Hansshow Audio Upgrade? (SR+)

[Kali_3]

I found it much better with full bass boost, but it still won't exactly kick ... not sure that's even possible from a shallow 8" sub (I'm not a sub expert).

Not a sub expert also but the Hansshow 8" sub isn't a good quality and it needs an enclosure to make up for it. Also using A/B amp isn't efficient. The amp is outputting just a shy over 100 watts in real life. A good quality sub and enclosure, even a 300 watts will kick hard.

I was in 2012 Model S as a loaner the other day. The EQ was set in max and the bass is boomy similar to the Hansshow. I like a tight real production of bass. I still like my setup. I'm really happy with it. If I found someone with the Premium Audio.

 

[todd2fst4u]

From your experience, is there one you would recommend? The Hansshow rep has assured me that the issues with polarity and balance have been fixed, but was there any other problems you've encountered?

I don’t recommend using either. I recommend using an additional amplifier to power the extra speakers. I would only purchase their harnesses to harvest the connectors from.

 

[Kali_3]

From your experience, is there one you would recommend? The Hansshow rep has assured me that the issues with polarity and balance have been fixed, but was there any other problems you've encountered?

My kit was made late Nov and received it early December. It's not the DIY but ver. A. The door tweeters had reversed polarity and also the Passenger Rear shelf speaker. That's 3 speakers out of phase/reversed polarity. Their kit is inconsistent. Some received a perfect kit with no polarity or reverse issue.

 

[badiban]

That is how both of the “DIY” harnesses work, Teslaoffer or Hansshow doesn’t make a difference. Both company’s harnesses wire the extra speakers in parallel to the existing speakers. This lowers the impedance of the load, stressing the OEM amplifier.

Interesting. From the Hansshow website, they write:

4.For the DIY kit, with the addition of our crossover, the impedance of the audio system is the same as the original car, which is 4 ohms, no damage to the original AMP.

So either they are lying or are misinformed. Guess I’ll have to see how it sounds once I have it wired up.

 

[noelegacy]

Hi, to answer you questions. The door woofer was still working but underpowered. It was weak and could barely hear or feel it. Now, it's working as it should.


The passenger tweeter. I did it on the foot panel. It's the first picture (20201217_120241.jpg). It's the two wires. Basically just cut and swap the two wires. On the driver side. I swapped the wires on the tweeter wires instead. It's easier this way (20201217_121717.jpg). The picture were taken after I already swapped the wires. I cut and soldered and used Tesa tape. Here's how to remove the tweeter. It's very easy, just pull straight up.

I recommend getting a polarity tester. This is the one I got https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MQ55QHL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I don't know if the door tweeter in yours have reversed polarity or the A-pillar. The tool is very handy and cheap. It will save you time and headache figuring our which speaker(s) are out of phase.

Thank you very much Kali_3!! Purchased the polarity tester that you recommended, found that both driver and passenger door tweeters were reversed. After 2 months of driving with the Hanshow diy cable and being annoyed by not having any bass I'm good now. The bass has returned and the music sounds great. I was so excited to have decent sounding music again that i forgot to check the rear deck speakers.

 

[Kali_3]

Thank you very much Kali_3!! Purchased the polarity tester that you recommended, found that both driver and passenger door tweeters were reversed. After 2 months of driving with the Hanshow diy cable and being annoyed by not having any bass I'm good now. The bass has returned and the music sounds great. I was so excited to have decent sounding music again that i forgot to check the rear deck speakers.

Thanks for taking your time reporting back and I'm glad it fixes your issue. It sounds like you were really stoked getting the bass back hehe. I feel ya! Bass is life! It's the only frequency we feel. Without it, the sound is dead.

 

[Alien8er]

Two weeks now after installing version B. Still running into the issue of loud gps/chimes/overall volume.

It usually happens when i start the car from after sleep, but it'll go away after a few minutes of driving. Anyone else run into anything similar? It's extremely annoying

Yes. This is driving me crazy. Mine won't always go quiet after few minutes. I will reboot the car and this will fix it. I also notice that, if I go for a short drive, then go into a store and come back, the audio is fixed. This is one of my biggest complaints about the system.

 

[j5701]

Yes. This is driving me crazy. Mine won't always go quiet after few minutes. I will reboot the car and this will fix it. I also notice that, if I go for a short drive, then go into a store and come back, the audio is fixed. This is one of my biggest complaints about the system.

Is yours version B, and is this isolated to version B only?

 

[Alien8er]

Is yours version B, and is this isolated to version B only?

Version E. Hansshow sent me some recommendations this morning on how to enable the bass to the front door speakers that I am going to try. I don't know though if that's going to make a difference. Something in the start up of the system seems to be boosting the volume temporarily.

 

[geen]

Version E. Hansshow sent me some recommendations this morning on how to enable the bass to the front door speakers that I am going to try. I don't know though if that's going to make a difference. Something in the start up of the system seems to be boosting the volume temporarily.

Alien8er, let us know if there are any improvements on your door speakers/woofers after Hansshow's recommended changes.

Have you tried using their "Version E Driver Seat Special Editor Stereo Data for order before 20th Nov.xps" file that was posted 11 days ago on their Github?

