If they are like mine, then yes,, you'll need to enlarge the inside some. You can just roll the sandpaper into a tube and use that to make them a bit bigger on the inside. Probably a bit tedious, but it should work. The rubber stops can be pretty tight on the caps, but I decided to glue them since I decided this was a permanent solution for me.
-
Want to remove ads? Register an account and login to see fewer ads, and become a Supporting Member to remove almost all ads.
Easy and effective low frequency fix
- Thread starter MY-Y
- Start date
Just took a drive and over rough roads this is definitely an issue for me. I didn't notice it before. I have recently changed my rear suspension to MPP coilovers. Doing the fronts on Thursday. To be clear, not blaming the coilovers in any way! I just need to add the PVC caps and adjust the hatch stops again.
PecuniaNonOlet
Member
Note that several of part numbers posted in this thread are incorrect. The correct diameter is 3/4", not 1/2".
As you've probably guessed, I slipped two of these PVC covers over my outer (next to the taillights) hatch stoppers today, after sanding the insides of the PVC covers with my Dremel so the OEM stops would fit all the way inside. I didn't have to cut the new PVC parts because I removed the OEM rubber nut from the OEM stopper before slipping the PVC parts over. Then I made sure all four of my stops were in tight contact.
I'm not sure I can notice any improvement, to be honest. Textured pavement is still bad. Everywhere else is still fine. My only guess is I made a mistake by fitting the PVC covers all the way over the OEM stops. That means the OEM part of the stops is unscrewed some distance from the vehicle, which may allow compression and/or play. In other words, it may be important that the OEM stop is screwed in all the way.
As you've probably guessed, I slipped two of these PVC covers over my outer (next to the taillights) hatch stoppers today, after sanding the insides of the PVC covers with my Dremel so the OEM stops would fit all the way inside. I didn't have to cut the new PVC parts because I removed the OEM rubber nut from the OEM stopper before slipping the PVC parts over. Then I made sure all four of my stops were in tight contact.
I'm not sure I can notice any improvement, to be honest. Textured pavement is still bad. Everywhere else is still fine. My only guess is I made a mistake by fitting the PVC covers all the way over the OEM stops. That means the OEM part of the stops is unscrewed some distance from the vehicle, which may allow compression and/or play. In other words, it may be important that the OEM stop is screwed in all the way.
I bought 3/4" PVC at Home Depot yesterday. They were too big. Went back in and found 1/2" end caps. They fit. I haven't installed yet, ad they are not flat on the end so I may have to sand that part down. I did find the parts you listed at Lowes 20 minutes from me. I may run there and grab those on FRI. Installing my MPP front coilovers tomorrow afternoon.
June 2020. Mine didn't fit either, but we're close. I had to enlarge the hole a bit.
Johnny Vector
Member
Oh it's much worse than that. All pipe is listed by "trade size", which doesn't match either the inner or outer diameter of the pipe. And the I.D. also depends on what schedule the pipe is (schedules 40 and 80 are the only ones I've heard of).
For example, a 1/2" PVC pipe has an O.D. of 0.840". That's the same for all schedules, so that fittings will always fit. (And note that it's over 3/4"!) But if you care about the I.D., Schedule 80 has thicker walls so it has a smaller I.D. Schedule 40 is 0.602" I.D. while sch 80 is 0.562". Note that both of those are larger than 1/2".
Here's a chart.
I believe the O.Ds are the same for CPVC, but the I.Ds may be different.
Steel pipe has a similar but different set of size rules (although I think the O.D. still matches), and copper has yet another (with type L or M for wall thickness).
Plumbing is weird.
I have followed many of these threads, did the 3d printed rigid stoppers and nothing solved the problem completely. Finally I put the model y next to Lexus RX and inspected both closely. There are multiple differences.
1. aluminum hatch flexes much more steel hatch.
2. the rubber gasket on Lexus has a taller hard base and a relatively smaller top hollow tube. On MY, the hard base is short and a larger softer hollow tube sits on top of it. It compresses too much when pushed.
