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Hansshow premium audio upgrade for 2023 M3SR

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Is there a diy kit that provides subwoofer outputs for a 2023? The hansshow one doesn't and I think I want to add a sub this time.

I could have sworn I sawo One but I can't find it again. I just want to enable the unused front speakers and add a small sub.

Thanks!
The version A might be what ur looking for. I would say that you should chat with hansshow before you buy it to make sure it’s compatible and everything


 
Found it! It was at evoffer:


Anyone tried this one? I don't see the high pass filter in there.
 
Just installed the 2022 DIY kit today . Built in filters into the cable. RHD , Computer in passenger (left side ) , and other cables connect into the right hand side connectors.

1.) Removing the passenger footwell panel takes ages ! so take care when doing that . Remove the 2nd connector from the computer , very easy without using any tools, then just push in the new connector.

PXL_20230305_105427860.jpg


2.) run the cables through the center to the right hand side , lots of room to do this. ( i already have my dashcam wiring here)

PXL_20230305_110908134.jpg



3.)Pull the right hand trim off , and connect the cable as shown ( its the bottom blue connector, which then becomes white )
PXL_20230305_112145323.jpg


4.) Push the filter into the trim piece so its hidden and the trim still fits ( you can see it below the green tape )

PXL_20230305_112235120.jpg


5.) After thats all tided up, the last connector connects to the right of the pedals , I didnt take a pic of this connector fitted ( but you can see it in the pic below on the carpet )

PXL_20230305_112237225.jpg
 
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I installed the Hansshow DIY for AMD Ryzen Version Left Hand Drive. My car is a mid 2022 M3 RWD Fremont build. Apparently the computer is always on the passenger side regardless if the car is RHD or LHD. But the connection near the B pillar is always on the right side of the car. On LHD cars the connector on the side of the computer is on the right side and a pain in the butt to get that connection made. That was the hardest part for me. Also since I'm pushing 60, contorting myself in the footwell and resting my left ribcage on the door sill left me with some bruises. If I were to do it again I'd lay a towel over the door sill. I took a video of the sound before and after. And listening to the car after, it does make a difference. Not a huge difference but it sounds better. It was worth the cost and expense.

I did power down the touch screen and disconnected the 12V battery. I also (thought) I disconnected the main battery under the rear seat by flipping that handle on the connector but not removing the connector. Halfway through when I mated the connection at the B pillar the car powered up and the A/C came on. So that did not actually disconnect the battery (you need to remove the under seat connector, not just disengage the latch). But apparently I didn't have it disconnected and the install went fine. However after I reconnected the 12V battery and the panel re-started, the car didn't know where it was and it forgot my Premium Connectivity. I took it outside the garage and had to re-boot the panel by holding down both scroll wheels to get the premium connectivity back.

Here are some pictures...

- Four trim pins to remove to take the far side of the panel (the darker on the two) under the passenger side down...

IMG_7079.JPG


Only two connections to remove on this car. Set this panel aside.

IMG_7080.JPG


Removed the trim on the side of the dashboard and A pillar to get to that trim pin holding the sill trim in place. These just pull off. The dash trim is stubborn and I'm not sure it had to come off.

IMG_7082.JPG


Remove that trim pin and pull the sill trim off. It comes off pretty easily. Also remove the rubber weather seal. It just pulls off the metal seam. Next remove the black connector on the side of the computer. On LHD cars that right side of the computer is hard to get to. It is against the right side of the car. I removed the bottom white connector to get better access. You don't need to remove this white connector, just the black one. There is a tab to depress to get it out.

IMG_7086.JPG


The new harness connects to the black connector and then the new white connector goes into the computer in the slot vacated by the black connector. There is very tight access and I had trouble getting my fingers back in there. And I have medium size hands. If you have large hands good luck. I replaced the white connector after I got the black one inserted.

IMG_7088.JPG

IMG_7092.JPG


Next there is another connection nearby. That connector has a pull down latch. The latch is held in place by a small plastic tab that you can undo with a screw driver. Then the latch pulls down. The new harness connects between the existing cable and socket.

IMG_7093.JPG


Lastly on to the B-pillar connection. There is a lot of extra cable here if you have a LHD car. The connector you want is the blue one. It is under a white connector. Undo the white connector (there is a tab to depress) and undo the blue (another tab).

