Please someone just make a version that can be sold for $20 or something. I love the DIY and sharing the fixes… but also at times in life I just want to click “buy now” and have a 30 second perfect fit fix, lol
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Easy and effective low frequency fix
- Thread starter MY-Y
- Start date
Can you share that? I didn’t find it from amazon or ebay…. Do you mean the 3D printed version?
I can confirm this Is a legitimate fix.
After weeks of enduring extreme ear pressure and sinus/throat discomfort while driving my Model Y, I decided to fashion a couple of these rigid hatch stops as described above by MY-Y.
I purchased the PVC end caps from HomeDepot and used my Dremel tool (cutoff wheel and barrel sander) and some sand paper, to size them properly. I adjusted the stock rubber hatch stops to there lowest setting.
I highly recommend completely removing the stock hatch stops and unscrewing the rubber bumper from the plastic nut and then lubricate the rubber bumper threads with some silicone spray and put them back together and screw them back into the hatch. This makes adjusting the stock stops much easier. Also note a small detail…. the plastic nut has a small thread ridge on the backside and the ridge needs to be placed on the cutout slot in the hatch (where it screws in) to sit flush.
The results are fantastic ! No more sinus/throat discomfort and no more constant ear pressure. The drumming that came from driving slowly over small cracks and tar snakes in the road is GONE! The pounding at higher speeds is also gone 95%. I can now drive around comfortably as in any car, and I can hear the slipstream of air outside the car. Even the tires sound normal with a typical external “ga-dump, ga-dump“ sound, instead of an interior booming.
I was seriously going to sell the Model Y, but it’s a keeper now.
There is still some room for improvement, and hopefully that can be figured out too.
Thanks MY-Y !
Tesla needs to design rigid hatch stops for their cars.
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I've read this thread many times and still don't quite understand the components. I see references to the PVC plug and the PVC cap. Is this what I should be looking for?
And does this screw into the hex part of the OEM hatch stop?
I'm going to try this step before going down the tubing route.
Thanks!
Charlotte Pipe 3/4 in. PVC Schedule 40-Plug MPT PVC021130800HD - The Home Depot
PVC schedule 40 pipe and pressure fittings are used in irrigation, underground sprinkler systems, swimming pools, outdoor applications and cold water supply lines. These fittings are highly resilient,
www.homedepot.com
And does this screw into the hex part of the OEM hatch stop?
I'm going to try this step before going down the tubing route.
Thanks!
Same as the above poster... really wish one of you guys would want to make a few extra bucks and make these for us. I would be willing to buy probably for $20 to $40 above cost.
I'm really glad this is working for some. I spent quite a lot of time figuring this out.
The fitting shown two posts above is a threaded fitting. It'll work, but looks ugly. I used a slip fitting. I got mine at Ace hardware. Lowes has something similar.
The fitting shown two posts above is a threaded fitting. It'll work, but looks ugly. I used a slip fitting. I got mine at Ace hardware. Lowes has something similar.
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There's really nothing to make ahead of time. The plug needs to be sanded down to the length your particular car needs. All you need is two plugs, a sheet of sandpaper, and time for trial and erroe. If you want to get fancy like I did, you can glue the caps on and spray with a flat black spray paint that is compatible with plastic after you get the right length.
There's really nothing to make ahead of time. The plug needs to be sanded down to the length your particular car needs. All you need is two plugs, a sheet of sandpaper, and time for trial and erroe. If you want to get fancy like I did, you can glue the caps on and spray with a flat black spray paint that is compatible with plastic after you get the right length.
Ah, I didn't catch that they need to be custom fitted to each vehicle. I'm not even sure this is my problem, and I just don't have the energy to trial and error it. My cabin has a lots of creaks coming from a couple different areas. I certainly think some is coming from the hatch, but they're not "booming," they actually seem a little more mid to high pitch... almost sounds like the glass isn't secured down and is creaking over bumps, but the glass is nice and tight... I think it's the hatch lid, but who knows.
The trial and error is actually quite quick. Start with your factory stops set to the lowest they'll go. Slip a cap on (I had to sand the inside of the PVC cap some to make slip over the OEM rubber.) Close the hatch and note how it won't latch. Pull off the cap, sand 1/16" off and repeat. With a sheet of 100 grit sandpaper sitting on a flat surface, you can just hold the cap in your hand and sand it 1/16" shorter in a few seconds.
Here is the same item at Home Depot
as stated, it’s fashioned to fit.
You can see the stock bumper, when the hatch is closed, looking under the panel gap, with a flashlight. I fully screwed in the stock rubber stops, then extended them Incrementally and closed /opened the hatch until I got them to just touch. Then measured the rubber bumper and that‘s roughly the size needed.
I then screwed the stock rubber bumper back in all the way.
I used a Dremel tool to cut off about 30% of the new PVC plug shaft and hollow out the inside a bit to fit over the stock rubber bumper. Then sanded the base and shaft mating area to fine tune the fit, making sure my hatch closed properly without too much tension and proper panel gap.
This is the ticket to eliminate ear pressure booming and sinus discomfort, making your Model Y ride like a normal car.
Forget about suspension upgrades, tires, sound deadening…..This is THE solution and it cost $4 and a little time and DIY ingenuity.
as stated, it’s fashioned to fit.
You can see the stock bumper, when the hatch is closed, looking under the panel gap, with a flashlight. I fully screwed in the stock rubber stops, then extended them Incrementally and closed /opened the hatch until I got them to just touch. Then measured the rubber bumper and that‘s roughly the size needed.
I then screwed the stock rubber bumper back in all the way.
I used a Dremel tool to cut off about 30% of the new PVC plug shaft and hollow out the inside a bit to fit over the stock rubber bumper. Then sanded the base and shaft mating area to fine tune the fit, making sure my hatch closed properly without too much tension and proper panel gap.
This is the ticket to eliminate ear pressure booming and sinus discomfort, making your Model Y ride like a normal car.
Forget about suspension upgrades, tires, sound deadening…..This is THE solution and it cost $4 and a little time and DIY ingenuity.
ElectricAnt54
Active Member
Perhaps you need to visit the optometrist? This thread is about low frequency sounds
.Grabbed two PVC 1/2" caps today. My Home Depot did not have the parts shown above. Mine should work. Tomorrow is supposed to be 53F here, so I'll mess with it during the afternoon. I don't have a real issue with the booming, but I do notice it sometimes. This is just one more fun project in my quest for ultimate quiet.
This is kinda crazy. I already ordered the $130 of sound deadening material from the Ear pain thread. I can pick these caps up tomorrow. If I get the non-threaded ones, do I need to hollow them out? I don't have a dremel, but I bet I could get a drill bit.
Also, do I need epoxy to make them stick or does wedging them on stick?
Lastly, does this leave marks or anything in case I ever want to remove for selling?
Thanks for the posts. Not entirely sure I get it yet, but with the parts poking around the hatch, I'm sure it will come to me.
Also, do I need epoxy to make them stick or does wedging them on stick?
Lastly, does this leave marks or anything in case I ever want to remove for selling?
Thanks for the posts. Not entirely sure I get it yet, but with the parts poking around the hatch, I'm sure it will come to me.
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