I was speaking with another GVA Version E'er and they said that file drastically improved their door woofers. I have yet to try that file myself but intend to once I get access to my laptop.

 

[Alien8er]

Alien8er, let us know if there are any improvements on your door speakers/woofers after Hansshow's recommended changes.

Have you tried using their "Version E Driver Seat Special Editor Stereo Data for order before 20th Nov.xps" file that was posted 11 days ago on their Github?

View attachment 619963

I was speaking with another GVA Version E'er and they said that file drastically improved their door woofers. I have yet to try that file myself but intend to once I get access to my laptop.

lol no. I had not seen the Version E Driver Seat Special Editor Stereo Data for order before 20th Nov.xps version. I guess I am special I will give that a try as well. The only laptop that I have that I would allow their software to run on is super old and slow. It takes forever to boot up and load anything!

 

[geen]

lol no. I had not seen the Version E Driver Seat Special Editor Stereo Data for order before 20th Nov.xps version. I guess I am special I will give that a try as well. The only laptop that I have that I would allow their software to run on is super old and slow. It takes forever to boot up and load anything!

Lol, me included! To be honest, I stopped checking their Github for weeks now. Sadly I have accepted the fact that the system has limitations, and have adjusted my expectations accordingly.

Your laptop sounds similar to mine and keeps telling me not to run it. I tried disabling defender and running it anyways, only to run into a .dll error.

I will let you know the results if I get to the file before you do.

 

[black+white]

My Version F has shipped, and today I stumbled on this video:

Hansshow SR Audio Upgrade Version F installation tutorial

Of interest is not having to remove the entire rear shelf to mount the speakers; the grilles come out from the top. But now the speakers are not screwed down, rather stuck on with some thick black adhesive material?

I don't know anything about audio gear; what do you think about this video? What does it say to you about the new Version F, its install, and anything else about the gear? Any obvious differences from what other customers have received?

 

[Brendwal]

Very interesting on the Version F (mine shipped last week and supposed to be here tmrw). That rear deck installation is bizarre going from the top and “sticking” the speakers in like that with gum adhesive. I do like the sub compared to the other versions (shallow rectangular enclosures). Also the sub remote upfront is nice.
I have the DIY harness installed already, so am familiar with getting at all the wiring already. Obviously have to remove and replace that when Version F arrives. Should have it in within a few hours after Xmas and thoroughly test and check the surprises in store for me (polarity, reversed channels, etc). I wonder if I should YouTube it for others.

 

[GT!!]

Lol, me included! To be honest, I stopped checking their Github for weeks now. Sadly I have accepted the fact that the system has limitations, and have adjusted my expectations accordingly.

Your laptop sounds similar to mine and keeps telling me not to run it. I tried disabling defender and running it anyways, only to run into a .dll error.

I will let you know the results if I get to the file before you do.

You probably need to install the Microsoft C++ Redistributable to fix the DLL problem. I believe it is this Download Visual C++ Redistributable for Visual Studio 2015 from Official Microsoft Download Center This is a pretty common package that is required by many apps and not included with a basic Windows setup. There are newer versions of this package, but the DSP program requires the older one.

 

[chopdlck]

Yes. This is driving me crazy. Mine won't always go quiet after few minutes. I will reboot the car and this will fix it. I also notice that, if I go for a short drive, then go into a store and come back, the audio is fixed. This is one of my biggest complaints about the system.

Yup, exact same symptoms as well. I also noticed that the volume of the music no longer decreases for me as well when i open the drivers door when parked.. Hope they are able to offer a solution soon.

 

[lsubido]

Yup, exact same symptoms as well. I also noticed that the volume of the music no longer decreases for me as well when i open the drivers door when parked.. Hope they are able to offer a solution soon.

I have something similar on startup. Sometimes I do not hear the start chimes when I press the brake or the chimes are delayed. I had attributed them to software bugs. I've also had the chimes be loud and soft with no consistency. I'm not really sure it's an effect of the audio system.

Any possible correlation for HW 2.5 vs. 3.0?

 

[PuckHawg]

Very interesting on the Version F (mine shipped last week and supposed to be here tmrw). That rear deck installation is bizarre going from the top and “sticking” the speakers in like that with gum adhesive. I do like the sub compared to the other versions (shallow rectangular enclosures). Also the sub remote upfront is nice.
I have the DIY harness installed already, so am familiar with getting at all the wiring already. Obviously have to remove and replace that when Version F arrives. Should have it in within a few hours after Xmas and thoroughly test and check the surprises in store for me (polarity, reversed channels, etc). I wonder if I should YouTube it for others.

Brendwal - Please do! There are several of us on the island who have ordered Version F and would welcome any guidance on getting it installed smoothly.

 

[MexiCanuck]

Brendwal - Please do! There are several of us on the island who have ordered Version F and would welcome any guidance on getting it installed smoothly.

My Version F shipped this week. I’m planning to have it installed in January. It’s not work I want to take on myself.

 

[William_Chan]

I honestly thought about upgrading my gauge to power and ground as well but why bother when you know Hansshow is clearly lying about the output. This is true because the subwoofer amplifier only uses a 15amp fuse!!!

15 amp is Vehicle standard fuse.