Has anybody filled the gaps between glass panels and glass/roof with black silicon?

[JCtx]

Hey gang, I installed on my 2021 one of those rubber gaskets on the front roof glass panel about a year ago, to mostly hide the ugly gap, since it didn't reduce wind noise at all. But just noticed the other day that the damn thing went into the adhesive, making like a 3-4" triangle at the right rear corner. I pulled it out, and removed the thing, but I'm afraid if it rains, water might get in the car thru that gap. I also want to cover that ugly gap anyway, and possible reduce wind noise with the silicon. Pay close attention to the picture attached, so you can see where the gasket ate into the glass adhesive (hope you can see that).

Finally, I was disappointed by the cheap adhesive Tesla uses for the panels; it should be hard/strong enough to withstand the slight tension on that gasket, but I could be wrong. It probably happened last summer, since it gets quite hot here in TX, although that car hardly gets used, and it's sitting inside the garage most of the time. At any rate, I don't think it's really a defect, since it was caused by an aftermarket part, so don't plan to call Tesla (hey, I'm an honest guy ). All comments and suggestions welcome. Thank you.

 

[cfbackrow]

i'm looking at options at filling in the gap on the roof and A pillors. I have horrible wind noise that blue painters tape on the A pillors/windshield cut by 50-60% but not sure what to do. I'm going to drop by a glass/windshield company in the next few days and see what they say. I'll update you if I get news

 

[KenC]

Hey gang, I installed on my 2021 one of those rubber gaskets on the front roof glass panel about a year ago, to mostly hide the ugly gap, since it didn't reduce wind noise at all. But just noticed the other day that the damn thing went into the adhesive, making like a 3-4" triangle at the right rear corner. I pulled it out, and removed the thing, but I'm afraid if it rains, water might get in the car thru that gap. I also want to cover that ugly gap anyway, and possible reduce wind noise with the silicon. Pay close attention to the picture attached, so you can see where the gasket ate into the glass adhesive (hope you can see that).

Finally, I was disappointed by the cheap adhesive Tesla uses for the panels; it should be hard/strong enough to withstand the slight tension on that gasket, but I could be wrong. It probably happened last summer, since it gets quite hot here in TX, although that car hardly gets used, and it's sitting inside the garage most of the time. At any rate, I don't think it's really a defect, since it was caused by an aftermarket part, so don't plan to call Tesla (hey, I'm an honest guy ). All comments and suggestions welcome. Thank you.

I had that rubber tube. It doesn't work. I bought molding which I put on the gap, front windshield A-pillars all the way back to the trunk area. And, across the windshield and roof, to fill the space, as I suspected they were creating noise. Don't know if it helps, but I think it does.

Recently, I added a Z-strip, to the driver's side A-pillar, to prevent the windshield washer fluid from dripping onto the side window. Seems to work as well. Here's a pic with a bit of the rubber moulding on the A-pillar, and me test-fitting the Z-strip:

 

[cfbackrow]

can you link the molding and Z strip and what you did to keep it attached?

 

[android04]

I have also thought about filling in the gaps between the windshield, roof glass, and rear glass with the body panels with black silicone. But I decided not to because it might make future replacement of the glass very difficult and it might be hard to get a smooth bead of the silicone that doesn't get all over the place and varies in thickness (one of those silicone caulk aides would help).

As for concern that the rubber tube would pull on the seals and cause water to get in, I kind of shared the same at one point. I used the rubber tube for about 1.5 years to help with wind noise and was concerned about a few spots where it seemed to pull on the rubber seals. But I never had any issues because the glad is actually glued into the car all the way around and the rubber seal is there to hide the glue and help with alignment. So unless there were an actual defect where the glue was not applied properly all the way around, you will not have any leaks.

 

[JCtx]

I'm going to drop by a glass/windshield company in the next few days and see what they say. I'll update you if I get news

Awesome. And yes, please post what they tell you. Hopefully something we can all do . Thank you.

