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Has anyone installed the Blackvue 650 in the new 2016 model S?

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I can't seem to figure out how to gain access to the plastic hub behind the rearview mirror. There is a plastic piece below the autopilot camera housing that comes off into two pieces easy enough, but the main housing seems to be more difficult. I can pry a little on it and have found seems where it is held together, but I don't want to pry too hard and break my brand new car. I have a 75kwh 2016 Model S. Any help would be appreciated.

Also, final note: does anyone know if I can wire directly into the rearview power to the Blackvue, or do I need to use the magic pro and the cigaret adapter?

Thanks,
 
I can't seem to figure out how to gain access to the plastic hub behind the rearview mirror. There is a plastic piece below the autopilot camera housing that comes off into two pieces easy enough, but the main housing seems to be more difficult. I can pry a little on it and have found seems where it is held together, but I don't want to pry too hard and break my brand new car. I have a 75kwh 2016 Model S. Any help would be appreciated.

Also, final note: does anyone know if I can wire directly into the rearview power to the Blackvue, or do I need to use the magic pro and the cigaret adapter?

Thanks,
There are several threads on installation of the Blackvue 650s 2 ch camera. Google teslarati and blackvue install, and you will get some instructions on how to install. I personally used the odb-ii to have an always on camera that does not require me to tap the fuse box or use the cig lighter. I thought about doing the mic tap, as many others have, but it was so easy to route the cables along the headliner, that I found no reason to struggle getting the wire through the rearview mirror housing. It turned out perfectly, works as expected and all wires are hidden for a clean install (except for a small amt of slack that leads to the camera unit itself (this is unavoidable)
 
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I did this install on my 2016 S using the mic tap. It's still done the same way as on previous vehicles. To get the wire through, I used the hook end of a wire coat hanger, fed it between the windshield and the headliner, then pulled the power cord back through. Hope this helps.
 
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I have a Blackvue DR650-2CH that I am looking to install myself. I had originally thought I would run it down the door frame and utilize the OBDII connector. After further consideration, I changed my mind to utilize the the microphone tap. I purchased a 15ft car charger cable, so I did not splice through the original. I also purchased the StarTech.com FAN4EXT12 cable, which plugs right into the port in the microphone area. I am looking to make it as easy to return to factory as possible. The front installation seems like it should be fairly easy. It is the cable to the back that looks like it could be more difficult.

KmanAuto has a video on Youtube
in which he removes the mirror mounting to install a Dashcam that just clips in. It made it appear that you could just run the cables through the existing mount. Unfortunately, I haven't had time to install my camera yet, but I plan on getting to it this weekend.
 
There are several threads on installation of the Blackvue 650s 2 ch camera. Google teslarati and blackvue install, and you will get some instructions on how to install. I personally used the odb-ii to have an always on camera that does not require me to tap the fuse box or use the cig lighter. I thought about doing the mic tap, as many others have, but it was so easy to route the cables along the headliner, that I found no reason to struggle getting the wire through the rearview mirror housing. It turned out perfectly, works as expected and all wires are hidden for a clean install (except for a small amt of slack that leads to the camera unit itself (this is unavoidable)

do you have the part number or link for what you used to tie into the obd-ii? or did you do what teslarati mentioned about splicing a obd connector with a 12V female plug? im interested in going this route for constant power.
 
do you have the part number or link for what you used to tie into the obd-ii? or did you do what teslarati mentioned about splicing a obd connector with a 12V female plug? im interested in going this route for constant power.
I bought this OBD-II connector and this cig light adapter. I cut the cord on both, used a wire cutter to expose the wires on each end of the cut portion and then wrapped them around each other (black to black, red to red). I have a soldering tool, so I added a little solder to bind the wires together and then wrapped electrical tape around each part to insulate. If you wrap the exposed wires together well enough and just do electrical tape, I am sure it would work just fine. There is no need to solder if you don't have it, but it does provide for a more secure connection. However, since the cables are not under stress (they will literally just be sitting behind the panel in the foot well), I think tape will be enough. I then tucked the wires along the mirror housing, up towards the windshield trim, to the door trim and all the way to the back. I "jumped the gap" to the hatch in the rear (so when I open the hatch, I can actually see a bit of wire exposed, but it is concealed when closed) and ran the cable along the inside of the rear hatch trim. The trim pops off really easily. Just apply steady constant pressure. It will give. Same goes for the trim along the lower driver door and by the obd-ii port.
 