IMG_7098.JPG


Insert the new harness in the blue connector, insert the blue connector into the new harness. Replace the white connectors.

IMG_7100 (Edited).JPG


Can't attach any more pictures. I'll post a few more in the next posting.
 

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Trying to get this all stuffed back into this area is a pain. I pushed the connector down along the sill towards the passenger seat and I stuff the filter and some of the cable behind the B pillar trim. I ran the cable back towards the front of the car between the plastic spacer and under the rubber weather seal.

IMG_7104 (Edited).JPG


I gathered the remaining loose harness and zip tied it behind the side trim. The other connector is a bit hard to stuff back in there. The large red wire looks to be high voltage from the main battery. I tried to stay away from disturbing that wire.

IMG_7108.JPG


Once I made all the connections I reconnected the 12V battery and checked the speakers. Everything worked as expected. Then just replace all the trim pieces. Like I said earlier the car booted up but the GPS location was gone and so was my Premium Connectivity. Once I was driving the car it figured out where it was, but to regain the Premium Connectivity I had to reboot the control panel using the two-scroll wheel method. It may have recovered on its own, but I just forced it to happen.

The bongs and car chimes are the same as before. I have Joe Mode enabled. The four speakers are now activated. It does make an improvement in the fullness of the sound, but it is a marginal improvement. Noticeable, but marginal. More so on music. I listen to pod casts and less noticeable on that type of content.

Hope this was helpful.

Now I wonder if I should replace the speakers with better ones???? Naw!
 
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Trying to get this all stuffed back into this area is a pain. I pushed the connector down along the sill towards the passenger seat and I stuff the filter and some of the cable behind the B pillar trim. I ran the cable back towards the front of the car between the plastic spacer and under the rubber weather seal.



I gathered the remaining loose harness and zip tied it behind the side trim. The other connector is a bit hard to stuff back in there. The large red wire looks to be high voltage from the main battery. I tried to stay away from disturbing that wire.



Once I made all the connections I reconnected the 12V battery and checked the speakers. Everything worked as expected. Then just replace all the trim pieces. Like I said earlier the car booted up but the GPS location was gone and so was my Premium Connectivity. Once I was driving the car it figured out where it was, but to regain the Premium Connectivity I had to reboot the control panel using the two-scroll wheel method. It may have recovered on its own, but I just forced it to happen.

The bongs and car chimes are the same as before. I have Joe Mode enabled. The four speakers are now activated. It does make an improvement in the fullness of the sound, but it is a marginal improvement. Noticeable, but marginal. More so on music. I listen to pod casts and less noticeable on that type of content.

Hope this was helpful.

Now I wonder if I should replace the speakers with better ones???? Naw!

Ill be honest all i did was power down the screen, didnt even dissconnect the battery . All i made sure was i wound down the windows when shutting the door . Then reopen the door and then move the windows backup.

Funnily enough, i found the Computer connector the easiest, but i do have pretty skinny hands.
 
Glad to see others doing write ups for this ! The more info/pictures, the easier it will be for others looking to do it.

The triangular shaped panel that sits to the right of the glove box would not come off and I was afraid of breaking it, so I left it on, and therefore the side trim I couldn’t take off. That being said I agree with @Rocket_man that the improvement is subtle (also that stuffing the extra cabling is a real PITA!) and just like @mrluke i didn’t disconnect the 12V/HV batteries but advocate others to disconnect just for safety …
 
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Ill be honest all i did was power down the screen, didnt even dissconnect the battery . All i made sure was i wound down the windows when shutting the door . Then reopen the door and then move the windows backup.

Funnily enough, i found the Computer connector the easiest,
but i do have pretty skinny hands.

I opened all the doors and the Frunk before I shut the touchscreen down and disconnected the 12V battery. It is possible according to the directions that you could lose the window position calibration and the windows may not know where 'up' is. There is a window calibration screen in the Service part of the menu. But my car didn't have any problems with the windows.

On LHD cars the computer is close to the right side of the car and the connectors are on the right side of the computer. So there is little space between this side of the computer and the inside of the right quarter panel. There are other harnesses in there making it a tight fit to get your fingers in to the right side of the computer to bend the harness so it will go into the female connector. I think on RHD cars that right side of the computer is facing the center of the car and there is more room to get to the female connectors. It may help when you remove that carpet trim on the center console.

