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A WC can be setup for anything from a 15amp circuit to a 60 amp circuit.WC is 48A, not 40A.
Yeah but if you're running new wiring it's kind of dumb to run anything except 48A capable wiring. The capabilities to go down to 15A are so you can reuse existing wiring and not pay labor costs for installing new wiring.A WC can be setup for anything from a 15amp circuit to a 60 amp circuit.
From what the OP has said I’ll bet a load calculation is not a consideration at this timeGenerally I would agree. But if a load calculation says that 40A is the maximum that the panel can currently handle, then....
Then run 48A capable wiring, use a 40A breaker, and set the WC for 40A, so that when the panel is upgraded, you switch the breaker and reconfigure the WC and do not need to pull wiring out of the wall.Generally I would agree. But if a load calculation says that 40A is the maximum that the panel can currently handle, then....
That would be my guess. A lot of people might not know exactly what the capabilities of the WC are.From what the OP has said I’ll bet a load calculation is not a consideration at this time
Yeah but if you're running new wiring it's kind of dumb to run anything except 48A capable wiring.
… if you’re cool with 40 amp max charging and don’t mind wasting money on 150 feet of an extra 6 awg conductor you’ll never use.
This is a good consideration for future proofing. If you ever wanted to convert that line to a subpanel running the extra wire now would be a good investment.True. Not an electrician. When I ran 6/3 it went to a subpanel where I also needed 120v so that was my point of reference.
Pure 240v applications like an EVSE don’t need a neutral wire, just two hots and a ground.Please excuse my ignorance. What's the difference between 6/2 vs 6/3 as far as using it to charge the EV? I know 1 has an extra wire why would i not need that wire for this application?
Yes, but what's the cost of labor to install the wiring? Whether you're paying an electrician to do it or doing it yourself isn't really relevant; it's a high cost either way. I insulated the recirculation loop in my crawlspace and I did it with 1" think polystyrene foam. Sure, it was more expensive than the 1/2" polystyrene foam insulation they were selling at Lowe's or Home Depot by maybe $50-100 or so but given how much I hate going down into the crawlspace I'd rather just use the best stuff I can get and never have to go down there again for the same job. If I paid a plumber to do it, they were going to charge me $200 just to enter the crawlspace plus $150-200 an hour. You think it's worth saving $50-100 in materials costs when labor is easily 5 times that amount or more? This is basically the same scenario I faced with my service line and main panel upgrade. I wasn't so concerned about paying an extra $2-4k to go to 400A because just getting the trenching company back out to put in a new conduit, if that's what is required to upgrade from 200A to 400A in the future, would cost another $7500.When thinking about something like this it is always good to get the whole picture, and there are many ways to look at this.
If there is any possibility that the power you run 150' might be used for something else in the future, then wire added for a neutral or oversizing the wire might be a good idea. The difference between 6/2 and 6/3 is almost $200 at this length so not insignificant.
Typically once you get to #4 then we often start using SER and aluminum wire. However the HPWC is not rated for aluminum wire. Technically #4 Cu Romex is available but it is not super common.Do they make 4/2? Or if one does romex and want 4 ga is the only option to include the neutral? Looking for cheapest safe wiring for in attic & wall.