I bought molding which I put on the gap, front windshield A-pillars all the way back to the trunk area. And, across the windshield and roof, to fill the space, as I suspected they were creating noise. Don't know if it helps, but I think it does.

Hey Ken, can you please post exactly you did with the molding, including what you bought (a link would be nice), how you glued it, and any other prep/tips needed? And how about some pics to see what it looks like? Thank you.

As far as the 'Z' strip, does it protrude out of the surface? If it does, I wouldn't consider it myself, to be honest. The good news is I live with desert all around, and hardly see any rain, even when traveling. And don't remember using washer fluid at least in the last 2 decades. Ha ha. So not an issue for me.

I have also thought about filling in the gaps between the windshield, roof glass, and rear glass with the body panels with black silicone. But I decided not to because it might make future replacement of the glass very difficult and it might be hard to get a smooth bead of the silicone that doesn't get all over the place and varies in thickness (one of those silicone caulk aides would help).

I have the same concerns, but let me give you the reasons why I'm considering it. Yes, glass replacement would be more difficult for sure, BUT here's my take, so you guys can comment on that. First of all, silicone is flexible (unlike epoxy, which would be an absolute no-no), so it can be removed. And it'd solve basically all problems we're looking at solving: the gap, wind noise, and possible water intrusion in the future, as rubber gets old. Then, silicone can be removed. Or in our case, CUT. The only place where it would NOT be advisable to do that is next to the paint, for obvious reasons. Therefore, I'd only put silicone on the roof panels, since it'd be a very rare event if that happens. However, that cannot be said of the windshield, so I would not put silicone on the A pillars. But I would put it between windshield and glass panel. Just took a close look at it, and the windshield seems to have like a rubber 'lip', just like the glass panels as well. But it's the windshield that has that lip against the glass panel, so cutting the silicone right next to the glass panel would allow it to lift right up. And I'd do that myself, if my car ever needs glass replacement (which is unfortunately likely where I live). I'd look for another alternative to stuff between windshield and A pillar, since that gap not only looks bad, but I'm sure it's the source of quite a bit of wind noise as well.

Now, on the application. I'd start with taping both surfaces perfectly first, since it's almost impossible to avoid smearing silicone on top of the surfaces (probably both). And we all know how hard is to work and remove excess silicone. But after that, I honestly don't know which tool to use to smooth it out for a nice bead. I'm on the anal side, so I'm almost sure I'd be disappointed at the outcome (ha ha), but I don't want it to look horrible. So was selfishly hoping to learn from somebody else first. Ha ha. But apparently that won't be the case, so I'm open to all other easier implementations . My main goal is to make those ugly gaps look better, and seal the area of concern as well.

Finally, I'd like to see a broken roof glass that was replaced, to see where exactly the hard adhesive was placed. I just looked at the glass panel again, and the translucid part of the panel is deeper than where the rubber gasket penetrated, but it still penetrated pretty deeply, as seen on the picture I posted. At least I feel better that water intrusion might not be present, but I'm not at ease yet, until I can see where water there would flow out of the cabin. Thank you guys for your comments. Hopefully more will come, and more details about possible fixes . Have a great day.

 

[f308gt4]

Another alternative I’ve been thinking about: what if you get a thicker rubber gasket (in other words, similar to the stuff they sell now, but bigger diameter), and simply glue it in using silicone glue. No stretch, and might work better. You would have a seam where the two ends meet, but I bet it could be done so that it’s not too visible. It might fit better, and because it’s glued in, would hold. Silicone glue is not A super strong adhesive, so if needed, the gasket could be easily removed.

 

[heavyD]

I may be worried about water drainage issues and water getting trapped if things aren't done perfectly.

