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Exact same thing on my p85 2013. Went to reverse into my driveway and “clunk clunk” every 12”. Took it in thinking it was drive unit, technician put it on the lift and took cover off looking right in that area and said “yup it’s subframe”. Service writer tried telling me this could happen from hard accelerations, what? I told them this vehicle was designed for the power and absolute ridiculous to say that, spoke to the service manager and said it’s out of warranty (bumper to bumper warranty by 2 months) and would have only been caused by impact (which hasn’t touched a curb even slightly nor an accident.) Tesla needs to own up that this is a weak point.
David.85D I agree with you, spreading or tightening the tabs would put them outside of there OEM design spec. Then torque from the motor would break one and the second tab would follow quite quickly. Looking at most of the failure pictures you can see one side is bashed and the other looks like a fresh crack.
I'm also thinking a misalignment in the subframe would cause issues as well. Just some observations.
Probably going to take the sub-frame to my favorite machine/engineering shop and have them cut out the old stuff and weld a nice big block on either side with a longer bolt.
Then visit an awesome body/alignment shop and have everything lined up just right.
I'm also thinking a misalignment in the subframe would cause issues as well. Just some observations.
Probably going to take the sub-frame to my favorite machine/engineering shop and have them cut out the old stuff and weld a nice big block on either side with a longer bolt.
Then visit an awesome body/alignment shop and have everything lined up just right.
nexsuperne101
Closed
I've just been told by Tesla Chelmsford (UK) service centre that my rear sub frame is cracked. My car is a 2014 P85. Drive unit (the 3rd one since 23,000 miles) was replaced in July. I have driven 5000 miles since then, so the car is up to 73,000 miles now.
It was all fine until last week, when I missed my turning on a country road. I braked hard (there was nothing behind me), came to a complete stop, put it in reverse, backed up about 40 feet, came to a complete stop again, put it in drive and then had this bang every so often from that point. I thought it was sloppy driveshafts, but it only made the bang in reverse. Tesla are now putting a quote together to fix it, as its not part of the drivetrain (go figure?), and apparently putting it into reverse before stopping can cause this. You can't actually put it in reverse while still moving , as the software stops that happening, so they are lying.
Looking at going legal with this, as I have all the time in the world, and will quite happily stand outside the Tesla showroom telling all the new potential customers about how Tesla really look after their customers. As an Engineer, I can see this is a piss poor design. The fact that it breaks with normal driving to so many of us just proves that.
It was all fine until last week, when I missed my turning on a country road. I braked hard (there was nothing behind me), came to a complete stop, put it in reverse, backed up about 40 feet, came to a complete stop again, put it in drive and then had this bang every so often from that point. I thought it was sloppy driveshafts, but it only made the bang in reverse. Tesla are now putting a quote together to fix it, as its not part of the drivetrain (go figure?), and apparently putting it into reverse before stopping can cause this. You can't actually put it in reverse while still moving , as the software stops that happening, so they are lying.
Looking at going legal with this, as I have all the time in the world, and will quite happily stand outside the Tesla showroom telling all the new potential customers about how Tesla really look after their customers. As an Engineer, I can see this is a piss poor design. The fact that it breaks with normal driving to so many of us just proves that.
tmyl21
Member
@nexsuperne101 hey so this 'bang every so often' as you describe, may I ask if this can be classified as a 'creek' or a creeking noise when backing from a standstill and also starting out forward too which is what I am experiencing now.
nexsuperne101
Closed
Where's the creak from? I sent mine in for a creek from the front , but they couldn't find anything. This is a definite bang from the back. I guess it could start as a creak until the metal tab finally breaks and the motor is free to twist.
This and the suspension issues just seem like a case of using aluminum and not correctly calculating the number of load cycles a piece can tolerate before it fails.
Perhaps someone with FEA experience can guess at how many cycles this part could tolerate under estimated loads before it will fail? Same with how many bumps the suspension can take?
Some stuff ought to be steel (or titanium if you're spendy).
Perhaps someone with FEA experience can guess at how many cycles this part could tolerate under estimated loads before it will fail? Same with how many bumps the suspension can take?
