kavyboy
Active Member
Interesting. I would love to know more about that.One thing I saw is that the limiting of supercharging speed on my 90 pack was initiated by a person logging in on the car.
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Interesting. I would love to know more about that.One thing I saw is that the limiting of supercharging speed on my 90 pack was initiated by a person logging in on the car.
Also interested in details. Are you just speculating that your reduced supercharging speed was connected to the remote login? Did it happen without accepting a software update? Is the remote address logged? How did you reach the conclusion that a person manually initiated something?One thing I saw is that the limiting of supercharging speed on my 90 pack was initiated by a person logging in on the car.
All this is pure speculation and in line with Tesla’s very poor customer communications.
I will put a snippet of the log in here tomorrow. It says something like “changed fastcharging from 1 to 2 by loggedon user wzhang on... “ etc.
I just suffered from the service center doing a factory reset of my MCU to rectify my report of frequent crashes that I believe are do to a hardware problem (eMMC?). I lost not only all of my settings (no, they did not restore these), but also my trip odometers, which held my running total energy and average Wh/mi for the life of my vehicle (which greatly disappointed me). Nevertheless, I did not lose my Slacker account, contrary to the claim you heard. It is true that when I first tried to pull up the "Streaming" section, it came up with a login screen, which I, at first, thought confirmed your report (but I believe was just due to a connection problem). However, after a bit of going back and forth, it logged in fine and I confirmed that "likes" I had previously set on songs were still present.He said that doing a reset to Factory will cause the account number to autogenerate a NEW account number, so you would lose all your saved songs.
I know this thread is old but I also am in the camp that the “hold the brake reset” does nothing different.
I think the only meaningful reset is switching your wheel configuration. But I’m not even 100% sure on that either.
EDIT: I just tried that wheel configuration change and it doesn’t seem to reboot it fully. It just resets for like 10 seconds where as the steering wheel reset takes about a minute.
10 seconds doesn't sound right. Nor does your 'analysis' in general based on time. Using ScanMyTesla, you can see that various subsystems are (still) running and producing data even while rebooting or when in a 'Power Off' option state. Many people have had GPS stuck issues or some other odd problem that two-finger or Power-Off have not resolved (GPS related subsystem stayed up) ... but it was resolved when doing wheel config.I know this thread is old but I also am in the camp that the “hold the brake reset” does nothing different.
I think the only meaningful reset is switching your wheel configuration. But I’m not even 100% sure on that either.
EDIT: I just tried that wheel configuration change and it doesn’t seem to reboot it fully. It just resets for like 10 seconds where as the steering wheel reset takes about a minute.
When I changed the wheel configuration, the reboot took a way shorter amount of time. I didn’t time it but it was probably 20 seconds realistically. I did time the normal steering wheel reset and that was 1:04.10 seconds doesn't sound right. Nor does your 'analysis' in general based on time. Using ScanMyTesla, you can see that various subsystems are (still) running and producing data even while rebooting or when in a 'Power Off' option state. Many people have had GPS stuck issues or some other odd problem that two-finger or Power-Off have not resolved (GPS related subsystem stayed up) ... but it was resolved when doing wheel config.
Sorry. I thought that would have been clear.Since this is a contentious issue, perhaps you would like to be CLEAR about what you just said.
What are the Wheel Config, Power-Off and Two-Finger that you refer to
There are people who have had stuck GPS location issues that tried all the other normal reboot options which didn't help. A wheel configuration change and change back did ... the obvious theory is that it reset/triggered something else that was related to the part of the GPS system. I had GPS locations issues prior to that (option becoming available) and ended up unhooking the 12v for 5 minutes which fixed my GPS location issue (allowing me to cancel my mobile tech visit). When threads come up relate to the GPS location I look at them and thus saw the results related to wheel config from people with the problem being resolved.It’s full nonsense.