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FYI, just filed a complaint with NHTSA in regards to subframe failure, hopefully we can enough of these reports made to have this issue resolved, thanks for the advice.For anyone this has happened to, please make sure you file it with the NHTSA:
https://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/VehicleComplaint/
I have a late 2012 P85 with 65k miles and have had almost the exact same repair and customer service experience except even worse. They have had my car for 2 weeks and want $2800 to replace the rear sub frame assembly. My wife was driving the vehicle at 3 mph making a uturn! Unacceptable. I am trying to take it up the ladder but have had no luck. I will be selling this car and telling every know not to buy a Tesla if they won’t stand behind their engineering flaws!
No but I will tomorrow after reading this thread. Thanks!Did you file an NHTSA vehicle complaint?
Yes, but the difference is that "engine mounts" are made with rubber bushings which are designed to move and absorb the severe vibration of thousands of small explosions happening within an ICE. The rubber can and does wear out. These are solid connection points which should be designed to handle the known loads and stresses exerted by the electric motor.
Some might argue that the stresses can be changed by issues with alignment or abuse. There were no such conditions in this case, and as I see it, this has to be caused by either a latent defect in the manufacturing/materials or an engineering failure. In the former case, I may be a one of. In the latter case, I may be the canary in the coalmine. In either case, it seems like a good opportunity for Tesla Service to step up and solve the problem. My view is that if this is a first occurrence, the part should be sent to Freemont for analysis.
you should probably file this form as wellDidn't realize this had become a common thing...mine was $3500
DU was replaced within a month of subframe failure ..which some gear lash in reverse is what caused the failure IMO
gently backing up from a slow forward roll popped it.
About i week later I managed to strip the DU gears for a replacement DU. definitely related but this was not warranty covered because it is not part of the DU
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I would be pretty surprised if they could get out of it if you’re under the bumper to bumper warranty. Power train warranty almost certainly won’t cover it though.Would this be covered under a CPO/used warranty?
You guys are making me nervous. My 2013 P85+ has about 62k miles. I have a lead foot. Hopefully if it breaks the extended warranty will cover it. Did anyone answer the question of wh
Not sure if its viewable after removing the aero covers under the car. Extended warranty should cover it . I was more concerned with if it had damaged the drive unit in any way .You guys are making me nervous. My 2013 P85+ has about 62k miles. I have a lead foot. Hopefully if it breaks the extended warranty will cover it. Did anyone answer the question of whether it's viewable without ripping everything apart?
I have exactly the same symptoms. At first i thought it is drive unit, cause one of my previous units made similar noises before it was replaced. But unfortunately it is subframe mount. 78k miles on the clock.Not sure if its viewable after removing the aero covers under the car. Extended warranty should cover it . I was more concerned with if it had damaged the drive unit in any way .
the first time I noticed it was at low speeds under 15 mph , transitioning from acceleration to regen and the other way too. there would be a audible clunk/knock and could feel it like a dull this in the rear . I was able to repeat it on demand , so I took a technician at the sc for a spin , he identified it straight away broken mount with drive unit hitting frame.
I thought i have a case of their fault cause i had 2 drive units replaced during 2019. That means frame was unscrewed and tighten up two extra times... but no luck.
i guess i have to man up and pick up this bill
Thought about it, they said they might void DU warranty if i go that directionEither that or take your care to someone that can just weld new mounts on to the sub-frame. Should be a lot cheaper. (Well, I guess ~50% of the cost is labor, and you a lot of shops won't want to mess with dropping the motor and all, but it isn't that big of a deal.)