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Hansshow Audio Upgrade? (SR+)

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Well if something happens to the cars electrical system then they are liable since they have chosen to take on the job and install the system. The liability part I solely related to the vehicle and not the system. But when it comes to the system they told me that they will be the Hansshow liaison and take care of parts and whatnot.
That sounds reasonable.
 
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I'm curious how much actual noticeable difference there is in terms of audio quality and configurability between the DSP that ships with version B and the E/F DSP. I have the B DSP on the way, and I obviously plan to update the settings based on the github config they have provided.... But I'm curious if I'm really missing much between the two DSP options? I'm not an audiophile after all.
 
Their 1123.xps file shows that they tweaked delays for some channels so I guess it’s doable.

thats very interesting I'll have to do some reading into what that does, I mean i guess the name is self explanatory, but i am curious as to what they changed there.

update,
I see they added delays all over the place for the chanels and also the changed channels 7 and 8 they used to be linked to all 4 inputs, now they are only linked to the rear door inputs, going to give it a try just to see the change since my frined had actually recommended it after listening to my system, hopefully i see and improvement,
 
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Yes, I'm curious to hear exactly what he did too...

So what I did is just used the wires that they provided for their rear speakers and connected them to the ones that were cut (Hansshow suggests removing these from the harness back where they snipped the cable (where the connector was connected before they snipped it), but I felt it was easier to just connect their wire back to the plug (see pic). The ones for their speakers were both white/white with stripe so I followed them back in the cable until it became obvious which one connected to the white/white with stripe and gray/gray with stripe. Yes, it's possible I made a mistake, but I really don't think so. When I connected them as Hansshow suggested they rear speakers were reversed. So I was just giving a heads-up to validate this before you close everything up.
 

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So here's my road report for version B. Was in the car driving for 4 hours today, so had a good chance to listen to different types of music. Most of the time the volume was at lower volumes so that the people in the car could talk, but we did have it turned to mid volume for a few songs. I'm really happy with the sound ...most definitely an improvement and worth the money spent. Much fuller sound than before. I didn't find the system sounds (chimes, nav, warnings) too loud when the audio volume was at conversational levels, but it is noticeably louder at higher volumes. It doesn't really bother me and I haven't done anything to try to lower them. I still find the subwoofer to be a bit less powerful than what I was hoping for, but perhaps my expectations were too high. I also have not tried increasing any of the settings on it yet. I'm using the standard DSP settings provided by Hansshow in the github download.
 
Hey emcp422, that’s exactly what I meant actually lol, volume output per channel. Once the system is adjusted I feel it will have much better potential. I’m sure the stock premium system isn’t outputting maximum volume from every channel for audio experience purposes. I need to get hands on and really play with it! Hopefully I’ll get a call soon that my system was received *sigh*

so it look like the added a new 1123xps on github that has delays on some speakers plus a few input changes to channel 7 and 8 to create a surround experience based on the name of the update. from limited reading and asking it looks like what they did was delay the front left speaker so that the sound comes out exactly at the same time from both left and right spakers, also delayed rear right and rear left so that those come at the same time as well, will try it tomorrow that I am off, and see if i lke the results
 
I really want to try the new DSP files but my laptop is doing everything in it's power to not let me run the DSP software anymore. It's perma blocked and I will NOT install it on my other computer as it has work stuff on it and I don't want any alarms going off to corporate!

I wish Hansshow, or whoever makes the DSP software, certifies the application so it's not flagged. I'm stuck on an 11/21 version.
 
So here's my road report for version B. Was in the car driving for 4 hours today, so had a good chance to listen to different types of music. Most of the time the volume was at lower volumes so that the people in the car could talk, but we did have it turned to mid volume for a few songs. I'm really happy with the sound ...most definitely an improvement and worth the money spent. Much fuller sound than before. I didn't find the system sounds (chimes, nav, warnings) too loud when the audio volume was at conversational levels, but it is noticeably louder at higher volumes. It doesn't really bother me and I haven't done anything to try to lower them. I still find the subwoofer to be a bit less powerful than what I was hoping for, but perhaps my expectations were too high. I also have not tried increasing any of the settings on it yet. I'm using the standard DSP settings provided by Hansshow in the github download.

I installed my B today and the sub is underwhelming. I swapped rear speaker wires to white to grey and white/black to grey/black. That corrected the balance.

I reversed the sub wire too and it was better but nowhere close to my friend's version E that I installed last week (we swapped sub wires too)!

I've yet to program the DSP yet. Will do it tonight. The door opening decreases volume like OEM. Overall I want to reduce the front gains.
 