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do you have the part number or link for what you used to tie into the obd-ii? or did you do what teslarati mentioned about splicing a obd connector with a 12V female plug? im interested in going this route for constant power.
There's a part on Amazon that you can use to connect to the mic power. It was only a few bucks. I'll see if I can find the link.
 
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I bought this OBD-II connector and this cig light adapter. I cut the cord on both, used a wire cutter to expose the wires on each end of the cut portion and then wrapped them around each other (black to black, red to red). I have a soldering tool, so I added a little solder to bind the wires together and then wrapped electrical tape around each part to insulate. If you wrap the exposed wires together well enough and just do electrical tape, I am sure it would work just fine. There is no need to solder if you don't have it, but it does provide for a more secure connection. However, since the cables are not under stress (they will literally just be sitting behind the panel in the foot well), I think tape will be enough. I then tucked the wires along the mirror housing, up towards the windshield trim, to the door trim and all the way to the back. I "jumped the gap" to the hatch in the rear (so when I open the hatch, I can actually see a bit of wire exposed, but it is concealed when closed) and ran the cable along the inside of the rear hatch trim. The trim pops off really easily. Just apply steady constant pressure. It will give. Same goes for the trim along the lower driver door and by the obd-ii port.

do you leave it plugged in all the time? do you notice any significant power loss leaving in on all day?
 
do you leave it plugged in all the time? do you notice any significant power loss leaving in on all day?
it is ALWAYS on. All day, all night. I never unplug it. I check the camera via app occasionally. I also have a wifi hotspot plugged into one of the usb ports that acts as the cloud server for the camera. I assume that it is also draining power from the car, but again, nothing of concern. The drain is so minimal, I can't even quantify it. I have left my car unplugged for a couple of days and noticed minimal drop in battery (maybe 1-2% per day, which I assume is about average without a camera). You DO NOT need the magic pro. I should note that the camera is not only always on, but it is always recording. The park mode is sooooooo sensitive it essentially is recording if the wind blows over the car. it's sort of silly, but the app will differentiate bw an "event" vs "normal" parking mode. IN other words, if someone hits your car and it records vs just motion in front of the camera.
 
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oh, and do yourself a favor . . . . get this SD card. It's cheaper then the blackvue and it def works. I went through 3 different SD cards and spent way more then I needed in an attempt to make the camera work as intended. Blackvue confirmed that that particular card has been tested and is "approved" and sure enough, it works.
 
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I got out of work early, and installed the front camera using the mic wiring. I used the StarTech FAN4EXT12 cable
from Amazon. I also ordered a power cable so as to not destroy the original. I cut the ends of the connector off and soldered it directly to to the FAN4EXT12 cable. The mic wiring in my car is Grey 12V, Green 10V, and Black is ground.

I worked the panel from the headliner, and it pulled downward. It did require some force to get the clips to release. It is held up by plastic clips. It is fairly strong. I had no issues removing and reattaching. In fact, I did it several times trying to get the wires tucked up underneath. In hindsight, you only need to get the back clips out, as the wire doesn't really have anywhere to go underneath. It will be much easier to put back together if you don't remove everything. You only need enough to get the cable through.
IMG_8683.JPG

I ended up running the wires on the outside of it. I would have been happier to hide them a bit more, but I am very pleased with the outcome.
IMG_8689.JPG
 
I got out of work early, and installed the front camera using the mic wiring. I used the StarTech FAN4EXT12 cable
from Amazon. I also ordered a power cable so as to not destroy the original. I cut the ends of the connector off and soldered it directly to to the FAN4EXT12 cable. The mic wiring in my car is Grey 12V, Green 10V, and Black is ground.

I worked the panel from the headliner, and it pulled downward. It did require some force to get the clips to release. It is held up by plastic clips. It is fairly strong. I had no issues removing and reattaching. In fact, I did it several times trying to get the wires tucked up underneath. In hindsight, you only need to get the back clips out, as the wire doesn't really have anywhere to go underneath. It will be much easier to put back together if you don't remove everything. You only need enough to get the cable through.
View attachment 197647

I ended up running the wires on the outside of it. I would have been happier to hide them a bit more, but I am very pleased with the outcome.
View attachment 197648

From your description, I understand that one end of the FAN4EXT12 cable is soldered to the Blackvue power plug but where does the other end go? Is there spare pins on the mic wiring? Did you solder that end too?

EDIT: Meant to say that I have a Europe car so I have read this might not be the case for me
 
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