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Given the most recent price cuts (April 19) what is the advantage of buying the Model Y LR instead of the SR?

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Greetings!

I am seriously considering a Model Y, but with the new 4680 battery pack in the SR version now readily available, what is the benefit of ordering the LR version?

My understanding is that the 4680 battery pack can be charged to higher everyday levels (90-100%) without long term degradation. If that's true, the LR version on paper has about 50 miles greater stated range than the SR, but at a 80% charge the LR is down to 265 miles of range, about equal to the 4680 pack charged to 95% capacity.

If that is indeed possible the SR seems to have the same, if not greater, effective range to the LR version. Given that, I'm inclined to buy the SR 4680 pack version. Are my assumptions correct (charging rates sourced from various internet EV sites)?

Assuming that the mileage range is essentially equal, what features does the LR have that I wouldn't get with the SR model?

Thank you for the help. The rapid pace of price changes and tax credits is challenging to navigate.
 
Greetings!

I am seriously considering a Model Y, but with the new 4680 battery pack in the SR version now readily available, what is the benefit of ordering the LR version?

My understanding is that the 4680 battery pack can be charged to higher everyday levels (90-100%) without long term degradation. If that's true, the LR version on paper has about 50 miles greater stated range than the SR, but at a 80% charge the LR is down to 265 miles of range, about equal to the 4680 pack charged to 95% capacity.

If that is indeed possible the SR seems to have the same, if not greater, effective range to the LR version. Given that, I'm inclined to buy the SR 4680 pack version. Are my assumptions correct (charging rates sourced from various internet EV sites)?

Assuming that the mileage range is essentially equal, what features does the LR have that I wouldn't get with the SR model?

Thank you for the help. The rapid pace of price changes and tax credits is challenging to navigate.
The 4680 cannot be charged to 100%. You are thinking about the LFP, which isn't currently offered in a MY in NA. It has the same charging recommendations as the LR, but less kwh battery.

The AWD has less range, charges slower, and has slower acceleration. It's up to you if those trade offs are worth the cost.
 
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Lencap, wifey and I drive both a MY AWD LR and a M3 SR LFP. Both great but different (duh) vehicles. We generally use the M3 for local travel (we did do a trip from southern Tucson to Kingman AZ last Fall and it was a breeze. Comfy car.).

The MY carries a good deal more "stuff," has a larger interior and, for us old folks (80ish...) is considerably easier to enter and exit. The M3 is very comfortable once inside and as the car is a bit smaller than the "Y" thus easier to park and such (not really a big deal, but anyway...). It's also a tad sportier. Remarkable how peppy that SR is.

The way I'd determine which one I went for would be to test drive both models. Let your butt inform you which of the two is the best car to buy!!

Rich
 
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My understanding is that the 4680 battery pack can be charged to higher everyday levels (90-100%) without long term degradation.

This understanding is currently incorrect.

Also, not much has changed in Tesla land from when you decided to sell your other tesla in 2021. If anything, other than price, things are perceived by many to be worse than they were then. Service is perceived by many to be worse (more cars sold), wait times for repair are longer than they were then, Vehicles dont have Ultrasonic sensors / parking aids that you had in yours back then (its done by tesla vision but most consider that to be worse).

There is more competition now, as you pointed out back then. if you choose to buy one again, do so knowing all the reasons you chose to sell in the first place still exist.
 
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Thanks to everyone for the help, especially clearing up my misunderstanding of the battery packs in each car. Which models currently have the newer 4680 battery pack, and can that pack be charged beyond the 80% level suggested by Tesla on a regular basis?
 
Thanks to everyone for the help, especially clearing up my misunderstanding of the battery packs in each car. Which models currently have the newer 4680 battery pack, and can that pack be charged beyond the 80% level suggested by Tesla on a regular basis?
Only the Model Y AWD has the 4680 battery.

No model Y in the US has a LFP battery that can/should regularly be charged to 100%.
 
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Thanks to everyone for the help, especially clearing up my misunderstanding of the battery packs in each car. Which models currently have the newer 4680 battery pack, and can that pack be charged beyond the 80% level suggested by Tesla on a regular basis?
The only battery that can be charged to 100% without degradation is the LFP in the M3 standard range.