I really want to try the new DSP files but my laptop is doing everything in it's power to not let me run the DSP software anymore. It's perma blocked and I will NOT install it on my other computer as it has work stuff on it and I don't want any alarms going off to corporate!

I wish Hansshow, or whoever makes the DSP software, certifies the application so it's not flagged. I'm stuck on an 11/21 version.
Turn your anrivirus software or turn "App & Browser control" off in Windows Security settings
 
For those with Version B trying to connect factory rear speakers but having a hard time because the amount of wire left on the plug is too small to make a connection ... I just had a thought. You should be able to bypass the plug entirely if you just snip the corresponding wires on the factory plug that the Hansshow plug (the one with the 4 cut wires) goes into. Then connect the rear speaker leads from Hansshow to them. Yes, this is butchering your wiring on the factory plug, but let's remember that those were not being used before anyway (so if ever you want to remove this stuff the car still works same as before - no harm done). This will be way easier to do.
 
For those with Version B trying to connect factory rear speakers but having a hard time because the amount of wire left on the plug is too small to make a connection ... I just had a thought. You should be able to bypass the plug entirely if you just snip the corresponding wires on the factory plug that the Hansshow plug (the one with the 4 cut wires) goes into. Then connect the rear speaker leads from Hansshow to them. Yes, this is butchering your wiring on the factory plug, but let's remember that those were not being used before anyway (so if ever you want to remove this stuff the car still works same as before - no harm done). This will be way easier to do.

Whilst this is extremely logical and clearly much easier than what is recommended, I don't think I can bring myself to 'damage' my car like this!
 
I have my report of the Version E install.

Ordered 11/3/2020
Received 11/27/2020 to So. Cal

2019 SR+ with rear deck speakers installed already. I ran the external rear speaker wire harness to the back, just in case of future considerations.

Took 4.5 hours, a few scrapes and awkward positions. Bounced between small pictures on PDF instructions, Hansshow's video and Alien8er's video.

I wasn't sure about the driver side footwell trim. It looked a bit different from Hansshow's video (I think). I think it would have made it easier to take the driver side center console panel off. Instead, I pulled it off with the plastic pry bars and weaseled the panel out.

I need a metric deep socket set. 9/16" worked for the penthouse power in the rear seat.

I kept all the doors open during install. Using the power off function on the main screen seemed to kill the 12V eventually. I was able to connect the power harness without doing the frunk unplug. Sitting in the driver seat seemed to trigger the system to turn back on.

As an initial test after everything was hooked up, the factory configured DSP balance and fade were correct.
At Hansshow's guidance, upgraded the DSP with the github XPS files. I used the 1121 and 1123 XPS files, which inverted the balance and fade. I manually adjusted the input/output channels to match exactly (Ch1 to Ch1, Ch2 to Ch2, etc). Not sure if they made an update to the harness based on the feedback here.

Sounds great! Highly recommended. Looking forward to seeing some other adjustments on the DSP from the community.

Lastly, I have one extra retaining clip. Go figure, that's all my home projects.
 
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so it look like the added a new 1123xps on github that has delays on some speakers plus a few input changes to channel 7 and 8 to create a surround experience based on the name of the update. from limited reading and asking it looks like what they did was delay the front left speaker so that the sound comes out exactly at the same time from both left and right spakers, also delayed rear right and rear left so that those come at the same time as well, will try it tomorrow that I am off, and see if i lke the results
Always fun to experiment a bit but generally speaking the rule for delaying is to add the most delay to the speaker closest to you. So delaying front left makes sense. But you probably don't want to delay the speaker farthest away which is rear right. If you want to optimize sound for you as the driver, take measurements from your headrest to each speaker to give you an idea of the distance your ears are and delays should be set accordingly for each of the 4 corners. If you want to optimize sound equally for front (driver and single passenger) then simply delay the entire front end slightly. Keep in mind that if you were listening to a music performance in an enclosed venue you would hear a bit of sound bouncing off the back walls of the venue which would be delayed and this would sound as it is supposed to - in other words don't overuse the delay. We are talking about something moving at 1100 feet/second in a small space so time delay would have a very small effect which most people won't be able to discern and probably only notice if it was over-corrected. I'd say the only speaker that really could benefit from delay is the driver's top a-pillar speaker since it is so close to your ear.
 
I installed my B today and the sub is underwhelming. I swapped rear speaker wires to white to grey and white/black to grey/black. That corrected the balance.

I reversed the sub wire too and it was better but nowhere close to my friend's version E that I installed last week (we swapped sub wires too)!

Isn’t the subwoofer in Version B and Version E the same? How can it be that the one in Version E is that much better?