Be prepared to wait 6 to 9 months from initial release to get an AWD Y even as an owner.
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ModelNforNerd
Active Member
That's fine. I'll still have my Model 3.
It will be a much more enjoyable wait than this one.
Of course there will be differences. But we're talking safety here. I highly doubt Musk is going to artificially hold back on safety to help differentiate the S/X. He can do that with non-safety features like the air suspension, fancier seats, etc.
I too planned on AWD when I ordered, but after having a better idea of the timeline now and factoring in rebates, I'll go with RWD and hope that the hype re. Tesla RWD in snow is accurate. I'll need it to be, driving Alaska with snow 6 months out of the year... If it doesn't meet expectations, then I'll just trade up in a year or two.
WileyTheMan
Peanut Gallery Member
Man, in that environment I'd wait for AWD. I have relatives in Minnesota and driving there in the winter was a challenge with traction (granted it wasn't a Tesla, but still).
You're right about RWD in an ICE being challenging. I drove a RWD Dodge Dakota for 5 years of college in Minnesota, and while it got me around, it definitely got squirrelly at times. In the end, this will come down to where we're at with the rebates when I get my reservation email.
I wonder how many people here going for the RWD "to get it sooner" to get the full $7500 credit realize how the tax credit actually works?
Unless your end of year liability (what you owe the Feds) is greater than the credit you are getting, you are SOL. Example: If you only owe the feds $1000, and you are eligible for the full $7500, guess what, your bill goes to $0, and the remaining $6500 credit is gone. It's only good for one year. No rollovers. Etc. You would have to owe > $7500 to realize the full credit.
Unless your end of year liability (what you owe the Feds) is greater than the credit you are getting, you are SOL. Example: If you only owe the feds $1000, and you are eligible for the full $7500, guess what, your bill goes to $0, and the remaining $6500 credit is gone. It's only good for one year. No rollovers. Etc. You would have to owe > $7500 to realize the full credit.
Point in case. Just curious, jpkreger, whether you understand that it is not a rebate? I just learned of this myself, today. See my post below yours, and do some googling on how the credit works.
sdugan99
Member
Just to clarify it is not "what you owe at the end of the year" It is your tax liability for the year. So you don't have to owe $7,500 when you file your taxes ie write a $7500 check. You just have to have a total liability for the full year this includes amounts you had withheld during the year.
sdugan99
Member
I am getting RWD to get it sooner and increase chances of the tax credit. I have a 4x4 I can drive the one day it snows here in Maryland.
Live in SoCal. While I'd like to get the higher performing AWD M3, I don't want to wait for a variety of reasons (tax credit being the main one). Current deliver expectation is Dec 17 - Feb 18, so I don't want to wait another 6-9 months after already waiting 18 months!
Knightshade
Well-Known Member
Yup... and I would hope the # of folks who can afford a ~$50,000 car and have less than $7500 in tax liability isn't that high (though given the amount of consumer debt in the US I may be overly optimistic there)
I'm in upstate NY and have an 1/8 mile long driveway, which really, really benefits from AWD. I'm a 3/31 reservation holder and very disappointed that the dual motor models are a year out. I was going to wait, but just placed a second model 3 reservation and am now thinking I'll get the RWD as soon as possible, then trade up when the P-AWD version is available. I'm predicting that early model 3 cars will hold their value pretty well given the high demand/long wait-list and the expiration of the tax credits.
Oh, yeah, just defaulting to that nomenclature. I get the tax details and will realize the full value. Good point though, it isn't a rebate at all.
DurandalAI
Member
Something that some people can do if they want to maximize that credit if they cannot otherwise is to create some capital gains tax by temporarily selling some well-performing stocks and then buying back in the next day. That will reset the margin cost on the stocks, which is helpful in this situation.
Add me to the list of those that are forgoing AWD in order to get their 3 sooner. I had planned all along on getting AWD but I don't want to miss out on half of the tax credit (and yes, I can take the full $7,500). Plus my lease is up in March. I feel like I wasted my time driving all the way to Cleveland to stand in line (and picked up 3 others along the way). How many Johnny come lately's would get the full credit while I would miss out on half of it? Thanks for the appreciation Elon.
Anyway, so I'll be getting the first run build and hope to squeak in on a 2017 delivery. I live in Buffalo. Why would I need AWD anyway?
Anyway, so I'll be getting the first run build and hope to squeak in on a 2017 delivery. I live in Buffalo. Why would I need AWD anyway?
ConcordeSST
Member
I'm really struggling with this one as I really want AWD (yes I know RWD with winter tires is better than AWD with all seasons, but I'm assuming AWD with winter tires is even better ). The tax credit is making it really hard for me to predict what will happen with the resale value. If I do as others have suggested here (buy the RWD to get the tax credit and then trade up in a year to the dual motor), the trade-in value needs to be at least $41,500 before I start to lose money on the deal (I think, assuming I'd have no tax credit a year later. Yes I have enough of a tax burden to claim the full credit), and that's not even considering tax. I'm in Minnesota and show a Mar-May estimated delivery for the LR RWD model. I show Oct-Dec 18 for AWD. Yes, I know that I'd have that many more months of use out of the car as opposed to waiting. The math just too complicated for my feeble mind. Am I thinking about this wrong? I know it's impossible to say with accuracy, but what do people think the trade-in value will be after a year assuming I'm trading it in to Tesla?
). The tax credit is making it really hard for me to predict what will happen with the resale value. If I do as others have suggested here (buy the RWD to get the tax credit and then trade up in a year to the dual motor), the trade-in value needs to be at least $41,500 before I start to lose money on the deal (I think, assuming I'd have no tax credit a year later. Yes I have enough of a tax burden to claim the full credit), and that's not even considering tax. I'm in Minnesota and show a Mar-May estimated delivery for the LR RWD model. I show Oct-Dec 18 for AWD. Yes, I know that I'd have that many more months of use out of the car as opposed to waiting. The math just too complicated for my feeble mind. Am I thinking about this wrong? I know it's impossible to say with accuracy, but what do people think the trade-in value will be after a year assuming I'm trading it in to Tesla?
Dogwhistle
Member
Originally planned on the D as well, but not if it means an extra 9 months! Going with the first available config, will look at trading up in 3-5 years to the latest and greatest!
I guess we're among the few who are holding out for AWD. That's how much we hate being forced by the California authorities to install snow chains!
Plenty of retired people may find themselves in that situation. However, many of them could probably solve this by doing a Roth conversion, i.e., converting pre-tax retirement assets into Roth assets. (I'm not a tax accountant, so don't take my word for it!)
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