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HANSSHOW Trunk Liftgate v3 install

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Does the v6 power strut still rub against the weather stripping when it's closing? Hansshow's rep is telling me the strut is thinner compare to the older version. I'm wondering if it resolves the issue with the older version is tearing the weather strip with trunk closing motion. Thanks

The V6 strut is indeed thinner. It does contact marginally. I also apply a product on my rubber seals that reduce the friction and also keeps them hydrated:

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B004B8GTQG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 
would it do this if you are linked to the CanBUS? I have a V4 and looking at getting this installed in the coming month

pretty sure mine is connected via Canbus. I had it installed by RPM Tesla, and at that time the "v5" was insatlled, (which is the same as v4 but with different wiring) and it still shows the rotating opened and closed when the trunk is open. Its not a huge deal since it gives you enough time to close it before switching
 
Just reading about the V6 trunk (boot in the UK!). I have installed and can add a video from Hannshow to adjust close force. However the forum blocks MP4 video? If you PM me I can send via WhatsApp. I've just adjusted it and it works fine. Otherwise the V6 works fine, rams don't push too hard on the seals and the open position and speed set are as the previous video shared.
 
I’m installing the V6 trunk opener in my 2020 Model 3. I have the can-bud connected unser the center console, but not sure where to run the 12v connection. Any suggestions?

Ideally a constant 12v. There are 2 located at the front of the car just inside the wings and concealed by the trims. It’s a bit fiddly to get to but are probably one of the best locations. Pics attached are from the Tesla Offer manual but I imagine they are largely similar.
 

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  • Disagree
Reactions: jyavenard
Installed the Trunk kit last night...I ended up routing through the lights, couldn't figure out how to fish the wires through without removing the bumper cover. I'll prb add a dab of sealant around the wire. Worst part was removing the rear seat trim and back cover, especially with a white interior. I understand why the new kit was designed this way, but it was daunting starting out.
On the passenger side in the side panel, there is a 12VDC connector. It's what I used and easier than punching a hole to the main frunk compartment to get to the battery. Lookup Hannshow's video on enabling the front speakers in the Model 3. It shows (still not great) this 12V connection. It looks daunting from the video but it really is not.

BTW, when I first installed the power trunk, I connected 12V to the main battery pack feed under the rear seats. Don't do that as you are close to the high voltage stuff and if Tesla finds out during a service call, it won't go well.
 
  • Disagree
Reactions: jyavenard
On the passenger side in the side panel, there is a 12VDC connector. It's what I used and easier than punching a hole to the main frunk compartment to get to the battery. Lookup Hannshow's video on enabling the front speakers in the Model 3. It shows (still not great) this 12V connection. It looks daunting from the video but it really is not.

BTW, when I first installed the power trunk, I connected 12V to the main battery pack feed under the rear seats. Don't do that as you are close to the high voltage stuff and if Tesla finds out during a service call, it won't go well.
@Hesham,

Why? I’ve had my HansShow Trunk connected like this for 2 years and have never had an issue with them. Also have had the HansShow Auto Frunk as well connected to 12v battery up front. Have they given you an issue/hard time with this?

Ski
 
@Hesham,

Why? I’ve had my HansShow Trunk connected like this for 2 years and have never had an issue with them. Also have had the HansShow Auto Frunk as well connected to 12v battery up front. Have they given you an issue/hard time with this?

Ski
I talked to some friendly Tesla scouts about the installation. I'm very neat with my cabling (I'm an engineer!) but the two scouts I talked to said that an unfriendly Tesla service manager may balk at an issue with the battery pack. I didn't want to risk a warranty issue with the single most expensive part of the car. I agree it is easy to hook up under the rear seat but once you know the location of the front hookup, it's a a no-brainer to use it. As soon as I saw the front hook-up when I installed the missing speaker cables at the front of my SR+, I switched the DC feed of the power frunk. Hannshow could do a better job of explaining it along with pruning some of their older videos.
 
  • Disagree
Reactions: jyavenard
I’m installing the V6 trunk opener in my 2020 Model 3. I have the can-bud connected unser the center console, but not sure where to run the 12v connection. Any suggestions?
There’s constant 12V just underneath the rear seat, on the right side. Dead simple to access, no mess.

I have no idea why some here would suggest having to go all the way to the front, absolutely insane.

That Tesla would raise a fuss about being near the HV battery is pure FUD.

I just had my car serviced due to a faulty safety belt clip, the one right over that 12V connector. Tesla couldn't care less.
 
  • Like
Reactions: MikkoJ and Skione65
I have been reading mix messages from different threads. Is the 12V underneath the rearseat constant or switched? As mentioned earlier that teslaoffer recommends the 12V source from the front pillars, rearseat is so much easier so why?

If it is switched like I have read in some threads, for those of you who have tapped your 12V from under the rearseat...
1) does your trunk work when your car is in sleep mode? or do u need to wake it up first then open the trunk?
2) How about foot sensor in sleep mode? need to wake up car first?
 
I have been reading mix messages from different threads. Is the 12V underneath the rearseat constant or switched? As mentioned earlier that teslaoffer recommends the 12V source from the front pillars, rearseat is so much easier so why?

If it is switched like I have read in some threads, for those of you who have tapped your 12V from under the rearseat...
1) does your trunk work when your car is in sleep mode? or do u need to wake it up first then open the trunk?
2) How about foot sensor in sleep mode? need to wake up car first?
I used the 12V under the seat and can confirm the boot opens from sleep mode. Actually the foot sensor can be a bit lazy at times and perhaps that is when the car is sleeping but frankly, I don’t see why that would be as there is only one 12V supply lead to the unit.
 
Has anyone got a close up shot of their soft close latch? I’ve got a TO kit that I installed, but as far as I know this part of the kit is identical to the Hansshow one (even down to the motor).

I’m having problems with latching on the softest setting, and I’m sure it’s because there’s an extra 5mm or so of travel in the soft close latch.

It latches without the lower trim fitted, but as soon as I fit that it can’t latch unless I increase the closing force setting, which basically makes it not soft close at the start.

Here is mine, with the red circle indicating the extra travel:

EC567F7A-D5E8-42C7-B5AC-1BAB7AFE8BB8.jpeg


Thanks in advance.
 
  • Informative
Reactions: doats1
Has anyone got a close up shot of their soft close latch? I’ve got a TO kit that I installed, but as far as I know this part of the kit is identical to the Hansshow one (even down to the motor).

I’m having problems with latching on the softest setting, and I’m sure it’s because there’s an extra 5mm or so of travel in the soft close latch.

It latches without the lower trim fitted, but as soon as I fit that it can’t latch unless I increase the closing force setting, which basically makes it not soft close at the start.

Here is mine, with the red circle indicating the extra travel:

View attachment 673102

Thanks in advance.
I cut my trunk plastic up a little bit. I have a Tesla Offer Mark 2.5 kit. I found it to latch very tight. I'll take a picture tomorrow.
 
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Reactions: Durzel
I actually fixed this in the end, sorry for not updating the thread. The upper and lower latch needs to be perfectly aligned so the upper latch does not contact the lower one at all - except the actual bit that latches. Mine was maybe 2mm (if that) off to the left.

I had to climb inside the car, lying on the rear seats looking out of the rear of the car, and pull down the trunk (disconnecting the power, otherwise it will close it automatically).

The below photo was from before I made the adjustment. As you can see the lower latch is very slightly too far left, and it was making contact on that sliver of exposed metal on the left hand side. That was enough to create enough resistance when the trunk lid came down to stop it latching.

IMG_4777.jpeg