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Hansshow Audio Upgrade? (SR+)

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Thank you kiNGng3, I am definitely noticing almost no subwoofer sound and the rear shelf and rear door speakers are reversed. The rear door speakers started working once I switched to DC from ACC, thanks! So close to completion now and it's quite the difference already.
 
Flip to DC power instead of ACC power. Remember rear shelf is white to grey and white/black to grey/black.

Version E has door woofer issues not version B. Version B has weak subwoofer performance compared to version E.
My version sound correctelly but.. I thisk I receive a wrong wires, My TM3SR+ is build before Feb 2020 and I have the rear speaker but the darness received is cut and now when I listen the music some times the sounds are incoparable and 2 miutes later with the same sound the noises reduce like I don't have speaker connected Fee Weird effect And I have only install last weekend
 
My version sound correctelly but.. I thisk I receive a wrong wires, My TM3SR+ is build before Feb 2020 and I have the rear speaker but the darness received is cut and now when I listen the music some times the sounds are incoparable and 2 miutes later with the same sound the noises reduce like I don't have speaker connected Fee Weird effect And I have only install last weekend
It's the same for all of us who are not installing the Hansshow rear speakers as they have cut the harness to provide wire for their speakers instead. See previous posts about how to reconnect them. It's definitely worth doing as I find those rear speakers contribute a lot.
 
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It's the same for all of us who are not installing the Hansshow rear speakers as they have cut the harness to provide wire for their speakers instead. See previous posts about how to reconnect them. It's definitely worth doing as I find those rear speakers contribute a lot.
I tried to speak with my vendor at HansShow to fix that problems and it shows she's not understand I means
 
It's the same for all of us who are not installing the Hansshow rear speakers as they have cut the harness to provide wire for their speakers instead. See previous posts about how to reconnect them. It's definitely worth doing as I find those rear speakers contribute a lot.
You don't even need to cut the wires, you can pull them out of the connectors. Some require you to push down on an internal pin, like the grey and white one's you cut. There's a video somewhere in this thread if needed. https://teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/attachments/20201202_090921-jpg.613518/
 
Anyone with information about the system offered by Light Harmonic? I didn't see any back door speakers in the kit.

I believe from looking at things that the front dash speakers, rear deck speakers and rear door speakers are all basically the same exact speakers in the car. Personally I'm going to change out my front woofers to Focal ISU-200, and then also consider doing all the other mids with Infinity reference or something similar.
 
Just sharing my experience. I’ve got a 3/2020 build with rear deck speakers. Ordered version A without replacement rear speakers on 11/6 and received it on 12/4 with the newer 8” round sub. Never got a shipping notice that I saw. I got version A as I wanted all speakers active + a sub, but didn’t want to get into DSPs. DSPs made me a little nervous, and seemed like a lot of complexity without much payoff, but that’s obviously personal preference.


My rear speaker harness was not cut. I specified no replacement rears when I ordered, so maybe that is why they didn’t cut my wiring? Anyway, install took 3ish hours and was a breeze. No hiccups thanks to the video recorded by Turbojim (page 34 of this thread). Thanks Turbojim! Balance and fade work perfectly with my harness.


I’m very happy with the sound. Just turning on all the speakers made a nice difference for me with no volume degradation that I could perceive. Adding in the sub fills everything out nicely although it is not exactly a thumper. I like a bass heavy eq, and started with the two furthest left bands on the factory eq at 6 with the sub all the way up. The sub was pretty muddy with that setup, so I moved the two furthest left eq sliders to 8 (transferring a little more of the bass duties to the factory speakers) and then put the sub at 75% volume or so. Backing off a little on sub volume made a big difference in sound quality. I’m really happy with the setup. Not perfect, but for $315 as part of the group buy, I feel like it is a great value and all I’ll ever want.
 
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My rear speaker harness was not cut. I specified no replacement rears when I ordered, so maybe that is why they didn’t cut my wiring?

No, that's not the reason. HS has no rhyme or reason to why they do things!

I originally ordered the version A as well but I thought the mids would get muddied up since it's mashing the dash and rear doors speakers together. I'm glad it worked out for you. You're right though, the value proposition on these kits can't be beat!
 
Just sharing my experience. I’ve got a 3/2020 build with rear deck speakers. Ordered version A without replacement rear speakers on 11/6 and received it on 12/4 with the newer 8” round sub. Never got a shipping notice that I saw. I got version A as I wanted all speakers active + a sub, but didn’t want to get into DSPs. DSPs made me a little nervous, and seemed like a lot of complexity without much payoff, but that’s obviously personal preference.


