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3D Printed Rigid Hatch Stops (to reduce uneven road noise)
- Thread starter ilovecoffee
- Start date
@ilovecoffee what is your theory on hatch adjustment? Have you attempted it?
I had issues with my 2020 Model Y LR but it absolutely did not have booming. I have a friend with two 23 Model Y’s and he swears that neither car booms. My car is extremely boomy, and while I’ve resolved most of it with tubing a rigid hatch stops, I can’t shake the notion that the issue could be resolved entirely with some careful hatch adjustments.
Would love to hear your thoughts.
I had issues with my 2020 Model Y LR but it absolutely did not have booming. I have a friend with two 23 Model Y’s and he swears that neither car booms. My car is extremely boomy, and while I’ve resolved most of it with tubing a rigid hatch stops, I can’t shake the notion that the issue could be resolved entirely with some careful hatch adjustments.
Would love to hear your thoughts.
I've adjusted mine easily over 100 times trying to be precise about it. I could never find a particular adjustment where it was good unless it was ridiculously extended in which case the rubber seal wasn't even making proper contact. So yes, my first attempt was trying to solve this without any add-ons or other solutions.
I have a new Model Y and am definitely sensitive to the boominess. I've done a few things from @ilovecoffee's video (thank you!) and I'll share a couple of my biggest lessons. I did the door seals and added sound dampening to the rear wheel wells (which took a few hours but wasn't as hard as it may seem). Those cut down on some noise but not the boominess at all.
The main thing with the boominess is to get the hatch adjustments right. After putting the 5/16" vinyl tubing in, the boominess was wayyy worse. I believe @ilovecoffee has said that the inner stops (the ones close to the bumper) aren't as important but that doesn't mean they're not important. I had to extend those pretty far out to get rid of the boominess. The envelope trick is what helped me here. And the important thing for those inner stops is that you need to check them from inside the trunk (at least after installing door seals). From outside, I couldn't pull the envelope so I thought it was good. But once I got in the trunk I realized I had to extend those quite a bit before it actually gripped the envelope.
I still need to try the hard hatch stops, but even without them, I've definitely made improvements. I did buy the pvc pipe, just need to get time to install it. If that works, I might try to get something 3D printed but I'll probably be fine with the pvc pipe look.
The main thing with the boominess is to get the hatch adjustments right. After putting the 5/16" vinyl tubing in, the boominess was wayyy worse. I believe @ilovecoffee has said that the inner stops (the ones close to the bumper) aren't as important but that doesn't mean they're not important. I had to extend those pretty far out to get rid of the boominess. The envelope trick is what helped me here. And the important thing for those inner stops is that you need to check them from inside the trunk (at least after installing door seals). From outside, I couldn't pull the envelope so I thought it was good. But once I got in the trunk I realized I had to extend those quite a bit before it actually gripped the envelope.
I still need to try the hard hatch stops, but even without them, I've definitely made improvements. I did buy the pvc pipe, just need to get time to install it. If that works, I might try to get something 3D printed but I'll probably be fine with the pvc pipe look.
I agree with this as well. It feels like some road surfaces cause it more than others. My first impression after installing the vinyl tubing was that the tube helped a lot. I need to drive a bit more though. At this time, the booming seems to be reduced but the road noise is still strong and any bump can make it uncomfortably loud. I'm hoping that this is resolved more when I install the Koni comfort dampeners.
It seems logical since the car makes more noise anytime it goes over bumps. The car is so rigid compared to non-EV's. That said, I could be wrong. Either way, I'm getting the upgrade this Friday and will report back on the after math.
It's the difference between driving/riding a race car, where NVH comes through huge, versus driving an old-school Caddy with plush wafting suspension. Less noise b/c less NVH comes through. Yes, suspension directly relates to road noise.
I'm a runner. If I run in a set of zero-drop minimalist shoes that have 5mm of tread and that's it (no midsole, no inserts), that's a COMPLETLEY DIFFERENT run feeling, and much harsher, than if I go pick up some Hokas with a 35 mm midsole. That's a Cadillac ride compared to the minimal shoe. But they're both connecting to my feet. And so I didn't change the mounts or bearings, so to speak, because I've got the same feet/ankle/leg mounting system.
If you change the thing that connects between the wheels, and suspends the car, even if you don't change how those things connect to said car, you're going to change the way it rides. I used to drive a Lincoln Navigator. It had air ride bag suspension instead of the (virtually) same vehicle of a Ford Expedition that used a type of coil/strut system. That's why they sell aftermarket bag systems for Expeditions...because it changes the ride.
If you change the amount of squish something has, it's going to change the overall experience. I have no idea what @justtestla is installing, but if it's a softer experience than the factory setup, my guess would be that it's going to mean that translates into less total vibrations that reverb through the system as a whole, which is going to decrease noise.
jgrgnt
Member
I have MPP Comfort coilovers set to fully soft and the booming is still there.
With the coilovers and switch from 21" wheels to 19" wheels, I expected some reduction in boominess. But it's maybe 5-10% less, if that.
Do it for ride comfort, do it for handling, do it for looks, but don't do it to resolve the booming. You will be disappointed.
With the coilovers and switch from 21" wheels to 19" wheels, I expected some reduction in boominess. But it's maybe 5-10% less, if that.
Do it for ride comfort, do it for handling, do it for looks, but don't do it to resolve the booming. You will be disappointed.
I don't run, but I'll play along. What you are describing is tire sidewall and tread pattern, not suspension.
For a comfort based suspension it changes the ride, not the road noise.
The only things that helped with the booming was to:
1. Have Tesla adjust the trunk alignment
2. Make sure your trunk doesn't pop up a little as you close the side doors. Mine was doing that and I could show the service center. And they agreed that it should not do that.
3. Add the clear vinyl tubing....This really works. It all made sense in my experience. The seal wasn't tight and the hatch was jumping which caused air pressure and caused ear pain. Making that seal taller solved the issue.
I am convinced that some have the issue due to the alignment imperfections in the hatch.
jgrgnt
Member
I should clarify that I'm referring specifically to the low-frequency booming when I say that coilovers aren't the solution.
There are two separate issues:
I gave up on trying to fix the low frequency booming. I've accepted that it will always be there, so I just turn up the music.
There are two separate issues:
- low frequency booming
- pressure buffeting caused by a loose, misaligned, or poorly secured tailgate, which causes ear discomfort or pain
I gave up on trying to fix the low frequency booming. I've accepted that it will always be there, so I just turn up the music.
hill Clinton
Member
had the same 404 issue with trying to download all the files at once, but didn’t have an issue downloading them one by one.
