb weighted blanket underneath the second subtrunk panel behind the big subtrunk cubby and stuffed excess in between the rear seat gap and did notice a slight reduction maybe 15% in the resonance that larger bumps make probably due to the additional mass in the trunk area filling the drumlike void down there.