The Model Y AWD is the only car with the 4680 battery, but as of now, there's no benefit to this battery for customers.

There's no reason to desire or want the 4680 over the 2170 (MYP, MY LR, M3P, M3 LR) or 18650 (MS/X) in its current state.
 
In my haste to post I left out some information that may be helpful. I currently own a 2023 Chevrolet Bolt EUV that was delivered on January 31, 2023 and the dealer verified qualifies for the entire $7500 EV tax credit. I bought that car because I wanted a "SUV" type of vehicle for easier carting of "stuff" since our other car (2021 BMW 330e, a Plug in hybrid) is a very comfortable highway car.

Your posts reminded me why I sold the Tesla - the ride quality. When my wife got her car I was amazed how much more composed, quiet and comfortable it is compared to my M3. Driving her car soon became my preferred ride, and I could no longer ignore the choppy M3 ride or other faults.

The EUV is a "city car", fine with the indicated range, and to my surprise it far exceeds its EPA range estimate. I regularly get 280-300 mile range driving in town with modest climate control demands. It is also a "soft" ride - not sports car fun, but a quiet sedate ride which is welcome as seniors for both my wife and I. Truth be told it has better ride comfort than my 2018 M3, and the tire noise is far less. It's also an amazing bargain, especially with the tax credit.

The interest in the Y is largely driven by the greater room in the car, but most importantly it's a car that I feel comfortable driving anywhere with the security of the Tesla charging network supporting me. Chevy gives a $500 credit for EVGO charging, but the service/system is terrible. Poorly maintained and difficult to find a station where I usually travel.

The biggest driver of my possible switch is the dramatically lower cost of the Y. My friend bought her car about a year ago, and paid almost $15K more for it than the current price, including the tax credits. When I ordered the EUV last summer the Y was over $65K! Now it's $50K, and qualifies for $7500 tax credit. That difference makes it very attractive for me, primarily since the Tesla gives us two "real cars" where charging access/time isn't a problem. The major shortfall of the EUV is the 55KWh max charging rate. It only delivers 90 miles of range in 30-40 minutes - it's not a road car. The Y is.

The unknown, and I've spoken with tax experts who disagree, is the status of my $7500 tax credit when I bought the EUV. The tax law reads that the tax credit does not apply for cars that are purchased for resale. I didn't buy the EUV for resale; I traded my then current car (2021 Miata) and transferred the plate to the EUV. I've owned it for nearly 3 months, but the low price on the Y makes me strongly consider swapping it for a Y - warts and all. The problem is that if I lose the first tax credit the numbers don't work.

So I have two issues - do I put up with the Tesla shortfalls in order to gain a car that I can drive anywhere and anytime, or do I keep the EUV? And if I sell the EUV do I lose the original $7500 tax credit, which makes the swap far less attractive?
 
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The unknown, and I've spoken with tax experts who disagree, is the status of my $7500 tax credit when I bought the EUV. The tax law reads that the tax credit does not apply for cars that are purchased for resale. I didn't buy the EUV for resale; I traded my then current car (2021 Miata) and transferred the plate to the EUV. I've owned it for nearly 3 months, but the low price on the Y makes me strongly consider swapping it for a Y - warts and all. The problem is that if I lose the first tax credit the numbers don't work.

So I have two issues - do I put up with the Tesla shortfalls in order to gain a car that I can drive anywhere and anytime, or do I keep the EUV? And if I sell the EUV do I lose the original $7500 tax credit, which makes the swap far less attractive?

I think you'll get both credits since intent matters, Their is no holding period in the law IMHO. I would consider SR too since it's usually one extra stop a SC if you do the math here Go Anywhere | Tesla

Is the EUV roomy? I wish the Blazer was avail now.
 
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but at a 80% charge the LR is down to 265 miles of range, about equal to the 4680 pack charged to 95% capacity
You usually charge LR to 80% for daily commute. But for long drives, you have the option to charge it to 100% the night before. This helps me drive non-stop to my usual destinations in the 200+ mile range (i.e, fill up on my way back, and not stop during the onward trip).
You cant do that with a 4680 pack.
 
