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Early Delivery 2018 Model 3 LR Loaded current value?

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I realize that there are not very many Model 3's available for sale just yet.
It appears that I will need to get rid of my model 3 to support a investment property.

I have a white, Long Range with 19" Sport wheels, premium upgrade, black interior, Enhanced Auto Pilot, Self Drive.

21,000kms on it.

What do you guys think the current pricing is?
 
Go to Teslas website and spec out how much it would cost to get one brand new. Make a decision that you think is fair based off of that price and the current condition for your car. Milage on electric vehicles don’t matter nearly as much as it does on ICE but most people looking at your car won’t know that.

So if someone bargains based off of KM and stuff that’s irrelevant to Teslas such as the year, you have to try to explain why it doesn’t matter (Tesla doesn’t do yearly refreshes). This is just my 2 cents and Good luck
 
Here is the trouble about pricing the current model. They no longer offer a RWD LR. The LR is now forced Dual Motor, and spec'd the same it works out to $80,300.

So $80,300 Less a Dual Motor Upgrade, 1 year older, and 21,000kms on it.
 
Here is the trouble about pricing the current model. They no longer offer a RWD LR. The LR is now forced Dual Motor, and spec'd the same it works out to $80,300.

So $80,300 Less a Dual Motor Upgrade, 1 year older, and 21,000kms on it.
Again the year and km doesn’t technically matter unless you have an absurd amount. Remember the drivetrain amongst other things are rated for 1 million miles and Tesla doesn’t do yearly refresh.

You need to just do research yourself. Within 2 minutes on my phone I found this article: Tesla drops price of Model 3 to $47,600 in Canada

Looks like the before they removed it was $58,400. Then $4000 for autopilot and $6,600 for FSD + tax and delivery fee. If you spend a couple minutes researching I think you can get a good idea on how to price it
 
This thread is less about how to price a used car (I have sold well over a dozen in my life), and more about what potential model 3 buyers are willing to pay and if anyone has any experience with it present day.
 
A simple method is just to subtract the 14K you get and arrived at the price. With that, you car is worth $62,000 to $65,000 ALL in.

The amount would mean you just break even, depending on how urgent you want to sell, you can reduce the amount somewhat.

Why on earth would I ever take into consideration the $14K rebate? It is a moot point. It was my choice to do a early order, and only I benefit from my rebate nobody else, the savings do NOT get passed on to the future owner. If the rebate was still valid I would have to take it into account as it essentially removes $14k from the vehicle price. This is no longer the case.
 
Why on earth would I ever take into consideration the $14K rebate? It is a moot point. It was my choice to do a early order, and only I benefit from my rebate nobody else, the savings do NOT get passed on to the future owner. If the rebate was still valid I would have to take it into account as it essentially removes $14k from the vehicle price. This is no longer the case.
I think what Ben meant was to sell it for $14k cheaper than what you paid NOT because you got the rebate and the car should be cheaper, but so you technically didn’t lose any money on depreciation and seems reasonable to sell it for that much. At least that’s what I got out of it.
 
Again the year and km doesn’t technically matter unless you have an absurd amount. Remember the drivetrain amongst other things are rated for 1 million miles and Tesla doesn’t do yearly refresh.

You need to just do research yourself. Within 2 minutes on my phone I found this article: Tesla drops price of Model 3 to $47,600 in Canada

Looks like the before they removed it was $58,400. Then $4000 for autopilot and $6,600 for FSD + tax and delivery fee. If you spend a couple minutes researching I think you can get a good idea on how to price it

Year and km matter plenty.

If someone was selling a early 2018 with 20k km and someone else selling a late 2019 with 10k km for the same price which would you pick?

In fact I would not buy any used Tesla unless I knew the build date.

Does this car have HW3?
Does it have new seats?
Does it have suspension change?
Does it have the newer rev Charge port that does not freeze?

In many ways it makes less difference in ICE vehicles that most often change nothing for the whole model year. And sometimes nothing for multiple years. Where Tesla constantly makes changes at any time.

Since some people go through tires quickly just the difference between 10k and 20k km could mean it’s due for tires or not. Tires on Performance are near $400 USD each.

Model year also affects what I pay for excise taxes.
 
Year and km matter plenty.

If someone was selling a early 2018 with 20k km and someone else selling a late 2019 with 10k km for the same price which would you pick?

In fact I would not buy any used Tesla unless I knew the build date.

Does this car have HW3?
Does it have new seats?
Does it have suspension change?
Does it have the newer rev Charge port that does not freeze?

In many ways it makes less difference in ICE vehicles that most often change nothing for the whole model year. And sometimes nothing for multiple years. Where Tesla constantly makes changes at any time.

Since some people go through tires quickly just the difference between 10k and 20k km could mean it’s due for tires or not. Tires on Performance are near $400 USD each.

Model year also affects what I pay for excise taxes.
Build date and year are completely different things. Because Tesla doesn’t do yearly updates what matters more are build dates. My point was year doesn’t matter but most people that don’t know how Tesla works would think it plays a bigger role than it really does.

I would pick the 2019 one because it has updates seats. The early 2018 one doesn’t, but the build OP has does. You just proved my point, where most people would choose the later date just because that’s what they’re accustomed to. It can be the exact same car and people still want the newer year. Up until HW3 it was the same car for almost a year.

Yeah my point was BUILD DATE > YEAR. You just repeated what I was saying haha. I agree with you for the most part though
 
The last price on the website before they pulled it for a LR-RWD with Blue paint and EAP was $50500. I know this because that is the price I paid for my MR same set up and a month later the dropped the price of the MR and put the LR-RWD back as an option and priced at what I paid for my MR. Yes I wasn't happy but oh well still love my MR!
 
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This thread is less about how to price a used car (I have sold well over a dozen in my life), and more about what potential model 3 buyers are willing to pay and if anyone has any experience with it present day.

Seems this thread is more a way to advertise rather than establishing a price, as mentioned you can spend 5 minutes online working out the value of any car, sad fact is the point of the model 3 was, and still is, making an EV affordable, it’s not going to gain in value, and especially if your thinking you get a 14k bonus for buying an early car. This was always going to be a subject of debate when the $14k compliant cars start to surface for sale. In fact the 14k is really only 9k as there is a 5k rebate on a new car, also there is a program to rebate $1k off used EV’s that this vehicle would also qualify for.
Either way to make a car like this attractive to someone in the market it would have to be significantly cheaper than a new version. It’s not rare or significantly different. And knowing that new ones have some upgrades in hardware would not help either.
To clarify, this is said as someone looking at purchasing a model 3 and trying to justify buying now as opposed to waiting a few years when the market becomes saturated.
 
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