Some stuff ought to be steel (or titanium if you're spendy).
nexsuperne101
Closed
I would like to know how many of us have had to pay for new subframes. Time to push for a recall, as its a safety issue.
Meanwhile, I've messaged the finance company. I've paid just over 50% on HP and I'm over 50% of the time through my term. I have explained the situation, and that the amount of money involved is extortionate, so if they can't persuade Tesla to sort this under goodwill, then they get their car back, and I walk away.
I'm not being held to ransom for Tesla's piss poor engineering.
Meanwhile, I've messaged the finance company. I've paid just over 50% on HP and I'm over 50% of the time through my term. I have explained the situation, and that the amount of money involved is extortionate, so if they can't persuade Tesla to sort this under goodwill, then they get their car back, and I walk away.
I'm not being held to ransom for Tesla's piss poor engineering.
tmyl21
Member
It is definitely a creak from the rear in a non-dual motor MS. I have had it for awhile now and just haven't thought too much about it. Just rear motor and it's like a creak or a 'pop' but maybe it can be described as a bang, but like a high pitch sound as opposed to a dead thump. ALMOST like the sound of a nail piercing through a tire to describe it as accurately as possible. It's strange. For some time I had initially thought it was a tire flexing in one of the rear tires perhaps where a hole was plugged in the past. It's not coming from the tires I am confident of now.
I made a service appt for 11/6 and described the issue in the app and also a separate issue of a 'knock' or 'thump' when letting off the accelerator right before regen initiates. Maybe the splines need to be repacked with heavy lube??? Idea from other posts.
Tesla confirmed the appt with a service invoice for $124.76 which amounts to $58.50 plus tax for each issue. I am sure this is a starting point to evaluate and go from there though.
I made a service appt for 11/6 and described the issue in the app and also a separate issue of a 'knock' or 'thump' when letting off the accelerator right before regen initiates. Maybe the splines need to be repacked with heavy lube??? Idea from other posts.
Tesla confirmed the appt with a service invoice for $124.76 which amounts to $58.50 plus tax for each issue. I am sure this is a starting point to evaluate and go from there though.
What is the safety issue? (Note that two regulatory agencies have determined that the failing lower rear control arms that causes significant negative camber is not a safety issue.)
nexsuperne101
Closed
That sounds like the drive unit letting go. That will be under the 8 year warranty. You can confirm the noise by driving in reverse and letting the accelerator go, as the regen will load up and take up the drivetrain slack.
nexsuperne101
Closed
if the motor tabs both break, then the only thing holding it it are the push fit drive shafts and the connecting power cables. 650lb of metal just waiting to fall out.
Well it doesn't weigh 650 lbs, it looks like it weighs closer to 300 lbs. I'm not positive but it looks to me like it has been designed such that even if both the front and rear mounts break, and both wheels broke off releasing the axels, that it still wouldn't just fall through the cradle/sub-frame.
I think the point the safety agencies are making is that you know when it has failed and can safely bring the car to a stop and get it repaired long before anything catastrophic occurs..
tmyl21
Member
@nexsuperne101
So what do you mean 'it sounds like the drive unit letting go' if you don't mind expanding on your statement.
And, also that the 'regen will load up and take up the drive train slack?
So what do you mean 'it sounds like the drive unit letting go' if you don't mind expanding on your statement.
And, also that the 'regen will load up and take up the drive train slack?
EXACT same thing happened to me just after my last DU was just replaced, gears were stripped completely from slop, which the firmware/ motor should sense in all new versions (not complete normal driving. autocrossed it gently)
I did a roll forward facing down a slight hill, stopped, put in reverse and popped the rear motor mount. ( and you can roll forwards while in reverse. or put it in reverse at ~1-2mph )
$3500 for subframe installed. ...(ok make it worse the loaner X had a loose center valence between the wing doors and broke a door glass when I opened the door...goes to my insurance!?)
So have a new DU that I don't race on anymore and a clean subframe...and a 3p to race
little disappointed in some of the issues in S design that were changed and not applied retroactively as they said they would...mainly the touchscreen
ADEEL421
Member
I think you should stick to 98 Corolla. It will outlast Tesla and you will be happy.