Glad to see others doing write ups for this ! The more info/pictures, the easier it will be for others looking to do it.

The triangular shaped panel that sits to the right of the glove box would not come off and I was afraid of breaking it, so I left it on, and therefore the side trim I couldn’t take off. That being said I agree with @Rocket_man that the improvement is subtle (also that stuffing the extra cabling is a real PITA!) and just like @mrluke i didn’t disconnect the 12V/HV batteries but advocate others to disconnect just for safety …
That triangular trim piece just has 'stiff' trim clips. It does feel like you might break them but you just need to pull harder than you might think to get it off. It will pop loose, no damage done. However, you may not need to get this out to remove the sill trim. If I did this again I'd probably try to leave that triangular piece in place.

I was hoping Tesla would enable these speakers in a software update or let owners 'buy' these extra speakers for ~$100 or so, I would have purchased it. If they ever do offer such an option I may take the Hansshow harness out and 'buy' it from Tesla so I don't have this extra harness in my car. It barely fits and introduces extra connections where something could go wrong. Probably pretty low risk but not a factory harness. I think the Hansshow harness looks well made though. The connectors mated well with the factory connectors and clicked nicely in place.
 
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Just curious for those who have this on a 2022 M3...I previously had one of these kits purchased in 2021 and I tried it in my sisters October 2021 delivered 2022 M3 RWD with LFP. In hers, the kit activated the speakers on the driver's side, but not on the passenger's side. Was there a design change on recent versions of this kit that work properly with the 2022? For those that have newer kits, do you get all 4 speakers it is supposed to activate?
 
Just curious for those who have this on a 2022 M3...I previously had one of these kits purchased in 2021 and I tried it in my sisters October 2021 delivered 2022 M3 RWD with LFP. In hers, the kit activated the speakers on the driver's side, but not on the passenger's side. Was there a design change on recent versions of this kit that work properly with the 2022? For those that have newer kits, do you get all 4 speakers it is supposed to activate?
It should activate both sides. While I am not familiar with the older versions, the issue you are describing makes me think there may be a connection issue (perhaps need to just unplug and replug everything?)
Does anyone know which wires they are tapping? Anyone have a detailed picture of the wires and which wires they tapped?
Hansshow has some pictures on their installation page here: Model 3 2022 AMD DIY (No Controller) Installation Manual.pdf
 
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Just curious for those who have this on a 2022 M3...I previously had one of these kits purchased in 2021 and I tried it in my sisters October 2021 delivered 2022 M3 RWD with LFP. In hers, the kit activated the speakers on the driver's side, but not on the passenger's side. Was there a design change on recent versions of this kit that work properly with the 2022? For those that have newer kits, do you get all 4 speakers it is supposed to activate?
Were both cars with the AMD Ryzen chip? There is a difference somewhere in the harness if you have the newer AMD chip or the older ship.
 
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It should activate both sides. While I am not familiar with the older versions, the issue you are describing makes me think there may be a connection issue (perhaps need to just unplug and replug everything?)

Hansshow has some pictures on their installation page here: Model 3 2022 AMD DIY (No Controller) Installation Manual.pdf

Were both cars with the AMD Ryzen chip? There is a difference somewhere in the harness if you have the newer AMD chip or the older ship.
Thank you both 🙏. It’s not the connections, they are secure and I’ve checked multiple times. My sisters car is the Intel 2022 version. That install manual without the module box is newer than the one that was around with the other kit. I may have to purchase an updated kit without the module box and trying that. Appreciate the info.
 
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Does anyone know which wires they are tapping? Anyone have a detailed picture of the wires and which wires they tapped?
See this posting and watch the video

 
See this posting and watch the video

Would like something more detailed. Is there a Tesla service page that shows what pins are in each harness? I would like to know that for all three plugs for the newer version.
 
Ev offer has one with the sub out but no high pass filter. I came across a post I made years ago while experimenting with the original diy cable that has the pinout so I'm going to use that plus the YouTube video to find the right door woofer pair. I'll post the results when I have them but it will be a while.
 
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