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In my haste to post I left out some information that may be helpful. I currently own a 2023 Chevrolet Bolt EUV that was delivered on January 31, 2023 and the dealer verified qualifies for the entire $7500 EV tax credit. I bought that car because I wanted a "SUV" type of vehicle for easier carting of "stuff" since our other car (2021 BMW 330e, a Plug in hybrid) is a very comfortable highway car.

......................................
The unknown, and I've spoken with tax experts who disagree, is the status of my $7500 tax credit when I bought the EUV. The tax law reads that the tax credit does not apply for cars that are purchased for resale. I didn't buy the EUV for resale; I traded my then current car (2021 Miata) and transferred the plate to the EUV. I've owned it for nearly 3 months, but the low price on the Y makes me strongly consider swapping it for a Y - warts and all. The problem is that if I lose the first tax credit the numbers don't work.

So I have two issues - do I put up with the Tesla shortfalls in order to gain a car that I can drive anywhere and anytime, or do I keep the EUV? And if I sell the EUV do I lose the original $7500 tax credit, which makes the swap far less attractive?
I bought a Nissan Leaf last November 2022 and sold it back to the dealer 3 weeks later when my Tesla was scheduled to be delivered.

My CPA Tax professional told me there is no provision that requires you keep the car for any period of time. So I filed my 2022 return and applied the $7,500 tax credit already. I already received a refund for $6,800 for overpayment instead of owing $700 if I hadn't bought the Leaf EV. There was no issue.
 
Greetings!

I am seriously considering a Model Y, but with the new 4680 battery pack in the SR version now readily available, what is the benefit of ordering the LR version?

My understanding is that the 4680 battery pack can be charged to higher everyday levels (90-100%) without long term degradation. If that's true, the LR version on paper has about 50 miles greater stated range than the SR, but at a 80% charge the LR is down to 265 miles of range, about equal to the 4680 pack charged to 95% capacity.

If that is indeed possible the SR seems to have the same, if not greater, effective range to the LR version. Given that, I'm inclined to buy the SR 4680 pack version. Are my assumptions correct (charging rates sourced from various internet EV sites)?

Assuming that the mileage range is essentially equal, what features does the LR have that I wouldn't get with the SR model?

Thank you for the help. The rapid pace of price changes and tax credits is challenging to navigate.
I bought a MYLR in December. Then in February I ordered a MYAWD w/4680 battery from existing inventory for my wife. Before it came in I changed the order to a existing inventory MYLR for $4k more. My logic was another ~50 miles of range and a proven pack with Panasonic cells. I don;'t like to be the first on the block with new technology.
 
I bought a MYLR in December. Then in February I ordered a MYAWD w/4680 battery from existing inventory for my wife. Before it came in I changed the order to a existing inventory MYLR for $4k more. My logic was another ~50 miles of range and a proven pack with Panasonic cells. I don;'t like to be the first on the block with new technology.

It's been used in China for a while. TSLA has a great warranty too.
 
It's been used in China for a while. TSLA has a great warranty too.
Now you tell me :)

Actually we paid cash for the MYLR car, so the one time difference is now forgotten vs if we had a loan.

We routinely make a round trip with the MYLR that leaves us with 10% range left at the end of the trip. With a MYAWD we would need to stop and charge somewhere on the trip.
 
Now you tell me :)

Actually we paid cash for the MYLR car, so the one time difference is now forgotten vs if we had a loan.

We routinely make a round trip with the MYLR that leaves us with 10% range left at the end of the trip. With a MYAWD we would need to stop and charge somewhere on the trip.

I hear ya. Same tough decision but with kids we stop anyways and we'll do it at SC. Problem solved.
 
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I bought a MYLR in December. Then in February I ordered a MYAWD w/4680 battery from existing inventory for my wife. Before it came in I changed the order to a existing inventory MYLR for $4k more. My logic was another ~50 miles of range and a proven pack with Panasonic cells. I don;'t like to be the first on the block with new technology.

oh man I so almost did that last fall but them my TM3 got moved up to September so I just went 2 weeks with no extra car. That was tempting though.