Installing NEMA 14-50...

[LCR1]

The 100 amp breaker in that panel feeds a sub panel in the garage.

Then where does the other 100Amp go to and how do you turn it off?

 

[BrettS]

Then where does the other 100Amp go to and how do you turn it off?

This is why I questioned whether he even had 200 amp service to begin with. There is no other panel and the ‘other 100 amps’ is just not used.

 

[Cosmacelf]

Then where does the other 100Amp go to and how do you turn it off?

What "other" 100A breaker? I only see one in the OP pictures.

This is why I questioned whether he even had 200 amp service to begin with. There is no other panel and the ‘other 100 amps’ is just not used.

All the electricians seem to have fled this thread, and I am not one, so this is just my guess. This main panel (as shown in the pictures) does not have a single main breaker disconnect. Instead it has multiple breakers that must all be flipped off to turn off all power to the house. So in the original,picture, you’d have to flip off the 100A, 50A and 15 A breakers to turn off all the power. The panel can still be rated for 200A and likewise the meter and feed.

 

[brkaus]

All the electricians seem to have fled this thread, and I am not one, so this is just my guess. This main panel (as shown in the pictures) does not have a single main breaker disconnect. Instead it has multiple breakers that must all be flipped off to turn off all power to the house. So in the original,picture, you’d have to flip off the 100A, 50A and 15 A breakers to turn off all the power. The panel can still be rated for 200A and likewise the meter and feed.

I tend to agree with this statement, but would have to read the label on the panel to be sure.

I don't think there is anything else to see here... I'm abandoning as well...

 

[LCR1]

This is why I questioned whether he even had 200 amp service to begin with. There is no other panel and the ‘other 100 amps’ is just not used.

There is another panel inside the garage which is what that 100A breaker feeds. The 50 and 15 on the bottom are for the AC and AC signaling. So by shutting off the 100A shown you're shutting off everything in the house.

 

[BrettS]

There is another panel inside the garage which is what that 100A breaker feeds. The 50 and 15 on the bottom are for the AC and AC signaling. So by shutting off the 100A shown you're shutting off everything in the house.

Everything except the AC and AC signaling (whatever that is) and now, the new HPWC and the 14-50 outlet. So to shut off all the power you now need to flip 5 breakers.

 

[kaffine]

It is a meter main panel with multiple feeds. Not uncommon especially with larger services. Most 400 amp panels are setup that way where there are 2) 200 amp breakers and the ability to have 1 or 2 additional breakers. Some times there is a breaker panel as part but sometimes it just feeds other sub-panels.

The additional breaker spaces are typically used for large loads such as the HVAC or for solar installs. Since it isn't uncommon for the large load to be near the panel and that allows the sub-panel and wire to be sized smaller.

So it is likely the meter socket and bus bars are rated for 200 amp. They only needed a 100 amp sub-panel so they put a 100 amp breaker to feed it.

 

[fixingstill]

I am back.
Let me clarify. I also have a panel in the garage. I think it is called "main lug". The 100A breaker on the panel outside runs to and protects this main lug.
Yes, PGE gives me 200A. So, the panel outside (that has the meter) is considered the "main" panel. It branches out 100A to the main lug, 50A to the AC (I have 2 condensing units - one upstairs, one downstairs), and now I just added two 50A circuits on this main panel (code compliant or not, just make sense to me to tap on this main panel).

The main lug doesn't have a main breaker (hence it is called main lug?)
My solar panel system is also run to this main lug.

 

[fixingstill]

It is a meter main panel with multiple feeds. Not uncommon especially with larger services. Most 400 amp panels are setup that way where there are 2) 200 amp breakers and the ability to have 1 or 2 additional breakers. Some times there is a breaker panel as part but sometimes it just feeds other sub-panels.

The additional breaker spaces are typically used for large loads such as the HVAC or for solar installs. Since it isn't uncommon for the large load to be near the panel and that allows the sub-panel and wire to be sized smaller.

So it is likely the meter socket and bus bars are rated for 200 amp. They only needed a 100 amp sub-panel so they put a 100 amp breaker to feed it.

YOU GOT IT - FINALLY!
I don't see a 200A breaker. This is a locked compartment right under the meter. Maybe it has a breaker inside but it is locked by PGE.

 

[kaffine]

No there wont be a breaker under the locked cover. It is just the meter socket and bus are rated at 200amp. Which now raises another question and I don't have an answer for is it allowed to have more than 200 amps of breakers off of that panel? Normally the breakers in a panel can exceed the panel rating because there is a main breaker protecting the bus and feeder wires. With this setup there is no single main breaker so you could pull more than 200 amps without tripping any breakers causing the bus to be overloaded.

 

[fixingstill]

I would have done it differently (or hired a pro) if I knew more but nothing I can/will change now.
I sure hope this can show people what to do and not do when they are doing their DIY project.
I have changed the 2 breakers to GFCI and fixed up the knockout issue. Also painted the pipes and added a backing board for the cable...

Thanks for all the comments. I am done with this for now.

 

[Cosmacelf]

Nice fixes. For future reference in case anyone wonders about this, hardwired EVSEs like the HPWC don’t need a GFCI breaker since they have a built in GFCI. No harm in adding an extra one though.

 

[mongo]

Nice fixes. For future reference in case anyone wonders about this, hardwired EVSEs like the HPWC don’t need a GFCI breaker since they have a built in GFCI. No harm in adding an extra one though.

Depending on the EMC/EMI filtering in the system, a normal GFCI may nuisance trip. Standard GFCI have a 5 mA max trip, EVSE integrated GFI/CCID can have up to a 20 mA limit (there are extra safeguards added related to the ground circuit).
Safety of Electric Vehicle Supply Equipment - IEEE Transportation Electrification Community

 

[AlanSqB]

Some EVSEs have been known to trip GFI breakers as they do their self-check. I don’t know if the wall connector is one that does, but if you start seeing that happen, you might want to replace with non-GFI.

Edit: @mongo said it better.

 

[kaffine]

Glad to see you got a bar holding the breakers in.

 

[hcsharp]

Nice fixes. For future reference in case anyone wonders about this, hardwired EVSEs like the HPWC don’t need a GFCI breaker since they have a built in GFCI. No harm in adding an extra one though.

Actually there is harm in installing an EVSE on a GFCI breaker. Two posts above have already said it so at the risk of repeating... A lot of cars require the full 20 ma of unbalanced current in order to start charging. Sometimes a Model S or X will require more than 5 ma which is what the breaker's trip point is. It might seem like everything is fine until one day you'll wake up and find out your car didn't charge. Tesla's installation instructions specifically state NOT to use a GFCI breaker.

 

[SMAlset]

Don't know about the OP's area, but in San Diego you can't have any of that stuff within 36" of the gas meter or it won't pass inspection, assuming you're going to have it inspected.

I'm in the Bay area and I recall our electrician making a similar comment. Our gas meter was on the outside garage wall too and this was taken into consideration as to how it would be laid out.