 

[KenC]

Okay, here's the link to the rubber stripping that I used on the A-pillars all the way back to the trunk. And, across the two roof seams. Measure how much you need, as you probably need more than 16ft.
Amazon.com

And, here's the link to the z-strip. It's not special, but it was cheap, so you can use some other z-strip:
Amazon.com

If you don't have issues with windshield washer fluid on your driver side window, then you don't need the z-strip. First 3 images are of the rubber moulding covering up the seams from A-pillar back and across the roof.

I used alcohol to clean the glass. Then, I use 3M adhesion promotor to make sure the 3M tape on the moulding sticks. It's worked since September, 6 months ago.

This last image is of an idea I had recently as a way to eliminate all the washer fluid dripping onto the driver's side window. Since mud season was coming, when you're constantly washing your windows here, I though I'd try the z-strip. It has a little lip, creating a channel that moves the washer fluid back to the back of the car.

 

[JCtx]

Thank you very much for posting those pictures. It'd have been better if the stripping was like a 'T', to center itself better, and also it'd hold better as well over time, but it's not bad. If I use that, I'd still like to silicon where the stupid rubber ate the gasket, just in case, but need to find black silicone first. At least this option is viable, so if nothing better pops up, I might go with that, especially since it's cheap enough, and easy to remove. It doesn't look good at the bottom of the windshield, but if cut there, might look worse, no? Ha ha.

 

[android04]

Thank you very much for posting those pictures. It'd have been better if the stripping was like a 'T', to center itself better, and also it'd hold better as well over time, but it's not bad. If I use that, I'd still like to silicon where the stupid rubber ate the gasket, just in case, but need to find black silicone first. At least this option is viable, so if nothing better pops up, I might go with that, especially since it's cheap enough, and easy to remove. It doesn't look good at the bottom of the windshield, but if cut there, might look worse, no? Ha ha.

You can find black silicone at auto parts store -- Black RTV Sealant. I used that like 3 years ago to seal the rubber gasket on my passenger side mirror triangle where it mounts to the door. Still holding and blends in with the black plastic and rubber.

 

[cfbackrow]

so latest update...I was a private auto garage for a different issue..they specialize in EV cars..I just casually mentioned my noise and the general area it was coming from...in less than 2 minutes he found the issue...(which pisses me off since Tesla looked at it 3 times)...My top passenger corner of the windshield wasn't glued in at all...I put a work order in with Tesla for next week...they quoted me $890 but it better be covered by warranty...the car is 6 weeks old .

 

[JCtx]

Hey gang. I couldn't find black silicon (100%), but found black caulking (DAP, I think). That should work for a while, and it's much easier to remove than silicon, if needed, correct? And also much easier to work on and clean up (excess), if needed. Any thoughts on that? That stuff is in the 'kitchen and bath' section at Lowe's/Home Depot, and it says it's for both indoor and outdoor, and waterproof. The good news is my car is garaged most of the time, and we're not going to travel on it anymore, so even that thing should last for a long time. All comments welcome. Thank you.

Hey, a big favor: Where the hell are the threads saved when you click on 'WATCH' at the top right corner? For the life of me, couldn't find them anywhere. Had to get to this thread by searching my own threads, but others that I've watched that I didn't start, no way to find them. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you .

 

[Transformer]

Where the hell are the threads saved when you click on 'WATCH' at the top right corner?

Hover the mouse over the red "Community ↓" in the page's top bar. In the pop-up menu, there's a "Watched > Watched threads" entry. (It took me a while to find it!)

 

[JCtx]

Oh man; there's no freaking way I'd had ever find that by myself. Ha ha. Thank you very much for that great help .

 

[Lindenwood]

Hey gang. I couldn't find black silicon (100%), but found black caulking (DAP, I think). That should work for a while, and it's much easier to remove than silicon, if needed, correct? And also much easier to work on and clean up (excess), if needed. Any thoughts on that? That stuff is in the 'kitchen and bath' section at Lowe's/Home Depot, and it says it's for both indoor and outdoor, and waterproof. The good news is my car is garaged most of the time, and we're not going to travel on it anymore, so even that thing should last for a long time. All comments welcome. Thank you.

