Let us know if you do or don't notice an improvement. Also consider 3/8 OD little bit bigger less gate movement as @ilovecoffee mentioned previously. Good luck!
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Ear pain/Pressure help
- Thread starter justobuf
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- sound proofing
I installed the 5/16" tubing. It was fairly easy - I used WD-40 Silcone Specialist lubricant and was able to fill the entire weatherstripping in two pieces except for the very top where I finished it off with a roughly 5" section in the middle. Got all four bump stops adjusted so an envelope is held on tight. At first the hatch wouldn't latch itself shut without some help but after maybe 10 open/close cycles the tubing seemed to conform to its new home and it was no longer an issue. Unfortunately the result wasn't as dramatic as I'd hoped. The boominess is still there. I'd say it's better than before, but perhaps only 20% improvement. This is all subjective, obviously.
I'm going to tackle the inner wheel wells with insulation a-la @ilovecoffee's video next weekend.
insaneoctane
Well-Known Member
The trouble with this kind of issue is it’s highly subjective, likely limited to only some vehicles and could be caused by a huge range of factors. People have reported similar issues with the Audi e-trons so likely there’s an element of this being an “EV thing” in particular. Having said that I’ve had gasser rentals over the years that were not pleasant to be in at highway speeds for similar reasons - so many possible causes.
insaneoctane
Well-Known Member
I suspect that the high-level cause for our sound woes is a combination of the cavernous hatch area (including the sub- trunk and deep storage pockets) and insufficient noise isolation / dampening materials used in the vehicles and no engine sounds to help mask noises. With the volume and cavities of the hatch area, maybe noise isolation / dampening isn't practical from a size, reduced storage volume, and/or economy standpoint. Tesla engineering is top notch, so I am really a little surprised at this price point that this issue is still present in the 2023 MY. To be fair, many people have tried many things on this thread with hit-and-miss results, so no "slam dunk" solutions...
GM had this same issue in the Tahoe/Yukon...here are 183 pages of it on their forum:
2015 YUKON NOISE IN CABIN
I found a few other cars with this issue when I had my Model S with the same problem, but this is the most infamous. In the case if the Tahoe, the suspension/drivetrain would transmit the vibrations and instead of a "hatch" it was the large thin steel roof that would flex. GM tried a number of things to address over the years that generation of truck was out (reinforcing/re-gluing headliner roof supports, exhaust dampers, road force balancing of tires, rear end and tire replacements, etc.). One owner inserted wedges between the roof rack and his roof to try to stop the flex and reported some success there...a fix not dissimilar to ya'lls efforts to stop hatch movement. Feel free to read it for any other ideas. It gives me ptsd from my issues on my Model S!
2015 YUKON NOISE IN CABIN
I found a few other cars with this issue when I had my Model S with the same problem, but this is the most infamous. In the case if the Tahoe, the suspension/drivetrain would transmit the vibrations and instead of a "hatch" it was the large thin steel roof that would flex. GM tried a number of things to address over the years that generation of truck was out (reinforcing/re-gluing headliner roof supports, exhaust dampers, road force balancing of tires, rear end and tire replacements, etc.). One owner inserted wedges between the roof rack and his roof to try to stop the flex and reported some success there...a fix not dissimilar to ya'lls efforts to stop hatch movement. Feel free to read it for any other ideas. It gives me ptsd from my issues on my Model S!
Could you or others who have done this share the thickness of the foam you went with on the front fenders? The noico doesn't exist on Amazon anymore and I'm hoping this 4mm Siless foam will do:
4mm should work but basically since you glue two pieces - it will be 8mm total thickness… I used a diff one which was 10mm and it rubs slightly when the door is opened or closed …
Not sure what you mean by two pieces, or how opening a door could affect sound deadening in a wheel well...
This is for the fender which is a long piece that is done by attaching 2 4mm pieces and sliding into the area between the fender and the front doors - not for the wheel well
tm3lrawd
Member
Tesla Mobile Service visited today to address lift gate misalignment and low frequency noise in my new MY. The Tech reversed the opinion of the Tesla Service Center and stated that the lift gate alignment was not within spec and it could not be corrected with bump stop adjustments. Recommended repair at an auto body shop under Tesla warranty. Very happy with this outcome. Hoping an auto body shop can fix the lift gate and hoping that will reduce the low frequency noise. Will report back as this process unfolds.
I ALWAYS felt my Model S (with the buffeting problem) had a misaligned gate. I remember opening the gate all the way and measuring from the hatch adjuster to the place it rested on for each side and one side was always significantly higher than the other. When it "pulls down" is "straightens it out, but obviously one side is simply under more tension than the other .
Today I installed sound deadening insulation in the wheelwells of our new MYLRAWD. Like the 5/16" tubing in the weatherstripping I would say this didn't make a dramatic difference. The low frequency rumble is still there, as is the resonance at around 60-62 MPH. But the noise is more tolerable now than it was before I did any of this so in the end, I think it's a "win", albeit not a crushing one.
At this point I think I'm pretty much "done" - it is what it is.
At this point I think I'm pretty much "done" - it is what it is.
ilovecoffee
Member
Not that you'd want to think about opening up that again after having just done it, but I'd highly recommend 3 or even 4 layers in that area. Just smothering all that sheet metal and preventing resonance goes a long way.
Did you start with a single layer and add on from there or apply 3+ layers straight away?
ilovecoffee
Member
I think I did 2 and went back and added more later after I discovered it was effective in that area specifically.
Cabin noise is high in my MY LR with 19" wheels and Continental tires, comparing to other cars I've owned so I'll start on the 5 point plan recommended here:
1) Hatch stop adjustments
2) If still not great, add vinyl tubing in the gasket
3) If you still want improvement, add rigid hatch stops (3D Printed, Non 3D Printed)
4) If you still want improvement, add a cargo cover
5) If you still want improvement, add sound deadening
However I'd be interested to hear if anyone has mounted 18" wheels on their MY and whether this makes the ride softer and quieter.
Thanks
1) Hatch stop adjustments
2) If still not great, add vinyl tubing in the gasket
3) If you still want improvement, add rigid hatch stops (3D Printed, Non 3D Printed)
4) If you still want improvement, add a cargo cover
5) If you still want improvement, add sound deadening
However I'd be interested to hear if anyone has mounted 18" wheels on their MY and whether this makes the ride softer and quieter.
Thanks
I just mounted 18" M3 wheels with 245/60/18 Pirelli Scorpions. Tire noise is so much quieter I was shocked when I drove away from the shop, but I bought the car used and the OEM 20" tires were almost spent. The ride is also so much softer that I don't even think about bumps, joints, and shallow potholes. That said, if there's any improvement to the booming, I can't detect it. Time to print rigid stops.
The downside is the front caliper clearance. I see a 1-2mm gap and I don't know how concerned I should be.
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