Hansshow Audio Upgrade? (SR+)

[Swamprat96]

Hmm... Scary. If the impedance is not it, then that suggests maybe the speakers are out of phase. That can happen if the harness is wired wrong. And we already know from prior experience that Hansshow definitely sent out harnesses that were not wired properly. It seems like a pretty common problem, but I can't tell if everyone had it or not.

Trying to think of other reasons it might happen. One might be that the DSP settings on the F setup are wrong. Or that getting them tweaked to match the audio they want makes some speakers excessively loud. For example, the chime frequencies are boosted way up in order to make the music sound good.


Oh wait- you have @todd2fst4u amp setup, right? AFAIK Todd doesn't do the doubling up of speakers in parallel. That's the point of using the 4 channel Alpine amp, to get discrete channels for each of the new speakers and not break the impedance. He uses the TeslaOffer or Hansshow harnesses, but cuts them up to make his own harness.

I used his idea of the amp but not his harness as he didn't ship os. So I'm just using the alpine to drive the sub with my own wiring to break into the front woofers. Then a bog standard hansshow harness to activate the front speakers

 

[bo3bdar]

I used his idea of the amp but not his harness as he didn't ship os. So I'm just using the alpine to drive the sub with my own wiring to break into the front woofers. Then a bog standard hansshow harness to activate the front speakers

Ah, good to know. Your Hansshow harness has the funky breakout box with capacitors, right? I've not been able to find a pinout/schematic for that box, but there was discussion that its purpose is to do impedance matching. I can't quite explain that, because the 470mF capacitors don't really make sense for that purpose, but maybe. Could be resistors inline in the harness, lots of possibilities. (Just to clarify, the harness I bought from Topfit is the older version, and I buzzed out the wiring to confirm that it puts the front three speakers in parallel, and the back two speakers in parallel. No breakout box.)

Hansshow markets their harness as not changing the impedance, but I don't really trust them. Always possible their design engineer knows what they are doing, and the tech support people are clueless.

 

[Swamprat96]

Ah, good to know. Your Hansshow harness has the funky breakout box with capacitors, right? I've not been able to find a pinout/schematic for that box, but there was discussion that its purpose is to do impedance matching. I can't quite explain that, because the 470mF capacitors don't really make sense for that purpose, but maybe. Could be resistors inline in the harness, lots of possibilities. (Just to clarify, the harness I bought from Topfit is the older version, and I buzzed out the wiring to confirm that it puts the front three speakers in parallel, and the back two speakers in parallel. No breakout box.)

Hansshow markets their harness as not changing the impedance, but I don't really trust them. Always possible their design engineer knows what they are doing, and the tech support people are clueless.

Yep I have the breakout box. I would think the f kit does but maybe not seeing it has the sub and dsp

 

[Hi_Im_Mike]

I installed the version F kit on my 2019 a few weeks ago, and it has been great with the exception of the INFERNALLY LOUD CHIMES. Even with Joe mode on they're intolerably loud - which is a shame because the improvement that the kit made to the car's sound was dramatic.

A few comments/experiences with the kit:

• Despite having a RHD kit, the labels say "driver's side" "passenger side" - were in fact backwards. I don't know why they don't label this left/right side.
• I wasted a bunch of time attempting to install the two supplied rear speakers. After getting frustrated at trying to remove the parcel shelf to get at the rears, I looked at the harness more closely. On closer inspection - there were pins in the plug that had the wires leading to them snipped off. So I depinned the plug, restored the original connections and bam, functioning OEM rear speakers!
• After dropping the gain on the sub remote and upping the bass on the EQ, I'm pretty happy with the sound.
• The amp seems to take a little while to turn on.
• I hooked up power to the penthouse. I also have the Hansshow boot kit tapping power here too. No issues thus far. I have the frunk kit too, but that takes power from the battery.
• I said it before, but the chimes are terrible. I contacted Hansshow support mentioning the chimes and the nav voice being loud, and the only advice on offer was to lower the nav voice.
• I was going to set up inrush current limiting, but haven't had any warning issues as yet. The Reddit post was incredibly overdramatic.

With the exception of the chimes issue, I'm quite happy.

Same, I love this system, I have my sub turn to almost max and my speakers bass under mid for both and it’s nice and bumpy.
I have the same issue as you, the loud chimes and turn signal is really annoying. I wish there was a way to turn It down but I don’t even know where to start.

 

[sabretooth]

If Swamprat's experience is anything to go by, then perhaps I should use the DSP software to find and fiddle with the levels of each channel to figure out which channel(s) the chimes are being played on. Maybe I can bring that level down, and compensate using the EQ?

If there's an issue caused by impedance, I assume I'm going to have to find what channel has extra speakers on it wired in parallel.

 

[todd2fst4u]

Hmm... Scary. If the impedance is not it, then that suggests maybe the speakers are out of phase. That can happen if the harness is wired wrong. And we already know from prior experience that Hansshow definitely sent out harnesses that were not wired properly. It seems like a pretty common problem, but I can't tell if everyone had it or not.

Trying to think of other reasons it might happen. One might be that the DSP settings on the F setup are wrong. Or that getting them tweaked to match the audio they want makes some speakers excessively loud. For example, the chime frequencies are boosted way up in order to make the music sound good.


Oh wait- you have @todd2fst4u amp setup, right? AFAIK Todd doesn't do the doubling up of speakers in parallel. That's the point of using the 4 channel Alpine amp, to get discrete channels for each of the new speakers and not break the impedance. He uses the TeslaOffer or Hansshow harnesses, but cuts them up to make his own harness.

No, I run both front tweeters in parallel.

 

[bo3bdar]

No, I run both front tweeters in parallel.