3. The stoppers are softer, we already know that.
4. the catch mechanism has too much play.
As a result, when the hatch flexes, even the rigid stops can’t keep the hatch from moving. I finally gave up and inserted vinyl tubing in the gasket hollow tube per another thread here and the problem is solved. The vinyl tube reduces gasket flexibility and effectively pushes the hatch out enough that the hatch can rest on the gasket and have a tight catch mechanism to lock it in place. No more movement, buffeting or bumping sound going over rough patches.
1. aluminum hatch flexes much more steel hatch.
2. the rubber gasket on Lexus has a taller hard base and a relatively smaller top hollow tube. On MY, the hard base is short and a larger softer hollow tube sits on top of it. It compresses too much when pushed.
3. The stoppers are softer, we already know that.
4. the catch mechanism has too much play.
As a result, when the hatch flexes, even the rigid stops can’t keep the hatch from moving. I finally gave up and inserted vinyl tubing in the gasket hollow tube per another thread here and the problem is solved. The vinyl tube reduces gasket flexibility and effectively pushes the hatch out enough that the hatch can rest on the gasket and have a tight catch mechanism to lock it in place. No more movement, buffeting or bumping sound going over rough patches.
You would think this should be fixed by service center not by the owners?
Last edited:
ElectricAnt54
Active Member
Well buffeting is not within specifications especially if it causes discomfort for people inside the car.It’s within specifications though..Doesn’t fall under warranty.
The tubing suggestion is in this thread: Ear pain/Pressure help. The same person @ilovecoffee suggested and designed the 3D printed rigid hatch stops: 3D Printed Rigid Hatch Stops (to reduce uneven road noise)
ilovecoffee
Member
As Sudsington mentioned...I went down this rabbit hole and tried everything.
I'd say:
50% solved by vinyl tubing
20% solved by rigid hatch stops
30% solved by sound deadening on top of the rear wheel wells (underneath the existing foam padding that's there)
I do also have MPP Coilovers and it does probably help contribute to minimizing as well.
Thanks @ilovecoffee for your debug efforts. Yes, I also did the sound deadening in the rear wheel area. I didn’t do the coilover, but the cabin is pretty quiet now. Additionally, when I was putting back the trims and panels after putting sound deadening foams, I foam padded few of the plastic pins that are not automotive clip type, because they were causing creaking sound (plastic over plastic friction).
@WhiteWi , there are really design issues. These problems have been solved by other car manufacturers long time ago. I guess we are paying 55-60k for a tin can placed on an amazing powertrain and now it’s up to us to either live with it or improve it as much as we can.
@WhiteWi , there are really design issues. These problems have been solved by other car manufacturers long time ago. I guess we are paying 55-60k for a tin can placed on an amazing powertrain and now it’s up to us to either live with it or improve it as much as we can.
ElectricAnt54
Active Member
It is hard to convince SC to put in the effort. First, they will claim they can’t hear the issue unless it is glaring obvious. Some people just have more sensitive ears and lower threashold.
Old comparison. I have a 2013 Chevy volt which developed a high pitched tone like your ears do after being at a loud concert aka tinnitus. The tone is only made when the gasoline powered generator is on and car is in regen mode. Took it to Chevy and the fellow could not hear it. Took it to another dealer and they can not hear it. My wife can not hear it. My kids can & my friend can.
ilovecoffee
Member
Yep. I think quite a few of us have done ride tests with service centres with usually the outcome of "I can't hear anything wrong"
Nope. Tesla acknowledged the problem in a TSB in Asia and allegedly in the USA as well but their "fix" did not seem to fix the issues for those that had it done (a little plastic piece in the hatch opening and an extra rubber seal).
Also 32 pages on the Ear Pain thread is a good indication.
There's a whitepaper on this topic with EVs and this problem is not specific to Tesla (I forget but it's buried in the ear pain thread somewhere). Audi's etron has it worse than Tesla.
If you can't hear it, it's simply because you can't hear it, not because it's not there. It's there on every stock Model Y. Some of us have better hearing to our own detriment I guess haha.
Similar threads