My rear speaker harness was not cut. I specified no replacement rears when I ordered, so maybe that is why they didn’t cut my wiring? Anyway, install took 3ish hours and was a breeze. No hiccups thanks to the video recorded by Turbojim (page 34 of this thread). Thanks Turbojim! Balance and fade work perfectly with my harness.


I’m very happy with the sound. Just turning on all the speakers made a nice difference for me with no volume degradation that I could perceive. Adding in the sub fills everything out nicely although it is not exactly a thumper. I like a bass heavy eq, and started with the two furthest left bands on the factory eq at 6 with the sub all the way up. The sub was pretty muddy with that setup, so I moved the two furthest left eq sliders to 8 (transferring a little more of the bass duties to the factory speakers) and then put the sub at 75% volume or so. Backing off a little on sub volume made a big difference in sound quality. I’m really happy with the setup. Not perfect, but for $315 as part of the group buy, I feel like it is a great value and all I’ll ever want.


Thanks for the update. I also ordered Ver. A on 11/02 and received it yesterday 12/04. I got a tracking when I contacted Cici but never received an email. I'm glad you are happy with the A-kit. I had DSP+Amp on my previous car which is an upgrade from regular amp. DSP is nice if you're into tweaking. It took me countless of hours tweaking mine to get the proper sound alignment and tonality. I'm actually impressed with the sound stage in our car that's why I went with No DSP. I just want to activate all speakers for even better sound stage and a little bass bump. I like to tweak mine well balanced. Bass, Mids, Highs about the same volume, maybe just a tid bid of bass (probably 10% higher than the rest of FQ).

I will be installing mine in a few days. I will come back and update and give my initial input.
 
Version E owner here looking for some other version E buyers. I spent a bunch of time in my car yesterday adjusting the gain ,LPF and bass boost as well as the EQ and DSP settings. I've loaded the latest version of DSP in by Hansshow and I am getting an overall good sound out of the stereo with a lot of bass coming from the sub. I was told early on to reverse one of my sub in wires to get more powerful bass, which this did do. What I noticed over the past few weeks and confirmed yesterday listening more closely, is that my front door speakers are barely active. I can feel vibration coming through them when I put my hand up to them, but I think that's coming from the rear sub. When I put my ear against the grill it's very faint. If I fade Left, right or back and front I never get the sound over to those speakers.

Hansshow tells me that they don't touch those speakers and they are powered by the Tesla amp. Not sure about if they tapped the front door speakers and I reversed the wiring in my sub if it reverses the polarity in the front speakers? If I could get all speakers running at regular volume this would be a totally killer system!

FYI - others were asking about running an RCA cable for the sub in. I tried unplugging the harness into the amp yesterday and plugged an RCA cable from the amp to the DSP. I wasn't able to get the sub working with the RCA cables. Maybe it was something in the DSP that had to be set?
 
Hansshow tells me that they don't touch those speakers and they are powered by the Tesla amp.

That's not true because that would mean they work when the DSP is powered off. But they're not.

I've ordered the very first professional kit (which became "kit E"), which was with a different Sub and DSP, and before my DSP died on me I had the same sound as you, with little to no bass coming from the front speaker, making it sound duller than the stock system.

The only thing they didn't change in between seems to be the harness, maybe the problem lies there.
 
That's not true because that would mean they work when the DSP is powered off. But they're not.

I've ordered the very first professional kit (which became "kit E"), which was with a different Sub and DSP, and before my DSP died on me I had the same sound as you, with little to no bass coming from the front speaker, making it sound duller than the stock system.

The only thing they didn't change in between seems to be the harness, maybe the problem lies there.
Wire Harness problem has already been solved since 22nd Nov. For the orders shipped after 22nd Nov. No need to change any cable now.
 
Wow. I hope Hansshow realizes how many unwitting Beta testers they have here! Really feels like "Agile Design" run amok.
Question is do they even care? I think there are some buyers who are good at DIY projects and have read through these comments and are okay with tinkering. However, I think the majority of buyers for this kit are unwitting beta testers and will likely be frustrated. At least TMC has an enthusiastic community providing peer support to fix these issues with various work-around solutions which is helpful. It's unfortunate that the manufacturer takes an unapologetic approach and seems to marginalize the issues. It's a matter of time before other audio solutions come out and hopefully these will be less problematic.

Given the limited options on the market right now my recommendation to my SR+ friends is to get the TeslaOffer harness and get the subwoofer kit from NVX Audio. Total for both is about $800 MSRP.