Good to know. Any reports from people of overly loud chimes?

 

[todd2fst4u]

Good to know. Any reports from people of overly loud chimes?

No issues

 

[sabretooth]

So I've changed something I didn't expect to help - the master volume. The music is still full but the chimes are no longer blasting my ears so hard. Here's a screenshot from the Hansshow software after the change:

I changed the master vol down to -16.5db, adjusted the in-car EQ a little and increased the in-car volume - and it's miles better with the chimes. However I don't really know the ramifications of changing this vs the rest of the channels. But I'll get to keep my sanity with it as is.

I assume that this works because he chime volume doesn't scale up when you make in-car volume adjustments - but with a DSP, everything is amplified.


Can anyone else post their screenshots for comparison's sake?

 

[swan]

So I've changed something I didn't expect to help - the master volume. The music is still full but the chimes are no longer blasting my ears so hard. Here's a screenshot from the Hansshow software after the change:

View attachment 705347

I changed the master vol down to -16.5db, adjusted the in-car EQ a little and increased the in-car volume - and it's miles better with the chimes. However I don't really know the ramifications of changing this vs the rest of the channels. But I'll get to keep my sanity with it as is.

Can anyone else post their screenshots for comparison's sake?

Thanks for sharing that! I'm waiting for my install next week - how hard was it to connect this to your computer? I'll need to source a Windows PC machine to do this change though.

 

[sabretooth]

Pretty easy. The kit includes a USB cable to hook up to the DSP - it's just the standard A to B cable used by printers, scanners, etc.

The software is available here: GitHub - Hansshow/Model-3-Audio-Verision-E-DSP-software: Hansshow Model 3 SR Premium Audio Upgrade Version E DSP software (Only professional Audio user can use it, the speaker damaged by improper software use does not cover by our warranty)

Windows Defender doesn't like the executable though - I had to make an exception for it in order for it to run.

 

[21SR+]

I just had my f installed. Is the on board software the best its going to get? Or are tweaks needed for each level?

 

[badiban]

I just had my f installed. Is the on board software the best its going to get? Or are tweaks needed for each level?

I was pretty happy with how it came out of the box. I turned the gain up on the sub around 70%, that's about the only modification I made. If you're dissatisfied, I suggest messing around with the Tesla audio levels before adjusting the DSP settings.

 

[kiNGng3]

So I've changed something I didn't expect to help - the master volume. The music is still full but the chimes are no longer blasting my ears so hard. Here's a screenshot from the Hansshow software after the change:

View attachment 705347

I changed the master vol down to -16.5db, adjusted the in-car EQ a little and increased the in-car volume - and it's miles better with the chimes. However I don't really know the ramifications of changing this vs the rest of the channels. But I'll get to keep my sanity with it as is.

I assume that this works because he chime volume doesn't scale up when you make in-car volume adjustments - but with a DSP, everything is amplified.


Can anyone else post their screenshots for comparison's sake?

Haha, I did this like 30 pages prior!

 

[swan]

I was pretty happy with how it came out of the box. I turned the gain up on the sub around 70%, that's about the only modification I made. If you're dissatisfied, I suggest messing around with the Tesla audio levels before adjusting the DSP settings.

Did you not have the loud chimes that some other users have experienced?

 

[badiban]

Did you not have the loud chimes that some other users have experienced?

I did not (running on Joe Mode).

 

[21SR+]

what is the dive/shock switch for?

 

[Dubitz]

I'm sure this was asked at some point, but does anyone know if a Tesla Service Center could be paid to install any of this? Could I buy all the hardware and bring it to them to do? I'd rather pay someone who knows the cars in-and-out to do this and not risk messing something up doing it myself.

 

[Swamprat96]

I'm sure this was asked at some point, but does anyone know if a Tesla Service Center could be paid to install any of this? Could I buy all the hardware and bring it to them to do? I'd rather pay someone who knows the cars in-and-out to do this and not risk messing something up doing it myself.

Nope they won't do it. You'll need an audio installer.

 

[swan]

I had my installation done of the Version F kit in a 2021 M3 exactly 10 days ago. I used a professional shop to do the installation and it all went smoothly. They didn't do the rear deck speakers though even though I asked them to take out the deck and put the speakers in the grill. They didn't feel comfortable with that part of the installation (drilling a hole etc) and they also didn't want to just leave them sitting on top of the grill. They did say that the wires are they should I want to attempt this myself.

Installation was $400 CAD and took about 3 hours at the shop. DSP cable is in the front console should I need it and the sub remote is in the trunk velcro'd to the side.

The bass is the most dramatic improvement to the system. At some points, I actually find it over-powering but really, that's what this kit is about. I did manage to install the 2 speakers in the rear deck through another installer that's done a lot of these. To be honest, I don't really notice the sound from the rear deck speakers or even the 4 activated in the front but at least I know they're working.

Chimes / alerts don't appear to be any louder than usual (with joe mode off) so that's a plus.

I do notice a few seconds of delay before the audio is full. For example, I get into the car, it's on and I can hear sound from some speakers but it's really low and then I get full audio sound a few seconds later. Presumably, this is when the DSP finally gets power to it and turns everything else on. I'm not sure if this expected or if it will cause problems in the long run. Power is going through the penthouse as per the Hansshow instructions with no additional relays. I asked about it and they said if you have issues, come back and we'll figure something out. I assume they either want more service labour but I also got the impression that they would have preferred to come up with a custom solution rather than using this kit.

But so far, so good. I love the bass. My wife doesn't love it as much as I do. I wish the Tesla was able to save audio settings with driver profiles. Everytime I drive, I have to check the sound settings to increase the bass levels.