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Improve the insulation and air leakage in your home and then use the excess kWh in heat pumps during the day for hot water and air heating. You'll get ~ 4x more heat for your PV generated energy.
Aim for 1.20x inverter spec.
Why are we incentivizing customers to under-build?
Depends on the rules in your state. In AL, for grid-tied solar you have to pay a "reserve capacity fee" of $5 per month per inverter nameplate kw. So, a 10 kw solar system costs you $50 per month just to be connected, wiping out most of your savings (in my case, all of my savings, since the "10 kw inverter" produces at most 8 kw, and that for about 20 minutes per day). So be aware of your state's rules, as you might want to go with a smaller system if you have the case, as I do, where customers with installed solar subsidize the cost of the grid for non-solar users.Sorry to take this slightly off-topic, but the original question brings up another interesting one.
When are we going to stop pricing residential installs on a "per kW installed" basis? The hardware and installation costs barely go up when you scope a 6kW vs an 8kW array on the same roof since panels cost next to nothing. Why are we incentivizing customers to under-build?
Impossible to say with the information provided. I usually try to get the biggest system the roof can support.
How many kWh do you use annually? How many miles do you drive?
Elon is on the line, ready to sell you a battery setup.You may laugh but we need to be wary and vigilant of the day some politician may say we are not entitled to use the energy the sun provides to our panels but Edison is. Then, not only will you pay for your system; you'll pay Edison for all the power you generate......
Depends on the rules in your state. In AL, for grid-tied solar you have to pay a "reserve capacity fee" of $5 per month per inverter nameplate kw. So, a 10 kw solar system costs you $50 per month just to be connected, wiping out most of your savings (in my case, all of my savings, since the "10 kw inverter" produces at most 8 kw, and that for about 20 minutes per day). So be aware of your state's rules, as you might want to go with a smaller system if you have the case, as I do, where customers with installed solar subsidize the cost of the grid for non-solar users.
Elon is on the line, ready to sell you a battery setup.
How Big a solar system to get?
The so-called islanding you are thinking of takes PV offline when the grid is down so that utility workers are protected from energized lines they presumed were safe. Batteries are local to the home and are not affected by a down grid.I might be wrong but I think unless you're totally off the grid, the utility grid is built to prevent you from running on battery power unless the grid is down. Am I right or wrong? Don't forget, even when you have solar, you are always using power from the grid, even during a midsummer's day when your system is producing peak power output - right?
The so-called islanding you are thinking of takes PV offline when the grid is down so that utility workers are protected from energized lines they presumed were safe. Batteries are local to the home and are not affected by a down grid.
Not everyone is going to have a roof with appropriate exposure. Shouldn't we be building out infrastructure that fits our reality just 5-10 years down the line?The OP's roof may support a system far larger than he needs, so why over-build and over-spend?
Utilities being allowed to rip people off will be going away in short order. In an open distributed market not long from now, you'll want as much production capability as possible. Especially when storage costs next to nothing 5 years from now. People like us may be willing to upgrade in a few years, but I think most consumers want to install once.I'm not a proponent of giving away my clean electricity to Edison for peanuts, while they sell it to my neighbor that has a pool pump running 24 hours a day at 10-15 times what they paid me.
Not really sure but fwiwAre you sure? If the grid is up, you're always getting your power from the utility night or day. Are you telling me that at night or otherwise, I can choose to draw my power from a Powerwall 2.0 and circumvent the utility? I know it's bi-directional but I didn't think you could invoke it at will. What's the "black box" that disconnects the utility from your main panel and allows one to use batteries when the grid is up?
OK. In this morning. Tesla discontinues DC version of Powerwall 2 in Europe/APAC, only available in America and AC everywhere else . The DC version will be available in the US for use with specific Solaredge inverters. The DC version will not be available outside the US. To the best of my knowledge: The DC version is the one without the inverter, and allows for "off-grid" use during a power outage when mated with the proper inverter. The AC version has the integrated inverter, making it less expensive for those installing solar for the first time, but when used in a grid-tied configuration, will not allow the owner to use the battery power during a power outage. My personal system will be grid-tied, as I live in a residential area,...but 99% of the time I will be using my own power as if I were "off grid". I will have an auto-start natural gas generator that will automatically charge the battery in the event that I run the battery down when there isn't enough power coming from the PV panels. More to follow.
Not everyone is going to have a roof with appropriate exposure. Shouldn't we be building out infrastructure that fits our reality just 5-10 years down the line?
Utilities being allowed to rip people off will be going away in short order.