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tmyl21
Member
A word to the wise out there, as Joe Biden has been saying lately ‘Don’t’ supercharge unless absolutely necessary.
I supercharged all too often in the failed pack with maybe 75,000 miles on it. Never beat on the car, non-garaged (it may matter) many variables.
Ultimately it seems water ingress was the culprit and in my opinion, those A version packs which failed on me weren’t as tightly sealed as hopefully these newer C packs may be fingers crossed
I supercharged all too often in the failed pack with maybe 75,000 miles on it. Never beat on the car, non-garaged (it may matter) many variables.
Ultimately it seems water ingress was the culprit and in my opinion, those A version packs which failed on me weren’t as tightly sealed as hopefully these newer C packs may be fingers crossed
Man Tesla keeps winning awards for excellent customer service. If you are gonna bend someone over for 12k out of warranty, maybe you should not software limit the pack
( unbelievable)For every person that says supercharging is a problem another says they’ve supercharged x gazillion times with no issues. Conclusion- there is no evidence that frequent supercharging causes premature failure in hv packs due to Tesla’s (advanced?) BMS.
I have seen EV shops do repairs like this. It will not stop the motor mount from failing again and if Tesla replaces the subframe the same problem still exist.
Here is a picture of the motor mounts that an EV shop repaired (got it off of YouTube). From the red line upwards the mount can still crack. The red arrows are also a weak spot when the mounting holes are drilled. The blue vertical lines are the thin aluminum (about an 1/8th inch thick) that is being used.
Here is a picture of the motor mounts that an EV shop repaired (got it off of YouTube). From the red line upwards the mount can still crack. The red arrows are also a weak spot when the mounting holes are drilled. The blue vertical lines are the thin aluminum (about an 1/8th inch thick) that is being used.
Triangular gusset plates should be welded like this for maximum strength using 6061 or 7075 billet aluminum. A CNC machined piece would be a lot better and is something that I will look into making soon.
Subframe failure is not normal wear and tear. It is a structural part of the frame that is designed to hold the motor and inverter in place.
Aggressive driving is an excuse that Tesla uses not to honor your warranty. Tell them to prove that aggressive driving is the cause and point them to the Magnuson Moss warranty act if your car is under warranty.
Aggressive driving is an excuse that Tesla uses not to honor your warranty. Tell them to prove that aggressive driving is the cause and point them to the Magnuson Moss warranty act if your car is under warranty.
I haven't heard of anyone reporting that Tesla didn't replace the subframe if it failed during the bumper-to-bumper warranty period.
xAgyex
Member
@Gixx1300R I commend you for doing this. Need more out of the box thinkers like yourself here. Thanks for sharing your knowledge...now I need to learn how to tig weld.
How is it holding up so far?
Black306
Active Member
IMO, skip the aluminum and bolt on steel. Maybe even have it wrap around the subframe to spread the load.
Frame Failure called "Normal Wear and Tear" by Tesla Service
Sounds like an opportunity for someone to come out with an aftermarket support bracket. '03/'04 Mustang Cobras are notorious for breaking rear differential covers cause of the torque they make. One solution is an aftermarket bracket that bolts over the factory cover. I can see a steel brace...
teslamotorsclub.com
That would require that the subframe to be removed for installation. The tangs on the subframe would have to be cut off and the welds removed down to a smooth surface. To CNC machine such a piece would be a lot more than $500.
Much thanks, It is holding up extremely well. I have put it through it paces with multiple hard braking, acceleration, go back and forth from reverse (to a full stop) and drive. no signs of movement. The welds aren't pretty, but they are holding up.
Black306
Active Member
Not if the steel tangs were over the stock aluminum ones. I don’t have an S to review, so I’m not sure if there is enough space. At the very least, a longer bolt would be needed to overcome the added thickness of the steel tangs.
Or, like you said, grind off the stock tangs then bolt steel.
Black306
Active Member
Doesn’t have to be CNCed. The IRS bracket pictured is less than $200.
OK, it’ll be $500 after adding Tesla-tax.
You can add me to the “another says” list. I have over 240k miles in my 2015 85D with 40% supercharging. 11% battery degradation. I’m pretty happy with that. I never leave it sitting after charging to 90%.
