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what is for and against using Step Up/Down Voltage Transformer Converter - AC 110/220 V - 100 Watts
Example from amazon
Amazon
The only way this would work, is if you could find 2 different 120V outlets that are on different legs of the 240V feed. Then, if you had an adaptor that plugged into both 120V outlets you could pull 240V X 12A or 2880 Amps. You would have to use a 240V plug from Tesla and make sure that you set the charging rate to 12 Amps. This could get you 6 miles/hour charging rate.
The only way this would work, is if you could find 2 different 120V outlets that are on different legs of the 240V feed. Then, if you had an adaptor that plugged into both 120V outlets you could pull 240V X 12A or 2880 Amps. You would have to use a 240V plug from Tesla and make sure that you set the charging rate to 12 Amps. This could get you 6 miles/hour charging rate.
I sure hope you included some protection, maybe relays, so that if one plug is unplugged it is not "hot" through the UMC to the other leg hot. Especially important when away from home using someone else's circuits where some one, for what ever reason, might unplug one cord.Yeehaw! Can't do that with gas. I built for $ 59.00 a 2 plug 120 volt to single stove plug, must set amps to 14 or less. 12 is proper for not popping breakers. Bumps me from 5-6 kms/hr to 13-14 kms/hr. Nice when away from home.
Yeehaw! Can't do that with gas. I built for $ 59.00 a 2 plug 120 volt to single stove plug, must set amps to 14 or less. 12 is proper for not popping breakers. Bumps me from 5-6 kms/hr to 13-14 kms/hr. Nice when away from home.
I just wire in a 50 amp circuit breaker to the breaker box (for instance, at my brother's house) with 6-3 w/ground cable to a 14-50 outlet, and plug in at 40 amps. 2 hot wires, 2 ground wires (yeah, ground and neutral to same buss bar) seems to be a lot simpler than looking for two legs of 120 in separate parts of the house and charging at 1/3 the rate with a combiner plug. (I about have him talked into doing a permanent outlet.)
I sure hope you included some protection, maybe relays, so that if one plug is unplugged it is not "hot" through the UMC to the other leg hot. Especially important when away from home using someone else's circuits where some one, for what ever reason, might unplug one cord.
Oh, does this really happen through the UMC? I guess a circuit is made between the two hots. I guess you would provide protection by having two relays, each 120v hot energizing a relay that would allow current to flow for the other hot. So if one of the 120v plugs got unplugged, it would break the connection for the other hot and thus nothing would be connected to the UMC. This would require the neutrals be used for each 120v receptacle to energize the relays. And here I thought making a 2x120v adapter would be easy!
If a person builds one, USE THE RELAYS. I can not speak for the Tesla UMC, but with the Nissan unit, the exposed plug will be hot if the relays are not used and one plug is unplugged while the EVSE is plugged into the box. Makes no difference if the EVSE is plugged into the car or not. Can't see why it would be different with the Tesla unit.What Puyallup Bill was referring to was an electrical shock danger if only one plug is plugged in. If the UMC is plugged into the adapter and into the car, it is possible that the unplugged plug will see 120v hot on its hot blade coming from the other plugged in plug through the UMC and car charger electronics. I haven't verified this myself, but I could see how it could happen. Anyone know for sure?
What Puyallup Bill was referring to was an electrical shock danger if only one plug is plugged in. If the UMC is plugged into the adapter and into the car, it is possible that the unplugged plug will see 120v hot on its hot blade coming from the other plugged in plug through the UMC and car charger electronics. I haven't verified this myself, but I could see how it could happen. Anyone know for sure?
These types of problems are why a "quick 220" or "easy 240" or whatever violate NEC and are not recommended.
No power is available at the 240 volt outlet until BOTH 120 volt power cords are plugged into 120 volt outlets that are electrically out of phase. Should one of the 120 volt power cords lose power or become disconnected, ALL power is immediately cut off from 240 volt outlet. This protects the user and the equipment from the effects of the equipment receiving the wrong voltage by mistake or circumstance.
Until a 120 volt power cord is connected to a 120 volt electrical source, it is electrically isolated from the electrical circuits of the Quick 220 Power Supply. This protects the user from accidental shock through the exposed plug contacts.
If one of the 120 volt supply outlets of the building is wired incorrectly and has the hot and neutral lines reversed, the Quick 220 Power Supply stops any electricity from being connected to the 240 volt outlet. This prevents potential injury to the user and damage to the connected equipment.