Hey, a big favor: Where the hell are the threads saved when you click on 'WATCH' at the top right corner? For the life of me, couldn't find them anywhere. Had to get to this thread by searching my own threads, but others that I've watched that I didn't start, no way to find them. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you .

Funny, that is actually what I was thinking of using since it is smoother to apply and manipulate than silicone, in my experience.

 

[buckets0fun]

Okay, here's the link to the rubber stripping that I used on the A-pillars all the way back to the trunk. And, across the two roof seams. Measure how much you need, as you probably need more than 16ft.
Amazon.com

And, here's the link to the z-strip. It's not special, but it was cheap, so you can use some other z-strip:
Amazon.com

If you don't have issues with windshield washer fluid on your driver side window, then you don't need the z-strip. First 3 images are of the rubber moulding covering up the seams from A-pillar back and across the roof.

I used alcohol to clean the glass. Then, I use 3M adhesion promotor to make sure the 3M tape on the moulding sticks. It's worked since September, 6 months ago.
View attachment 784661
View attachment 784662
View attachment 784663
This last image is of an idea I had recently as a way to eliminate all the washer fluid dripping onto the driver's side window. Since mud season was coming, when you're constantly washing your windows here, I though I'd try the z-strip. It has a little lip, creating a channel that moves the washer fluid back to the back of the car.
View attachment 784664

I’d be more concerned with the rust developing on your Apillar to fenders, mostly on the pass side, but also on the driver side.

 

[JCtx]

Funny, that is actually what I was thinking of using since it is smoother to apply and manipulate than silicone, in my experience.

Hey, do you want to do it first? Ha ha. I'm not sure where to use it, but will for sure put some where that stupid O-ring thing went into the seal. But I'm inclined to do the job 'right', meaning between windshield and middle roof panel, between middle and rear glass panels, and on the sides, from top of windshield until the roof painted pillar meets the trunk. So basically everywhere, except the sides of the windshield & A-pillars, and the visible part of the rear glass when trunk is opened (don't see any need there). Thoughts? And application tips?

 

[Lindenwood]

Hey, do you want to do it first? Ha ha. I'm not sure where to use it, but will for sure put some where that stupid O-ring thing went into the seal. But I'm inclined to do the job 'right', meaning between windshield and middle roof panel, between middle and rear glass panels, and on the sides, from top of windshield until the roof painted pillar meets the trunk. So basically everywhere, except the sides of the windshield & A-pillars, and the visible part of the rear glass when trunk is opened (don't see any need there). Thoughts? And application tips?

I am seriously thinking about it!

I would put masking tape along each side of the gap, close enough that I could smooth the caulk bead flush with the surface and peel up the tape to remove any smears.

Various low-cost caulking tools (like below) or even a simple plastic putty knife would do the job.

King&Charles Caulking Tool, Caulk Remover& Glass Glue Angle Scraper, 3 in 1 Silicone Caulking Tool Kit - Caulk Removal Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08SMDHQ8H/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_K87VCT3VPNPDBDF6S9FX

 

[JCtx]

Hey, that tool looks awesome; thank you very much. I'll buy it for sure. So which of the many appendages would you use??? I guess it might be better to leave a slight curved indentation (vs flat), at least between the glass panels, where the gaps are small. But the gaps between glass panels and painted surfaces are much larger, so maybe flat there? By the way, where in NM do you live? I live in El Paso, so if you live in Las Cruces (or closer), by any chance, we could do a 'caulking party'. Ha ha. Thanks again for your help. I think this would be the best solution by far. I don't want to do the side of the windshield, because it's very possible to need a new one in the future, so just the top with silicon would make it much easier to remove. Plus I'd probably use a blade to cut it right next to the windshield glass, leaving the silicon as a guide to position the new windshield exactly where the factory one was, no? So when are you thinking of doing this?